Racergurlie

For those running stand alone's and who program in the anti lag..
How do you do it?

Trying to get the turbo to spool sooner at the line...

Up the fuel values in the vacuum map settings and Advance the timing in those map ranges or do you retard it?


And how much do you guys richen it up in those map settings and how much do you retard/advance the timing in those lower map settings?


We tried richening it up about 10 % in the map values from -20.00 to -2.00 map values and advancing the timing about 7 degrees on those map settings too...but it made no difference in spool? Do we have to get evil on the timing settings to get it to spill over into the turbine and burn there? Maybe 15-20 degees? Maybe we were suppose to retard and not advance at those settings...cant remember, Dave lost the damn manual...urgh...

Good news though, we didn't make it to NOPI this weekend(had some bugs we didn't get figured out till saturday) but we did go to a local track and ran a 10.5 @ 133mph at only 19 psi boost...Last year, we ran a 10.5 @ 132mph at 26 psi boost, so its nice to have it running on all six cylinders again...going to crank up the boost and go run some nines(wish it were always that easy..lol)


Also dave did up a new header for the 2jzgte, it is absolutely gorgeous...I'll post up some pics once i get them hosted...

Alyssa Kay

lazerus

You retard the timing usually 15-20 degrees works great (does for me) and fuel.. try 10% more fuel and adjust as needed...

Mase

I like the nature of this post, therefore I will try to help you guys out.

Taking that the truck is for drag, I would be guessing you are talking about a two-step? The term Anti-lag can get complicated because its also associated with anti-lag control throughout up & down shifts and when accelerating out of corners (road racing especially).

Secondly, What standalone are you guys using?

Most cars handle the 2 step/anti lag (what ever term you may choose) settings differently depending on the motor, ecu, and of course the turbo size.

Also, you will want to retard the ignition, not advance it.

Does your ecu have the 2 step/anti lag feature installed? if not, it may be impossible to create this type of feature.

if you were just to modify your normal fuel and ignition curves to the desired 2step settings, the car would probably run like ****.

I am most familar with the AEM EMS 2 step feature. it allows you to use the Vehicle speed sensor to turn off the 2 step rev limited at say 10 mph and then let you rev freely. otherwise it would hard to control without some type of 2 step feature.

As my best advice without knowing anythign further, Id start by only cutting ignition (if your standalone has the 2 step feature), and not dumping fuel just yet.


Hope that helps some.


Mase

Full-Race Geoff

retard timing, dump fuel.

if your standalone has its own nitrous fuel maps, (use a push button switch attached to the clutch pedal or finger switch, whatever you prefer) so that on the nitrous tables you can have the fuel dump and timing retard, and as soon as you launch its off the tables and on the normal tables.

Steno

SEARCHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Racergurlie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PF Chang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">SEARCHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

I did a search, no hits came up...

Full-Race Javier

FWIW , the reprogrammed JWT (nissan ecus) have a drag launch feature....they cut fuel to one cylinder, essentially turning it into an air pump. the other 3 cyls will have to work "harder"=load=spooling the turbo.

Signal Auto

Yeh pull timing, cut ignition and add fuel. I add about 35% fuel with enough spark cut to maintain ~4K rpms which yields ~.75 bar and nice flames... I do not use any timing retard... yet Anti-lag tuning soon to come

hackish

First there is launch control. Often this is an ignition cut or roving missing cylinders so you can pump large quantities of air through the exhaust on idle and make some boost.

Then there is anti-lag that backfires the car purposely to make boost. You can decide how agressive you want it by how much fuel you dump in and how much you retard the ignition. The longevity of your turbo is inversely proportionate to the agressiveness of your tune.

With a tiny restrictor we use ALS a lot in rally. Beware that it can make your EGT's skyrocket. I've seen more than one downpipe melted from running anti-lag. It also has a tendancy to melt cats so if you have them you might want to go with something like the random technology ones (hollow centre) and move them back some...

-Michael

Racergurlie

Dave could probably explain it alot better than I can.

So Im going to let him post and take over here, hope the mods dont get mad at me, I know he's banned, but he promises he keep it clean-

Stand alone system is SDS. I lost the darn manual and it had a section on how to program the anti lag feature, but I couldn't remember exactly for the life of me how to program it. I dont use the two step as it is equipped with a powerglide and a 5000rpm stall, so when I pull to the line and hit the transbrake, the rpms only shoot up to about 3000rpm(because there is no boost, and hence no torque) as the boost builds, then the stall goes up to around 5000rpm. So I cant use the two step as my rpm varies once I pull to the line, its not like my old stick setup where I pulled to the line, pushed in the clutch and floored it bouncing off the two step which produced a solid 8 pounds of boost at the line.

