Crankshaft runout or Tunnels: Really in need of help here.

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10-19-2012, 05:29 PM

#26

EF9_TryMe

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Re: Crankshaft runout or Tunnels: Really in need of help here.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sleepencivic

Keep it simple before you go spending hours measuring do the plastigauge the proper way and post the pics of the variances....

Trying to. Unfortunately, there are other additional variables involved that are useful in a procedure like this. :/

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashb82

lay a straight edge aross the main and see if it rocks or u can put .001 shim under the straight edge.

Definitely noting this for my upcoming build!

Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by N3va3vaSatisfi3d

Did you actually read what I typed?

X-axis = Parting Line
Y-axis = 90* away from parting line...
45* = The middle of the parting line and 90* away.

If a circle is 360* and you divide it in half that is 180*. Divide that in half and it is 90*. Divide that in half and it is 45*... See the trend?

Again, the ONLY way to measure the bores is to torque to spec, and use a dial bore gauge and micrometer. Obviously to measue the bore you absolutely can NOT have bearings in them. They are eccentric... see what's going on here? There are WAY too many write-ups and videos on the YouTube for me to honestly be repeating all of this. Even EvansTuning did segments on this...

Argh! Why is this so hard to understand? :/ I don't think we're on the same topic, and not only that. There is also additional variables involved on what navigates my thinking in the wrong direction, resulting in misunderstanding due to an insufficient volume of knowledge regarding advanced blueprinting.

WITH BEARINGS: The egg shaped bore starts off from the parting line(y axis), and narrows down as you follow the y axis. The narrowest point should be right down the X axis(from the top center bearing, to the bottom center bearing? Correct ?)

When you say .. "45* angle egg shaped." starting off eg shaped at the
45 degree angle on the bearing itself ? Equivalent to an illustration I made likewise ... ?

The black dot indicating the start, and the rod dot indicating the end. Vice versa works as well. Just using this for reference.

If this makes any sense then this reading would be incorrect, and machining is prior before assembly, correct ?

WITHOUT BEARINGS: The bore should be completely round ?
correct ? The bearings themselves create the egg shaped image if I understand correct ?

Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by shanebadoo

Hey EF9 Try me, what sort of oil were you using? I've built about 15+ b series engines, and whilst that is not a big number, i have used similar methods to yours. Fortunately I've never had bearing failure, but I tend to use vr1 20-50 and advise the owners to use preferably 20-50 or10-40 in their boosted hondas. I am by no means an expert, but your method looks ok to me. It might have been something else.

1. What sort of oil were you using?
2. Did the motor have oil pump problems?
3. Was this a new or reused oil pump?
4.Any possibility of foreign debris into the engine?

Very sorry about your build.

1. Rotella Straight 30 for break in. After 1,000 miles. Switched over to Mobil 1 Synthetic.
2. Not that I know of, pressure was good in the beginning. It just kept dropping after countless runs.
3. Reused ITR Oil pump.
4. I highly doubt it. I cleaned the living hell out of the surfaces before I installed the bearings.

It's alright, s*!t happens, I am very pissed! >_<

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10-20-2012, 05:53 AM

#27

EG1834

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Re: Crankshaft runout or Tunnels: Really in need of help here.

Read this article, it should help:

http://epi-eng.com/piston_engine_tec...e_bearings.htm

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10-20-2012, 09:29 AM

#28

ashb82

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Re: Crankshaft runout or Tunnels: Really in need of help here.

btw what engine is this

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10-20-2012, 10:34 AM

#29

EF9_TryMe

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Re: Crankshaft runout or Tunnels: Really in need of help here.

GSR. Here is my build thread from this year, in march.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/drag-racing-36/ef9_trymes-journey-high-11s-race-build-3049141/

Everything was on point!! >_<!

Here's another funny experience that I had witnessed in the beginning of the break in.

It was maybe about 100-200 miles. I was just driving the thing around. No smoke! What's so ever.
No signs or anything. Oil pressure stayed consistent, and did not budge.

Then this is where I personally think the problem started.

Taking out the 27SF_256 B16 Basemap...(I did not beat it on this basemap)
I switched over to my ostrich, tried tuning the car with the I.D. 1000's.
As I was trying to get the vehicle to idle, I kept being a n00b and screwed around with
the main fuel tables located on the low cam map.

It was dying out, cranking real rich, idling real rich, lean, and all sorts of crap was going on.
Me ofcourse, being a noob, had no idea about the base fuel table multiplier offsets that eCtune
had in store. I figured this out after the smoking dilemma.

Keep in mind the car did not smoke yet. I kept screwing around with the base fuel table
multiplier, and tried to start the car. Once I had the car up and running with the throttle
held down a bit, I screwed around with the base fuel tables so the car would idle properly.

After about 4-5 minutes of idling...The car blows out tremendous amount of blue smoke,
and this is where the issue started.

Personally, from what I experienced, at that point I think giving it so much fuel during that
scenario, damaged the Oil film or the Main bearings in some way. I bet the Pan was completely
contaminated with fuel.

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