VITARA BUILD what not to do (won't work for 1.5 engines)
07-20-2010, 02:29 PM
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VITARA BUILD what not to do (won't work for 1.5 engines)
Vitara build for D-series turbo. Overall a good build that doesn't cost a lot of money. If you want a good amount of power and don't want to spend a lot of this is the perfect build for you. If you do everything right you could easily be making 200WHP. Most forums say that the pistons will bolt on with no mods, and this is true to an extent. Any and all D16 motors will do just fine with these pistons. Honda uses press fitted wrist pins on the pistons and the Vitaras come with circlips. This not a problem. The wrist pins are the same size, it makes no difference. As far as compression ratio goes, it can vary from 7.0:1 to 9.5:1 depending on your setup. Yes I said 7.0:1 C/R, ill get to that in a bit.
As far as rods go, I have found that the rods are the biggest issue for people doing this build. If you have a D16 motor you can go right a head and put these pistons on with no worries, it will drop your compression ratio enough to where a turbo setup will be perfect. Also if you are using a JDM d15b vtec motor, you can do this as well because the rod length on those is the same as a D16.
However, if you have a D15B7 or a D15Z1, DO NOT BOTHER DOING THIS BUILD!!
the rods on these blocks are 134MM compared to the d15b vtec and d16 rods which are 137MM If you try to use these blocks with stock rods, your piston will come out about .100 shorter then the stock piston would. Which means your compression ration will be down around 7.0:1 This is not good at all. If your car will start, you will lose about 20% of your over all power, it will run way to rich, and you will have wasted your money. People have found solutions though.....sort of.
When doing this build everyone typically uses a D16 block and gets eagle rods or crower rods or what ever. The eagle rods are only about $350. When you go to find rods for the D15b7.....there aren't any. The only company who makes rods that would even come close to working is crower, but they run around $700. No thank you.
Another way some have used is by getting a D15b vtec crank with rods for a D16. You can even use the rods from an LS. (B18B) however it isn't as easy as it sounds. In order for these rods to work, you need to notch out the bottom of your block or else the rods will be hitting it. Some people have complained about their Vitara pistons knocking. My guess is that the rods are hitting the block which is part of the knocking noise, but also when your rod hits, it will cause your piston to knock as it is being stopped abruptly. Notching the block is a very messy project and costly if you can't do it yourself. It just is not worth the trouble. The LS rods can be used on the D16 if you want to stay cheap. They are thicker then the stock ones, but still are not very strong...
I will write out a parts list of what I did for my setup based off of all the information I have gathered.
Let me know what you guys think. If this post was helpful at all please let me know, or if you have anything to add please feel free to.
Parts list:
D16Z6 block
D16Y8 head
Y8 head gasket
Vitara 75.5MM pistons
Eagle rods
P28 ECU chipped on chrome (has timing advanced 2 degrees)
Ebay T3/T4 turbo kit
guessing around 200WHP at the least.
I still have a lot of information about this. So if you still have un answered questions or anything feel free to contact me.
As far as rods go, I have found that the rods are the biggest issue for people doing this build. If you have a D16 motor you can go right a head and put these pistons on with no worries, it will drop your compression ratio enough to where a turbo setup will be perfect. Also if you are using a JDM d15b vtec motor, you can do this as well because the rod length on those is the same as a D16.
However, if you have a D15B7 or a D15Z1, DO NOT BOTHER DOING THIS BUILD!!
the rods on these blocks are 134MM compared to the d15b vtec and d16 rods which are 137MM If you try to use these blocks with stock rods, your piston will come out about .100 shorter then the stock piston would. Which means your compression ration will be down around 7.0:1 This is not good at all. If your car will start, you will lose about 20% of your over all power, it will run way to rich, and you will have wasted your money. People have found solutions though.....sort of.
When doing this build everyone typically uses a D16 block and gets eagle rods or crower rods or what ever. The eagle rods are only about $350. When you go to find rods for the D15b7.....there aren't any. The only company who makes rods that would even come close to working is crower, but they run around $700. No thank you.
