OneBadTurboCRV

Excellent work "Mr. Pioneer"! You are helping the lazy stay lazy!

On a side note: Just in case people don't understand trochoid/gear/or vane pumps, read this...

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_p...bustion_engine)

Lazysk8r2

This thing looks crazy!

Whiterice-gsr

i cant wait to find out how the locker works out.

draggbody

Everything is installed... just putting shop air to it, you can hear it actuate... I am letting the sealant dry and tomorrow I will wire everything up and give it a test...

Whiterice-gsr

fingers crossed.

MalcolmV8

Excited to see how that turns out.

draggbody

this is how i got the air into the diff... i started w/ a 14mm hole... i just used a unibit and a vacuum cleaner on the inside to kepp the shavings out of everything...



this bulkhead 1/4" fitting came from allen-orton, aka parker store... i added the o ring to the inside and loctite everything... the problem was getting the hose into this w/o kinking the line... i just slid it on a piece of stiff wire w/ a similar od as the hose, bent it over to 90ish and then used my heat gun to "mold" it... once it cooled i just slid it off and it stayed pretty close...








here is a shot of the fitting that goes into the piston block... it will protrude and ultimately require the housing to be notched to fit around it...







finished... welding this **** sucks... cast oil soaked housings, ughh...




the compressor.. i ordered the one w/o the damn valve... so there is one more piece to install...

MalcolmV8

I love the speed at which you're able to move forward on your project. Keep up the great work.

H22AFerio

omg! good stuff! I love this stuff.

Elias-Kiev

thank you!!

Elias-Kiev

agree!! the most incredible fast speed I've ever seen

Whiterice-gsr

how are u able to do this stuff so fast?

H22AFerio

Experience and mad skills haha

Whiterice-gsr

thats a given lol, most of us work all day though and work on our cars when we can, seems like hes puttin full time hours in, this build is flyin along. not that im complaining i love seein the updates lol.

draggbody

i just work on it after work... except when my daughter has softball practice...

Whiterice-gsr

right on man

czum09

I just read the whole thread. Very very impressive. Good work. Pics of the whole car?

draggbody

so i won a battle and i lost a battle today... the rear diff actuator works great... w/ the valve hooked up i can clearly hear the diff engaging and disengaging while driving... however i think the machined nongasket sealing surface of the oil pump is leaking slowly, not a big deal, as the pressure switch just cycles every 30 seconds or so and it only stays on for just a second... i can deal w/ this...

however, the battle i lost is w/ the driveshaft, maybe not so much a loss, as a setback... this seems to be where the excessive wheel hop was coming from... we tried some clutch drops on grass and the rear is not pulling w/ any torque on it... it helps a little under acceleration, but the design of the shaft is slipping at the center coupler... i assume it is built similar to a cv axle, but w/ rubber pucks or something inside... whatever it is, it doesnt like 440hp... i will disect this when it comes time to take it off and i am looking into options for yoke replacments, basically i am going to need an adapter for the yoke and the i can go to something that is more industry standard... the factory u joints are nonserviceable and can not accept any c clip to retain a replacement joint... so, it sucks if you need a new driveshaft because one from honda is over $1000...

stay tuned...

MalcolmV8

Sounds like you're getting closer. Not sure why manufactures make non serviceable drive shafts. Probably money. When I built my AWD Ranger I used an AWD Explorer drive train for a donor and ran into the same thing with the front drive shaft. Non serviceable ends so you couldn't swap parts out or rebuild it. I ended up just tossing it and having a custom shaft built by a drive line shop.

So do you think there's anything you can do about the air leak or are you just going to leave it that way?

draggbody

i think w/ the air leak i will try some indian head sealant... its an old school glue that we use to use for rotary motors when using newer style rotor housings that didnt have provisions for seals... im not really concerned about it at this point though...

fast2camciv

I have the same exact problem with wheel hop! I thought all this time that my suspension bushings were all shot (along with diff mounting bushings) after all my car has 200k on it, and probably all original bushings....i've looked them over and they didnt look THAT bad, but this is my first time dealing with awd, so I've been telling myself that must be the issue...although in the back of my mind, i'm just not buying it lol. Sounds like you are in the same spot. have you seen the transfer case pics in rallysol's thread??? He posted pics of a rubber "absorber" thing that is trashed...and it has been making me think that is the reason the rt4wd system is so slow to react.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...708933&page=40

I have a spare driveline if you need me to take it apart and snap some pics or something...

H22AFerio

I know exactly what you mean man


Good thread! I keep checking to see if there are any updates through out the day!

fast2camciv

Oh and here is a thread from Hondacivicwagon.com about replacement joints for the wagon driveline...

http://www.hondacivicwagon.com/bb/vi...php?f=7&t=7489

I am about 90% positive the joints are the same between drivelines...I also have a wagon driveline at home as well...I will take some measurements this weekend and see if they are indeed the same. (although you work pretty fast, you might have a solution to this entire problem before I can even get off work haha! )

draggbody

i havent thought about the tcase absorber, but it seems like you would just get noise out of that... it appears as though it couldnt slip, just get noisy...

fast2camciv

I hear ya, but then again...why have that joint there at all? only thing i can think of is that its a type of impact dampner. I havent had a transfer case apart myself so i only have pics to go from. is that absorber just a vibration absorber from driveline vibrations?

I've always felt like something in the transfer case (or driveline I suppose....but pretty sure the driveline is splined...I will check tonight) was slipping rather than the clutch pack engagement itself. when the car is up in the air the front wheels only spin about a half rotation before the back wheels start to turn...but under load the front's on mine spin a good 7-10 rotations before the back wheels do anything.