TravisBiggie

I am not asking if its a good idea or not, I know the "risks" doing it this way.


I am going to start in the middle and work my way out. I will remove one stud, and torque it to the manual specifics, which is 63ftlbs i think, and do that with all the studs, so no pressure on the head gasket will be lost.

Ii hear SO much back n forth about arps specs. Do 70lbs, do 75! Dont do 75! Dont do 80!

I will do 75lbs with moly lube. So should i replace all the bolts with arps at 63ftlbs then re torque them all to 75, or should i just torque them to 75 when i install em?

ThanksL

eg6 type-R

if u have trouble with what torque specs u need.. call arp and they wil help you out

el crapitan

i'd think you'd want to start from the outside and work your way inward. opposite the tightening sequence. i dunno. that's just what i'd think. it's all about the spread of the gasket and not disturbing that. and you'd definitely want to torque each stud to it's final spec individually and not all at once. if you can, try draining the block first as well. that way no coolant from the water jackets gets into the surface area.
but really, pulling the head isn't much work on these cars. would be nice to have it resurfaced and with a fresh gasket. you're gonna need to pull the cams anyways, so you've already got the t belt off. i dunno. it's your car. do your thing

beecee18

What you do is

Remove head lol
check mating surfaces for flat and true
install new arp headstuds to arp specs with the lube supplied
torque head down with your new head gasket to arp specs

enjoy!

wunfstgsr

do it right! you might have a hg leak that way, and id sudgest replacing the hg too, removing one bolt and putting in a arp stud might cause the hg to leak, if im not mistaken once the hg is torqued and crimped its done, and when you loosen the bolts you cant get the same seal, so basically you really cant reuse a hg. also it might be difficult to torque the stud in but if it is the newer studs it has the alen hole on top so you might be able too.gl.

doood

iTrader: (1)

how lazy are you?

Double Agent

Seriously? Pull the head and install the studs to ARP specs and install a new gasket. If you took the time to build the engine to the point where it needs studs, do it right. And if the engine is stock don't even bother, no performance gain in studs alone.

beecee18

Wun,
ARP installation instructions suggest that the studs be finger tight prior to nuts being installed and torqued to arp specs, the huge difference in torque specs is what would do more harm then good as it would surely warp the head if done one by one.
Which is simply not an option.

beecee18

el crapitan

that is an excellent point right there.

Solster

ok so if your hell bent on doing it this how.

pull the old bolts in the reverse order of install. so when looking at the torque pattern start with bolt 10 and end with bolt 1

when installing the studs torque them to the final spec befor moving to the next bolt.

for the b18a/b1 final spec is 58 ft lbs
for the B18C1 it's 63 ft lbs


Now the Shock to the head gasket sealant (the Ultra Thine coating on the top and bottom layers of HG) will break there bonds to the block and head and my even chip off compleatly.
also over time as the engine heats up and cools down the HG rubs agenst the block deck and head surface. this is what makes the lip on the block that you can feel between the block casting and steel sleeve of the Stock block. Now if this effect is pressent when you pull the first bolt there is no way to say how long it will hold till the HG blows but it's pretty much going to happen.

I have seen this done to 6 engines and only one is still running with out the HG being replaced but it had only 50 miles on the motor

beecee18

What you do is

Remove head lol
check mating surfaces for flat and true
install new arp headstuds to arp specs with the lube supplied
torque head down with your new head gasket to arp specs

enjoy!

Solster

He didn't ask the CORRECT way to do it he asked the HALF ASSED way to do it.

beecee18

Well being that were are on an official technical site, I say we only give out correct info, Not trying to bash you as I'm sure you know your *** from a hole in ground. Although your torque specs are wrong as with the introduction of ARP's thread lube torque numbers are much higher.

Dont promote lazyness, Or shoot out miss-info, My opinion is the OP got the info he needed, And if he chooses not to use it, Uhffff him.
But the viewers need definitive info so they can apply it to thier vehicles and learn from. There is no half-assed way, And numbers dont lie.

hatmanafro

its been clearly said that this is the half assed way to do it.. lmao.. OP is gonna get whats coming if he does a half *** job.. viewers are smarter than that.. and if theyre dumb enough not to read then they deserve the same fate.. lmao

StrokeDC2

I dont think you'd be able to install the arp head studs with head on anyways since the end of the stud which goes into the block is a bit flared out wider then the width of the head dowels, its a must to take the head off and then dowels, then arp head studs, and what beecee did. and if im not wrong, i remembered that the torque specs was about 80-83 lbs?. Well, we all just helping you with positive and correct ways to properly have your running rite, your car..your choice...choice is yours. good luck

Solster

I admit the Torque Spec's I gave are Not ARP Spec's but They Are Stock Specs.
and as for only giving out correct Info That would mean that it was asked for.
and the OP stated he knows the risks so why not give him the info he asked for?

Best case he dumps a ton of money into the car and never gets it to work right and sells it to someone who wont do a Half Assed job.

Agreed my good man agreed.