Another way some have used is by getting a D15b vtec crank with rods for a D16. You can even use the rods from an LS. (B18B) however it isn't as easy as it sounds. In order for these rods to work, you need to notch out the bottom of your block or else the rods will be hitting it. Some people have complained about their Vitara pistons knocking. My guess is that the rods are hitting the block which is part of the knocking noise, but also when your rod hits, it will cause your piston to knock as it is being stopped abruptly. Notching the block is a very messy project and costly if you can't do it yourself. It just is not worth the trouble. The LS rods can be used on the D16 if you want to stay cheap. They are thicker then the stock ones, but still are not very strong...
I will write out a parts list of what I did for my setup based off of all the information I have gathered.
Let me know what you guys think. If this post was helpful at all please let me know, or if you have anything to add please feel free to.
Parts list:
D16Z6 block
D16Y8 head
Y8 head gasket
Vitara 75.5MM pistons
Eagle rods
P28 ECU chipped on chrome (has timing advanced 2 degrees)
Ebay T3/T4 turbo kit
guessing around 200WHP at the least.
I still have a lot of information about this. So if you still have un answered questions or anything feel free to contact me.
07-20-2010, 03:18 PM
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Re: VITARA BUILD what not to do (won't work for 1.5 engines)
I guess i just don't really understand the point you are trying to get across.
Most of what you said is pretty common knowledge, everyone knows about the low compression if you run stock length rods with vitara pistons. There are custom rods that have been available for awhile that will bring the compression ratio ~8.5:1
I really hope that the reason why people are stating vitara builds are noisy isn't because the rods are hitting the block...
Notching the block is easy. I know many people that have done it themselves, and it doesn't cost that much to have a machine shop do it. And It's not due to the vitara pistons, it's because of the typical h-beam rod design. I beam rods don't need to have the block notched.
Most vitara builds are noisy because of large piston to wall clearances. That's why most people now choose the 75.5mm, so they can have the cylinders set with a correct ptw.
As for you build, i sure hope you can hit more than 200whp. Because it would have been much cheaper to keep a stock d-series in there. And if you don't, then you need a new tuner.
I've personally made ~380whp on a stock head vitara/eagle build, and there are plenty of people in the 400+ range. Hell, there is even a 9 second 635whp+ d-series with vitara pistons.
Most of what you said is pretty common knowledge, everyone knows about the low compression if you run stock length rods with vitara pistons. There are custom rods that have been available for awhile that will bring the compression ratio ~8.5:1
I really hope that the reason why people are stating vitara builds are noisy isn't because the rods are hitting the block...
Notching the block is easy. I know many people that have done it themselves, and it doesn't cost that much to have a machine shop do it. And It's not due to the vitara pistons, it's because of the typical h-beam rod design. I beam rods don't need to have the block notched.
Most vitara builds are noisy because of large piston to wall clearances. That's why most people now choose the 75.5mm, so they can have the cylinders set with a correct ptw.
As for you build, i sure hope you can hit more than 200whp. Because it would have been much cheaper to keep a stock d-series in there. And if you don't, then you need a new tuner.
I've personally made ~380whp on a stock head vitara/eagle build, and there are plenty of people in the 400+ range. Hell, there is even a 9 second 635whp+ d-series with vitara pistons.
07-20-2010, 04:46 PM
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Re: VITARA BUILD what not to do (won't work for 1.5 engines)
Vitara build for D-series turbo. Overall a good build that doesn't cost a lot of money. If you want a good amount of power and don't want to spend a lot of this is the perfect build for you. If you do everything right you could easily be making 200WHP. Most forums say that the pistons will bolt on with no mods, and this is true to an extent. Any and all D16 motors will do just fine with these pistons. Honda uses press fitted wrist pins on the pistons and the Vitaras come with circlips. This not a problem. The wrist pins are the same size, it makes no difference. As far as compression ratio goes, it can vary from 7.0:1 to 9.5:1 depending on your setup. Yes I said 7.0:1 C/R, ill get to that in a bit.
