MassScene

To start i have a jdm type-r tranny with no more than 3,000 miles that was Brand New outta the box. TRANNY IS MINT ZERO ISSUES.

I was originally running a exedy hyper single clutch. Excellent clutch just wanted something a little more powerfull to handle 320+whp All-motor with 24.5 slicks..etc.

The tranny honestly is the smoothest shifting trasmission ive ever driven and ive been in the honda game 10yrs. Perfectly shifting with the Exedy Single.

I purchased a ClutchMaster 725 series Twin Disc Branddd Newww. Had my mechanic do the install " EXTREMELY QUALIFIED GUY THAT HAS A 9.sec CAR AND HAS BEEN BUILDING HONDAS FOR OVER 10YRS AND HAS HIS OWN SHOP " not your mom and pop tranny place. We used ClutchMasters supplied throwout bearing. Every disc was put on the correct way. Everything was tq'd down correctly and locktite was used on the bolts. Everything went back together great / smooth. The same shifter cables were used " Mint" . Never even had to bleed the clutch slave because we took it right off the tranny with the line connected. So everythings back together and BEFORE we start the car we shift threw the gears and everythings smooth as butter as always. We start the car and try to go into 1st and its EXTREMELY ROUGH...so with the car on going into all the gears with the clutch PRESSED IN is extremely rough. Shut the car off shift threw the gears everythings smooth again. So the problem only happens while the car is on and the clutch is pressed in.

To eliminate things #1 i re-bled my clutch #2 i changed the clutch slave...No difference..#3 i changed the amount the clutch pushed " tried both ways less/more..no difference..#4 i re-bled the clutch again...no difference. The cables again are mint no issues before the clutch was changed. Clutch line is steel braided. NO fluid leaks whatsoever. Car is driveable and is a little better when driving it goes into gears a little smoother but its still rough and nothing like before the clutch was changed. Regardless going into 1st is the worst. I have no other ideas on what to change / look into. My mechanic has no other ideas besides its a flaw in the clutch. Now ive already paid for all the work to be done and i have a problem with a BRAND NEW $1350 clutch.

Need to know if anyone has run into this issue or has any other ideas. Thank You

YZFR6

You have a pedal stop? How ft lbs did you torque the pressure plate too?

hello1320

Unbelievable !!!

MassScene

I will check on the tq. my mechanic used. But i have a 6spd tranny and the tq. spec on the 5 spd/6spd are different as far as honda is concerned. But i know it was to the same specs that the exedy hyper single was to with zero issues.

JO TECH

That's 2 things

adjust of the clutch or
pressure plate are bad

good luck with that

0xenocron

...that he thought posting online was a better solution than contacting Clutchmasters directly or at least the authorized dealer he purchased from.

Unfortunately, no one is going to be able to really you out other than to tell you, "check this, inspect that" since they didnt do the install and they didnt get to look at the clutch before it was install (to see if there was a potential issue with the clutch before install)

MassScene

Listen the 1st thing i did was call clutchmaster. They listened to me then put me on hold for 10+ mins and wouldnt come back to the phone. I called again with no answer. So i figured id come here and talk to real honda guys like myself with experience. Looking to see if anyone has had similar issues and found results. But thanks guy

Divers

My bet... New pilot is sticking to the input shaft. Too tight or damaged during install and the pilot will keep the shaft spinning causing the shifts at idle to feel "rough" or "crunchy", but will feel better at higher rpms like driving around town.

Just a thought, obviously there are many possible causes to your problem.

acrite1999

had a issue like this before and ended up being the pressure plate was bad.

ashtons300zx

Im gonna also guess pilot bearing. I forget your guys' hondas use one. Some cars do some dont. Mine doesnt so that wouldnt even be in question.

But it does sound like a pilot bearing issues. I doubt the brand new pressure plate is bad.

When you depress the clutch can you hear the rattling of the disks? If so the pressure plate is doing its job and relieving complete pressure off the disks. Enough that you will hear the rattle. That would mean something else such as the pilot bearing is keeping the input shaft turning and when your going into gear the syncro puts enough pressure on the shaft to stop the turning of the shaft.

turbotypeR@SPEC

If you have someone look at the slave when you press the clutch in, how far does it move? The only thing I see you didn't mention was the Clutch master. Look at it from the inside and see if it looks wet. My guess is that it's bypassing fluid and not moving the slave enough to release the clutch. It could have been fine with the single disc because the pedal effort wasn't as high as the twin disc. If the master had any age and was borderline of working, the extra pedal effort could be doing it in. Just a thought. I've seen tons of cars with the same issue. BTW, make sure you install a pedla stop. It's super easy and you'll be glad you did.

trickeng

Pedal stop!!! Lift the pedal off the floor about 1/2" and try shifting, if no change go to 1".

EP3Moschini

My vote also goes to a pedal stop. . . it says right in the instructions to use a pedal stop.

BTW. . . 10+ min on hold? OMG thats like forever!! who cares, you just hung up on them? That wass stupid on your behalf, the person who answers the phone is not a mechanic or engineer, The guy you wanted to talk about might have been on a nother call or taking a ****. I hate when people have no sense of reality and expect everything in the universe to stop for them. Guess what, In real life these things happen all the time.

EP3Moschini

K-Series just use a bushing, no bearing

ashtons300zx

Like I said, wasnt sure.

Very well could be a master cylinder issue. Definitely need to look at how far the slave is pushing on the clutch fork. If its not moving much, definitely need a stronger or new master cylinder. I have a CC 7 1/4 twin disk which is basicly identical to the CM unit and uses the same PP if im not mistaken. I dont use a pedal stop on mine and have no issues. The clutch releases probably after about 2 inches of clutch travel as again you can hear the disks start to chatter while sitting stationary. The extra travel of the pedal isnt enough to cause any contact of the fingers to the disks so no worries there.

Definitely need to see what the slave cylinder is doing and go from there. I doubt a brand new unit is bad.

SPOOLINmatt

or just adjust the pedal down if it needs to be a shorter stroke.