93 B18A1 OBD1 starts, runs, and idles fine and then dies, also cant read CEL codes
07-26-2014, 11:43 PM
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93 B18A1 OBD1 starts, runs, and idles fine and then dies, also cant read CEL codes
I have a 93 B18A1 OBD1 Integra with some sort of electrical/sensor issue. It first started while I was driving home from work and it was after downshifting into second to turn in for a corner. Took the corner fine but just after the apex the engine cut out and the CEL turned on. At the time I thought it was from the hard shift or something I had just done. However as I restarted the engine it ran for only a couple of minutes and shut down, again throwing a CEL. I had to keep restarting it to get it home and coast into the driveway…
THE SYMPTONS:
• Will start fine and idle anywhere between 900-2000 depending on the temp and then die when the CEL comes on.
• If I try to restart it while the CEL is on from just dying it won’t start and the tachometer will not show any movement.
• When I turn the key completely off the CEL will not come back on.
• When the CEL is on and I turn the key completely off and turn it back on to accessory while I have a paperclip in the pug to read the CEL codes… it doesn’t flash any codes or even light up.
• If I try to read the CEL codes just after it dies/shuts down, it wont flash, it will just stay solid.
• If I have the key off and I disconnect the MAP sensor it will not trigger the CEL. however if I disconnect the water temp sensor that sends info to the ECU it will thro a code and when I try to start it with that water sensor disconnected it will start up with the CEL and idle rough and hunt idle and quickly dies.
• The more I try and start it the less time it runs until it just wont start at all, which makes me believe its temperature related.
• When it dies and I turn the key all the way off, ill try to turn the engine on again and get no reading from the tach, it will just crank. When I then go to turn the key off from accessory, it will send a spark to at least one of the plugs and it causes it to backfire….???wtf???
WHAT IV DONE/ PARTS REPLACED SO FAR.
First I should say that I have rebuilt this motor from scratch. I had it bored, honed, decked, and I believe line honed and of course bearings and seals. Also had the head plained, with valve and guide job and just recently replaced valve stem seals and the head gasket again. The valve stem seals were because the rubber cracked after getting below -20 degrees in the winter without heating the block so the rubber cracked.
When I first built the motor about a year ago, I replaced the distributor, fuel filter, PGMFI relay a.k.a main fuel relay, alternator, belts ect…
Recently replaced parts(within the last 24 hrs): the PGMFI main relay.
I am suspecting that the ECU is a big part of the problem just because I cant read any codes that its throwing. And on top of that I believe that its shorting out my PGMFI main relay because I suspected that was the fault and changed it after checking sensors all around the engine bay for shorts. After I changed that relay it ran perfectly, I let it idle in the driveway for at least 25-30 minutes and I shut it down… and then I drove it through town to get fuel and back (about 10 miles) without a single problem… however I get in my car to drive into town maybe 30 minutes later I drove about 1 mile before it cut out, again throwing the CEL.
One other thing to mention is that I have not tested the fuel pressure yet due to the fact that I don’t have the right tools to test it with. With that being said I always hear the pump prime when I turn the key, that combined with the backfiring doesn’t make me think it’s a fuel delivery issue….however I have been wrong before, and I will be wrong again. I have also taken the cap off of the distributor and gently scraped off the little corrosion that was on the rotor and on the prongs in the cap. Iv also checked and cleaned the plug to the alternator. Water is full with no air bubbles. Oil is also good aside from a small leak coming from the valve cover plug. Driving through town to get fuel I noticed a sound coming from the transmission like the trans oil is getting a little low and I intend to check it shortly, however I don’t believe there are any sensors on the trans so I didn’t feel like its currently relevant.
Could this be entirely the ECU? If so is there a way to test it? Has anybody out there seen this or had any similar issues. I am so lost, I could really use help on this one. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.
THE SYMPTONS:
• Will start fine and idle anywhere between 900-2000 depending on the temp and then die when the CEL comes on.