As far as rods go, I have found that the rods are the biggest issue for people doing this build. If you have a D16 motor you can go right a head and put these pistons on with no worries, it will drop your compression ratio enough to where a turbo setup will be perfect. Also if you are using a JDM d15b vtec motor, you can do this as well because the rod length on those is the same as a D16.
However, if you have a D15B7 or a D15Z1, DO NOT BOTHER DOING THIS BUILD!!
the rods on these blocks are 134MM compared to the d15b vtec and d16 rods which are 137MM If you try to use these blocks with stock rods, your piston will come out about .100 shorter then the stock piston would. Which means your compression ration will be down around 7.0:1 This is not good at all. If your car will start, you will lose about 20% of your over all power, it will run way to rich, and you will have wasted your money. People have found solutions though.....sort of.
When doing this build everyone typically uses a D16 block and gets eagle rods or crower rods or what ever. The eagle rods are only about $350. When you go to find rods for the D15b7.....there aren't any. The only company who makes rods that would even come close to working is crower, but they run around $700. No thank you.
Another way some have used is by getting a D15b vtec crank with rods for a D16. You can even use the rods from an LS. (B18B) however it isn't as easy as it sounds. In order for these rods to work, you need to notch out the bottom of your block or else the rods will be hitting it. Some people have complained about their Vitara pistons knocking. My guess is that the rods are hitting the block which is part of the knocking noise, but also when your rod hits, it will cause your piston to knock as it is being stopped abruptly. Notching the block is a very messy project and costly if you can't do it yourself. It just is not worth the trouble. The LS rods can be used on the D16 if you want to stay cheap. They are thicker then the stock ones, but still are not very strong...
I will write out a parts list of what I did for my setup based off of all the information I have gathered.
Let me know what you guys think. If this post was helpful at all please let me know, or if you have anything to add please feel free to.
Parts list:
D16Z6 block
D16Y8 head
Y8 head gasket
Vitara 75.5MM pistons
Eagle rods
P28 ECU chipped on chrome (has timing advanced 2 degrees)
Ebay T3/T4 turbo kit
guessing around 200WHP at the least.
I still have a lot of information about this. So if you still have un answered questions or anything feel free to contact me.
As far as rods go, I have found that the rods are the biggest issue for people doing this build. If you have a D16 motor you can go right a head and put these pistons on with no worries, it will drop your compression ratio enough to where a turbo setup will be perfect. Also if you are using a JDM d15b vtec motor, you can do this as well because the rod length on those is the same as a D16.
However, if you have a D15B7 or a D15Z1, DO NOT BOTHER DOING THIS BUILD!!
the rods on these blocks are 134MM compared to the d15b vtec and d16 rods which are 137MM If you try to use these blocks with stock rods, your piston will come out about .100 shorter then the stock piston would. Which means your compression ration will be down around 7.0:1 This is not good at all. If your car will start, you will lose about 20% of your over all power, it will run way to rich, and you will have wasted your money. People have found solutions though.....sort of.
When doing this build everyone typically uses a D16 block and gets eagle rods or crower rods or what ever. The eagle rods are only about $350. When you go to find rods for the D15b7.....there aren't any. The only company who makes rods that would even come close to working is crower, but they run around $700. No thank you.
Another way some have used is by getting a D15b vtec crank with rods for a D16. You can even use the rods from an LS. (B18B) however it isn't as easy as it sounds. In order for these rods to work, you need to notch out the bottom of your block or else the rods will be hitting it. Some people have complained about their Vitara pistons knocking. My guess is that the rods are hitting the block which is part of the knocking noise, but also when your rod hits, it will cause your piston to knock as it is being stopped abruptly. Notching the block is a very messy project and costly if you can't do it yourself. It just is not worth the trouble. The LS rods can be used on the D16 if you want to stay cheap. They are thicker then the stock ones, but still are not very strong...
I will write out a parts list of what I did for my setup based off of all the information I have gathered.
Let me know what you guys think. If this post was helpful at all please let me know, or if you have anything to add please feel free to.