In the vacuum ranges of the fuel map sensor settings table, I richened it up about 10% and retarded the timing(oh shoot, it just occured to me, did I advance it or retard it, suppose I better make damn sure) the timing about 7 degrees in those same map fuel settings for what I thought would be a later burn which would cause the fuel to spill over into the turbine and burn(which I guess is the theory behind anti lag, getting the fuel to burn in the turbine). Just wanted to know if some of you racers also used the antilag feature on your standalones. I suppose most of the stick guys just use the two step as that acheives much of the same thing, allowing unburnt fuel from the alternating cylinders being cut to spill over into the turbine and burn.

At any rate, I appreciate everyones input...it helps alot.

Good new is, we ran a 10.5 @ 133mph at 19 psi boost, versus a 10.5 @ 132mph last year at 26 psi boost.(we had a dead hole last year that was a faulty injector we think, or perhaps fuel feed, I converted the rail to feed at both ends and the oulet in the middle to the regulator, seems to have cured the problem)

Setup is a completly stock 2jzgte including stock cams and a t72 turbo with an inneficient on center housing(dont ask, it was cheap, and racing is expensive...lol)

Race weight is 2850 with driver give or take.

Going to crank the boost up to 30 psi here given time and go run some 9's(easier said then done as we all know

Thanks for the input though, it is VERY much appreciated...I better hand the keyboard back over to AK before I get her in trouble...Thanks guys....

AK and Dave

ArtOwnzMe

this thread inspired me to add this feature to my editor

Great info




Modified by ArtOwnzMe at 10:40 PM 7/28/2003

Full-Race Geoff

try a steering wheel mounted momentary switch so as soon as the car launches you lift your thumb and its off the late spark/over-rich fuel map. That is of course assuing the SDS has that feature of having a second map.

..or you could always call SDS. They seem helpful enough, particularly if you are sponsored.

Racergurlie

Thanks FFgeoff...I appreciate the help and so does Dave, its an informative thread and Im trying to soak it in as much as I can. Dave was talking to a modified cars crew chief that runs 7's and he said they pull out 25-28 Degrees! and can build nearly 30 psi boost with no load on the motor at 8000rpm launch(they run a G force clutchless five speed I think, but they also run alcohol so that might help a bit too!) So I think pulling out seven degrees like we did just wasn't nearly enough...We'll have to really go at that timing and let you know...

keep the info coming, I think its useful for all racers...

Thanks!

Alyssa Kay

Jared

Have any of you guys ever torched a turbo using anti lag? I'm thinking about using it at the track on my street car because I can only get 4psi on the 2 step, but I don't have the budget to have my charger rebuilt every couple months.

Benny Hinn

In the glory days of F1, in order to keep the huge turbos spooled coming out of the corners with the small (1500cc) engine, they had an injector in the ex manifold to treat the turbo as a seperate engine (turbine) until the driver was back on the throttle. Anti-lag.

GZERO

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jared &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have any of you guys ever torched a turbo using anti lag? I'm thinking about using it at the track on my street car because I can only get 4psi on the 2 step, but I don't have the budget to have my charger rebuilt every couple months.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Be carefull, the Anti lag puts stress not only on your turbo, on many parts, the two most vulnerable are the turbo and the manifold, the manifold has to hold up to tremendous amounts of pressure and temps, so it's the turbo. I would think that running anti lag sys reduces your turbo life by half if it is used many times. That's just my $.02.

hackish

Again, it depends completely on how agressive an ALS system you set up. If you're constantly pumping fuel/air into the exhaust manifold and igniting it 60 degrees ATDC just before your exhaust valve closes then of course it's going to blow turbos. Also depends on the turbo itself. I've heard of street cars putting 50,000km on their turbos without any problems.

-Michael

GZERO

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hackish &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Again, it depends completely on how agressive an ALS system you set up. If you're constantly pumping fuel/air into the exhaust manifold and igniting it 60 degrees ATDC just before your exhaust valve closes then of course it's going to blow turbos. Also depends on the turbo itself. I've heard of street cars putting 50,000km on their turbos without any problems.

-Michael</TD></TR></TABLE>

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