Import Tuna

Guys,

I bought a 98 coupe (Non-V) from one of our car auctions lately.
Engine was locked up (D16Y7)
I immediately began buying a CRV engine, a B16A head, etc etc.
I have YCP 11.6:1 pistons in the mail today. I will also install a set of cams and gears.
Of course I will do the old standard I-I-H-E.

Now I come to the ECU.
Please recommend engine management for me. The car is currently not VTEC wired. Ive been in car audio for over 25 years, so I'm not afraid of wiring a solenoid.

The issue is WHICH COMPUTER?

Ive been reading about how the JDM ITR (P73) will not respond to the emissions testing in my county. This is a must have.

So, I look at the USDM ITR ECU (Also P73). The plugs are different. So, I look at the GSR ECU (P72). The plugs are the same.. But my car does not have all the butterfly actuators, etc.

So, what to do? Is there an OBD2a to OBD2B adapter? Do I run the USDM P72 or P73? Should I also buy a piggyback?

I want to know what is the CORRECT way. If an AEM EMS-4 is what I need behind a stock ECU, then it is what it is and I have to save up for a little bit.
Please make good suggestions.

My Emissions test involves plugging into the OBD port scanning for any codes pending or hardset. They check for all readiness tests to be complete.
Then they test the vacuum on the tank and gas cap.

Long Time Veterans, I am appealing to you guys. If the new guys have decent input fire away, but I would like to hear from the seasoned vets on this one..

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

AEM will still not allow you to pass an OBD2 inspection. Your only option, if that is the route you need to go, is to run whatever you can get away with (with no MILs) to get tested, and then run your system of choice the rest of the time.

VegasInvasion

Pre-2004 cars do not require OBD2 connectivity in most states, not sure about other countries, but at least where I live even if their scan tools can't connect to pre-2004 vehicles they'll still pass the car if smog test checks out.

The AEM EMS does have CANbus support, if wired correctly it should allow OEM connectivity, but that's overkill for your setup.

Your car is OBD2A (96-98). If you need OBD2 at all times, I would suggest a USDM P2T (B16 Si) ECU tuned with an AEM FIC piggyback.
OBD2A-2B jumper harnesses are available on the web if you happen to pick up an OBD2B ECU (99-00). A jumper harness is a great location to tap in a piggyback controller also.

The P73 will also work, but I think the P2T is closer to your engine needs so you'd save time tuning it.

If you only need OBD2 for emissions, well, only put it in for emissions, then use an OBD1 ECU to chip tune with. The P73 would be more likely to pass emissions I think.
Any Vtec OBD1 ECU will work, I recommend Neptune for OBD1 tuning. Cheaper than Hondata, does the same job. A little better and faster.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Hondata has a CAN-bus out nowadays too. You're 100% on your own in making something that will turn that into an OBD2 spoof of some kind, but it's doable. Illegal, but doable, with a microcontroller board and a CANbus interface chip.

Haltech has OBD2 capability now with its Elite series. You're in for a big spend and a lot of extra work by going with a full EMS over a stock ecu add-on board, but that comes with a ton of capability too (closed loop boost control? Advanced knock control? Yes please).

I'm halfway considering making the switch to Hondata (from NepTune) in the near future mostly because the hardware has really started to advance and the Moates stuff hasn't. More analogs, digital in, CAN out, COP capability etc. It's also been driving me nuts for years now that I can't copy NepTune tables into Excel, which keeps me from using (efficiently) some tools that I developed to help with the tuning process. I have to either manually type in tables or use some sort of OCR software to generate them in Excel and it's a huge waste of time. I've been a huge advocate of HR Tuning/Neptune for a while now, but the stagnation of the hardware/software is really making me want to jump ship.

The real debate is, if I'm going to go that far, do I just go ahead and make the jump all the way to an AEM or Haltech. AEM Series 2 doubles my entry price, and I feel like I can do 90% of what I want with the S300. I'm trying to pretend the Infinity doesn't even exist here, btw. I might consider something like that for the race car if it ever lives again. Haltech would likely quadruple that cost.

Moral of the story: Having an OBD2 output on you car can be done, but unless you are crafty will probably cost more than the car is worth.

Import Tuna

Thank you for your answer. Actually all you guys! I really appreciate you taking the time to answer. This certainly gives me some thinking points. I believe I will take your advice on the P2T and an FIC piggyback.

I can say this:
When I go to get the emissions test, the guy plugs his computer to it inside his can. I believe he will scan for codes, and then he will perform vacuum testing on the tank and gas cap.
It's for this reason that I prefer to have OBD2 full time.

Thank you again for your answers!

-S