Parts list:
D16Z6 block
D16Y8 head
Y8 head gasket
Vitara 75.5MM pistons
Eagle rods
P28 ECU chipped on chrome (has timing advanced 2 degrees)
Ebay T3/T4 turbo kit
guessing around 200WHP at the least.
I still have a lot of information about this. So if you still have un answered questions or anything feel free to contact me.
1 - ls rods DON'T hit the block, i have them in my engien and it turns over just fine with zero notching.
2 - As far as "pistons knocking" that would be piston slap you twit. and that comes from either to large of PTW or from installing them backwards which will have the wrong pin offset.
3 - Notching is a 30 min job and requires a die grinder it is very basic work.
4 - The ls rods are quite a bit stronger then your leading people to beleave.
07-20-2010, 04:55 PM
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Re: VITARA BUILD what not to do (won't work for 1.5 engines)
... and the custom rods for the USDM D15b2/b7 are near.. The design is done. Prototypes are near arrival for the testing....
There are custom length rods for the D16 and vitaras that will get your compression ratio between 8.1 to 8.8:1 depending on what head you use..
From lower to higher compression these are the heads
ZC DOHC - D16A6 - D16Z6/Y7 (Same CR) - D16Y8
There are also custom length rods for the vitara pistons on the JDM D15b and CR gets on the 8.1:1.
Block Notching:
On the Custom length I beams + D16 block = Block notching
On the custom length JDM D15b I beams + D15b block = NO NOTCHING/Plug and play..
There are TONS on info around.. I started this Vitara craze 5 years ago when i built my Sohc non vtec and presented this idea to this forum and other forums... This is something that has been done in PR for more than 8-10 yrs now so to be honest is kinda old school... Very few believed me...lots mocked me and said the setup would not work... some said i was going to be lucky if i even made 300whp and today... OH Today!! We have the first (and hopefuly not the only one) 9 sec vitara setup (almost in the Mid 9's) making close to 700whp.
There are custom length rods for the D16 and vitaras that will get your compression ratio between 8.1 to 8.8:1 depending on what head you use..
From lower to higher compression these are the heads
ZC DOHC - D16A6 - D16Z6/Y7 (Same CR) - D16Y8
There are also custom length rods for the vitara pistons on the JDM D15b and CR gets on the 8.1:1.
Block Notching:
On the Custom length I beams + D16 block = Block notching
On the custom length JDM D15b I beams + D15b block = NO NOTCHING/Plug and play..
There are TONS on info around.. I started this Vitara craze 5 years ago when i built my Sohc non vtec and presented this idea to this forum and other forums... This is something that has been done in PR for more than 8-10 yrs now so to be honest is kinda old school... Very few believed me...lots mocked me and said the setup would not work... some said i was going to be lucky if i even made 300whp and today... OH Today!! We have the first (and hopefuly not the only one) 9 sec vitara setup (almost in the Mid 9's) making close to 700whp.
07-20-2010, 06:27 PM
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Re: VITARA BUILD what not to do (won't work for 1.5 engines)
All the vitara builds I have seen are way over 200 horses. Another thing that has to be notched is the girdle as well to fit the new arp bolts that all eagle rods come with. Apparently there are also "special" blocks that don't get notched apparently 
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07-21-2010, 10:05 AM
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Re: VITARA BUILD what not to do (won't work for 1.5 engines)
So far the only block that does not require Block notching (With FJ Rods) is the JDM D15b due to the shorter stroke..
turbo sol
Re: VITARA BUILD what not to do (won't work for 1.5 engines)
Fjt weren't you working on custom CR vitara pistons also? any word on those?
Re: VITARA BUILD what not to do (won't work for 1.5 engines)
Fjt weren't you working on custom CR vitara pistons also? any word on those?
12-21-2014, 09:19 AM
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Re: VITARA BUILD what not to do (won't work for 1.5 engines)
Been slowly reading these post. I'm new to the Honda world. Got a d16z6 as well. I do like the vitara build so far for as much as I saw. But if I'm wanting to get bout 350-400hp what list of parts would be great to build with a 3.5k budget. If you guys know could you list parts and price and link. Please and thank you
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