slateEKsi

I have a 2000 integra gsr which i recently installed 4 alpine type s speakers into. With some type of sony xplode headunit that came in a car i bought (4x50w of power i think or something like that) . The car sounds decent for what the system is, but i will be looking to further upgrade the system in the not so distant future. I am looking for advice on what type (what criteria) of HU i should buy to run an amp that would be connected to my type s speakers, and also an amp for a 10in sub that i want in the future. Also, what type of amp i should get for the speakers, and if you guys have suggestions on the sub and amp for that, i'm a newb so feel free to drill me. I'm not looking for some amazing setup here that is going to cost me a ton of money, just something so my car has a little more legitimate system. Should i get an amp and sub before amping the speakers, or vice versa?

98civdx

Budget?

I like alpine head units, pioneer, clarion are also great. Off the top of my head i cant think of what they need to see rms, but get a amp the will give them the rms power.

For subs, theres jl aduio, alpine,kicker and many others to fit a budget.

i my friend has a alpine deck 4 alpine type rs and a alpine amp. with a 10'' jl sub and a alpine amp for that, and the sound is amazing. Great highs, with fantastic lows.

edzy

Budget??

when it comes to subs, i stick to internet direct brands since u get better stuff for the money compared to mainstream stuff from alpine, kicker, jl, etc.

slateEKsi

budget is on the lower side, dont have a numerical value because i'm not familiar with how much all the stuff costs... if someone could recommend a good cheaper sub, like those internet direct brands or whatever, that'd be great. And where do i get a box? So it seems that Head units are flexible, & i just need to make sure that i get an amp that supplies enough rms power (which for these type s speakers is "80 watt max rms")

virt

I would build from subs -> outward. Careful on the wiring scams and put some time in to do research as that will add up.

edzy

Here you go

Kenwood x693 179.99
http://www.woofersetc.com/p7815/KDCX...D-Receiver.htm

phoenix gold rsd65cs 79.99
http://www.woofersetc.com/p6952/RSD6...ker-System.htm

mb quart dsc 4125 189.99
http://www.woofersetc.com/p6837/DSC4...-Amplifier.htm

12" ssa dcon 125.99(get the single 4 ohm)
http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/s...7B47%7DS4.html

box will be 2.25 cubes tuned to 30hz 199.99

I use fisher customs for all my boxes..sadly there site is down, but u can contact them here

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/f...stoms-f79.html

You can use the dsc4125 to power the rsd's and the sub

just bridge the rear channels.

Total is 775

Still need deadening..and an amp kit.

slateEKsi

wow thanks for all that! What is the deadening? could i use that dsc 4125 to power all 4 of my type s speakers and a 10 or 12 inch sub that you suggested?

builthatch

i believe he means sound deadening = dynamat or similar product. i only use dynamat but there are alot of competing products from smaller companies which seem to have a following. the problem is alot of these smaller companies seem to fall off the face of the earth. people hate on dynamat only because it can be somewhat expensive vs. the smaller companies, but i've never had any issues and i really like the superlite stuff for straight up audio use, so i'm pretty allegiant to dynamat.

i am not familiar with that amp, but it doesn't look like it can run 3 channels. he surely knows more than i do about that model so maybe i'm wrong. you could get a dual 4ohm voice coil sub and run each of the rear channels of that amp to the voice coils of the sub...but i'm thinking it would be ideal for you to have a 4 channel amp that can be run in 3 channel mode. that way you can use two channels to run the front speakers, and bridge the rear two to make one sub channel. you then use the head unit rear two channels to push the rear speakers, which is plenty for rear fill.

that's what i do. i have an alpine pdx 4.150. it's super efficient and really small...not cheap though! i use the front two channels to run alpine type r components, i use the factory bose HU to run the rear speakers, and i have the rear two channels of the alpine amp bridged to run an alpine type r sub in a SUPER efficient box design.

for box design, it really pays to learn about the main parameters and use a program like winisd pro. this way you can build your own box tuned to anything you want. or...you could find a local shop that uses a similar program to make boxes. you don't want to use a generic box based off of factory recommendations, or a universal box in general without running the parameters to see how the sub will act in that box. for instance, the box i made for my type r is like 2.5 cubic feet. alpine recommends much smaller and it is not ideal.



generally speaking, i've found that the mid-line mass market loaded PORTED enclosures work very well. ie, JL, memphis, rockford. they all seem to tune their boxes per the driver. still, i'd rather buy the driver that is most attractive to you and get a box made around it, made by you or someone else, using a program to assure it's dialed and you get the most out of your sub.

slateEKsi

I think for now i'm just going to get a 10" sub and an amp to power it, but i really appreciate all the advice! i'm just to much of a newb to fully understand how to setup a fully amped system, and i think a sub will help the sound quality (enough to make me happpy) of the speakers by removing the low frequencies from them. Where should i put the deadening if i choose to use some?

builthatch

usually you want to put it on any flat metal panel. you apply it to the inner portions of doors, trunks, etc. the reason is those types of spans of metal resonate...vibrate, and they color the sound of your speakers because of the vibrations. they also contribue to other vibrations (rattles) and, of course, sound deadening material will help against road noise. the material damps all of that by turning the vibration energy into very very mild heat.

you don't HAVE to do it, it might be something you want to get involved with down the line, but it's pretty easy if you don't have a problem taking your major inner panels off and then putting them back together. of course be VERY careful if applying it to any outer sheet metal surfaces. one slip on the inside of one of those can show as dent on the outside.

i think you will be just fine with an amp and a sub.

i'm sure that headunit has pre-amp outputs (RCA plugs), so you can just wire up the amp, run the rca cables and install the sub of your choice in (hopefully) a well-designed box tuned specfically for that sub.

the sub won't remove the low frequencies from the door speakers. the only way to remove them with a simple setup like what you have is to wire specific capacitors inline with the positive wire of each speaker, so you can eliminate the lowest frequencies that the little door speakers can't handle. i don't know if there is a simpler way to do it nowadays.

slateEKsi

ideas for a sub/box combo (and where to get them) that wont take up too much space in my teg? i'm talkin entry level here, nothin to expensive.

builthatch

what is your budget for the sub and box?

slateEKsi

could i get a halfway decent combo for like 150-175 ish ? i dont need a huge powerful sub, just something with some bass and good sq

edzy

No..

that'll go to box alone...

edzy

Cheapest budget setup comes out to about 410

unless u can build a ported box on ur own.