• If I try to restart it while the CEL is on from just dying it won’t start and the tachometer will not show any movement.
• When I turn the key completely off the CEL will not come back on.
• When the CEL is on and I turn the key completely off and turn it back on to accessory while I have a paperclip in the pug to read the CEL codes… it doesn’t flash any codes or even light up.
• If I try to read the CEL codes just after it dies/shuts down, it wont flash, it will just stay solid.
• If I have the key off and I disconnect the MAP sensor it will not trigger the CEL. however if I disconnect the water temp sensor that sends info to the ECU it will thro a code and when I try to start it with that water sensor disconnected it will start up with the CEL and idle rough and hunt idle and quickly dies.
• The more I try and start it the less time it runs until it just wont start at all, which makes me believe its temperature related.
• When it dies and I turn the key all the way off, ill try to turn the engine on again and get no reading from the tach, it will just crank. When I then go to turn the key off from accessory, it will send a spark to at least one of the plugs and it causes it to backfire….???wtf???
WHAT IV DONE/ PARTS REPLACED SO FAR.
First I should say that I have rebuilt this motor from scratch. I had it bored, honed, decked, and I believe line honed and of course bearings and seals. Also had the head plained, with valve and guide job and just recently replaced valve stem seals and the head gasket again. The valve stem seals were because the rubber cracked after getting below -20 degrees in the winter without heating the block so the rubber cracked.
When I first built the motor about a year ago, I replaced the distributor, fuel filter, PGMFI relay a.k.a main fuel relay, alternator, belts ect…
Recently replaced parts(within the last 24 hrs): the PGMFI main relay.
I am suspecting that the ECU is a big part of the problem just because I cant read any codes that its throwing. And on top of that I believe that its shorting out my PGMFI main relay because I suspected that was the fault and changed it after checking sensors all around the engine bay for shorts. After I changed that relay it ran perfectly, I let it idle in the driveway for at least 25-30 minutes and I shut it down… and then I drove it through town to get fuel and back (about 10 miles) without a single problem… however I get in my car to drive into town maybe 30 minutes later I drove about 1 mile before it cut out, again throwing the CEL.
One other thing to mention is that I have not tested the fuel pressure yet due to the fact that I don’t have the right tools to test it with. With that being said I always hear the pump prime when I turn the key, that combined with the backfiring doesn’t make me think it’s a fuel delivery issue….however I have been wrong before, and I will be wrong again. I have also taken the cap off of the distributor and gently scraped off the little corrosion that was on the rotor and on the prongs in the cap. Iv also checked and cleaned the plug to the alternator. Water is full with no air bubbles. Oil is also good aside from a small leak coming from the valve cover plug. Driving through town to get fuel I noticed a sound coming from the transmission like the trans oil is getting a little low and I intend to check it shortly, however I don’t believe there are any sensors on the trans so I didn’t feel like its currently relevant.
Could this be entirely the ECU? If so is there a way to test it? Has anybody out there seen this or had any similar issues. I am so lost, I could really use help on this one. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.
07-27-2014, 10:02 AM
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Re: 93 B18A1 OBD1 starts, runs, and idles fine and then dies, also cant read CEL code
when the cel comes on just leave the car running and try to pull the code,
i had the same issue, someone here told me to try that and it worked.
tach issues can mean dodgy icm (igniter).
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...eshooting.html
i had the same issue, someone here told me to try that and it worked.
tach issues can mean dodgy icm (igniter).
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...eshooting.html
07-28-2014, 06:55 AM
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Re: 93 B18A1 OBD1 starts, runs, and idles fine and then dies, also cant read CEL code
when the cel comes on just leave the car running and try to pull the code,
i had the same issue, someone here told me to try that and it worked.
tach issues can mean dodgy icm (igniter).
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...eshooting.html
i had the same issue, someone here told me to try that and it worked.
tach issues can mean dodgy icm (igniter).
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...eshooting.html
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