trm4life

So, long story short. I left my keys in my ignition, with it turned on, for hours. There are warnings not to leave it on for more than 10 minutes at a time. Well I started the car, drove the car about a mile or 2, and it shut down. Tried to swap my dizzy, still no start. (At this point I could hear the fuel pump turn on) Towed my car home, and got a solid CEL when jumping the wire for diagnostics. However, it turns on and off normally without the wire jumped. Now I can't hear the fuel pump. I tried another ignition/fuel pump relay, still no luck. I bought another ECU (p75, stock is a pr4, but I'm told p75 will work) still no fuel pump. Personally, I'm assuming the fuel pump burned out from being turned on for too long with just under 1/4 tank of fuel. I feel pretty stupid for buying another ECU now that I don't hear the pump. Thinking I'll buy another relay and see if I get lucky. BTW the fuel pump is literally only a year old. OEM style with new bracket and wiring.

tony_2018

Sucks..

2x0

What do any of these problems have to due with leaving the ignition on? Sounds like your ecu crapped out. How are they related, and where are these ten minute warnings?

Im asking seriously because sometimes I keep mine on while plugged into Hondata and adjusting maps etc

thewrai6th

Yeah, I'm not getting this. You leave your keys in the ignition and the worst that happens is your battery dies and you need a jump. I've done it many, many times while working on my car. This sounds like a coincidence, and something broke while you were driving down the road.

trm4life

I honestly believe I read the no more than 10 minutes at a time in my Chilton's manual, I'd have to look again. The key was not in the run position, which would usually kill the battery, but just the on position. I know that either the ignition/fuel pump relay, ecu, ignition coil (inside the dizzy) or fuel pump could be damaged as a result. I literally just rebuilt the car last year. Everything is new. Grounds were cleaned, wires replaced. Relay, and fuel pump were new, gas tank is new. I have 2 distributors, and 2 ecu's. I'm honestly pretty sure the pump burned out. I'll try to fire with starting fluid and give you guys an update. If it works I won't need an ignition relay, just a fuel pump. If it doesn't work, and a relay doesn't work, the new ecu I just got is bad.

tony_2018

Doesn't make sense to me, please tell me what page this was found on in the Chilton's Manual.

CandyRedRC46

When you put the key in the on position, doesn't the fuel pump just prime for 3 seconds and then cycle off? So how would the pump be effected?

trm4life

Well, I just started my car with starting fluid. I dont hear the fuel pump when I turn the key. I'm still considering trying a relay before I buy another new pump. Pretty sure it's the pump that failed. Brand new last year, Airtex. Gas tank is also new. I did have less than a quarter tank. Guess it's one of those situations, you don't know until you've been there.

tamboo

grab a used mitsuba unit for $15 or $60 new at stealership.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-95-Civic-Del-Sol-Integra-OEM-main-relay-RZ-0132-Mitsuba-/112320426122?hash=item1a26d1b08a:g:M-8AAOSwrXdXKmxW&vxp=mtr

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/oem-pa...1hbnVhbA%3D%3D

or have a go at the relay with a soldering iron, not much to lose.

Acura Honda Main Relay Solution

trm4life

Yeah, I have a stock mitsuma relay and a new 18$ generic. I'm pretty much assuming their both good since it fires with starting fluid. My assumption, is even if you drive low on fuel, it wouldn't be long, but to leave the pump energized overnight, with low fuel, likely killed it.

tamboo

the original pump on mine was *****, lasted maybe 7 years, less than 100k.
grab a denso if you got the dough. rockauto cheapy while you save up if you dont.

trm4life

I actually had a cheap "brisos" pump when I originally replaced the fuel tank (old one was leaking at the seam). That pump actually failed almost immediately. Took me weeks to realize my no start issue was my pump. So I bought an Airtex assembly for around 150$. Fired right up. Common name like spectra, Delphi, denso, so I assumed the quality was going to be good. I ran it low a couple times with no issue. It wasn't until I was low on fuel, and left the key on overnight that it failed. Had the tank been 1/2 full, chances are it may not have failed because it would have been immersed in fuel to stay cool.

AdrianClayton

But the pump only primes with the key on, then runs only if the engine is running.......

trm4life

That's also what I thought. Which is why I originally thought the ecu had failed. Personally, I would have expected the ignition coil to burn up, or the fuel pump relay. I was rather surprised when it fired on starting fluid. I'm going to test the wires for the pump at the harness, under the back seat to see if just maybe, it still is the relay. Will update...

tamboo

airtex icm is the way to go when you need one as i just did.
design avoids the heat failure issues of the factory nec units.

More Information for AIRTEX/WELLS 6H1001

went with stealership coil from amazon for $80ish, richporter for $20 from ebay
is a good poverty option.

CandyRedRC46

So the AIRTEX is the "ignitor" and you went with an oem coil? I just put in an entire Rich Porter distributor and while the car is running better than it was, it is still not perfect (it does still have a rough start every now and then, sometimes stumbles or lurches in traffic and feels as though it is slightly bogging in the idle to 3000 RPM range), so I am hoping/wondering if changing out the rich porter guts (ignitor and coil) and autozone spark plug wires, would be a good idea. Not trying to thread jack, this seems relevant. Thank you

trm4life

I haven't had any problems ignition wise. I have a remanufactured dizzy (came with the car) and an aftermarket. I'm going to try to hook direct power to my pump, see if it turns on. Hoping to get it done tonight. Really hoping all I need is a new fuel pump relay.

trm4life

Looks like i found the problem. Guess i managed to fry the 12v wire at the harness. Going to test with a new wire from plug to relay. Fingers crossed!

AdrianClayton

That'll do it! I'm willing to bet that replacing the pigtail will solve your problem. Now, you should find what caused the melting. Hi current draw, high resistance, moisture in the connector ... ect.

trm4life

I already know it's from leaving the key on overnight. The fuel pump plug was new, so it seems obvious the wire failed as a result. Fortunately it's only one wire that burned up. I'll have to rerun the wire under the carpet and into the dash but I'll take that over pulling the tank to replace the pump any day!

trm4life

Success! So, turned out only about an inch of the wire was burned. I cut the wire and managed to reuse the original connector. Yes it was a bit ugly. I am a little concerned about the wire being a little shorter but I didn't loop the excess. I know that sometimes bunched wires can get hot. I made sure there was no tension on the wires when I reinstalled. Best part, I actually fixed the problem for free! Now I have to return or sell a tuned ecu. ...