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Just logged in (it's been a bit) to comment and say Im digging the outside the box thinking on the AC. My 93 Si has a ITR turbo with a 6162 with AC. I kept as much as possible OE orientation but I do dig the setup you have. May have to take a couple ideas for the future.
Saw your post in the chat thread about your radiator. I have a triple core and I removed the factory lower holders and used brackets off my traction bars to hold the radiaor. I also cut some webbing out of the radiator core support to move it over away from the turbo.
Thanks for sharing this stuff still on a forum. I appreciate the old school knowledge sharing.
Just logged in (it's been a bit) to comment and say Im digging the outside the box thinking on the AC. My 93 Si has a ITR turbo with a 6162 with AC. I kept as much as possible OE orientation but I do dig the setup you have. May have to take a couple ideas for the future.
Saw your post in the chat thread about your radiator. I have a triple core and I removed the factory lower holders and used brackets off my traction bars to hold the radiaor. I also cut some webbing out of the radiator core support to move it over away from the turbo.
Thanks for sharing this stuff still on a forum. I appreciate the old school knowledge sharing.
Thank you - Awesome to hear you also have a 93 Si. Mounting the radiator directly to the traction bar is also a good idea, there's definitely a few different ways of tackling that issue so nothing to get too stressed over.
Very excited to get the AC system charged up and see how it all works. There's one line that I'll need to shorten a couple inches between the dryer bottle and the compressor, but that's the last modification needed for the full system to be plugged in.
Just logged in (it's been a bit) to comment and say Im digging the outside the box thinking on the AC. My 93 Si has a ITR turbo with a 6162 with AC. I kept as much as possible OE orientation but I do dig the setup you have. May have to take a couple ideas for the future.
Saw your post in the chat thread about your radiator. I have a triple core and I removed the factory lower holders and used brackets off my traction bars to hold the radiaor. I also cut some webbing out of the radiator core support to move it over away from the turbo.
Thanks for sharing this stuff still on a forum. I appreciate the old school knowledge sharing.
For his reference, can you upload a pic of it mounted.
And I think ASR may have something similar as well, I know ASR has little radiator brackets available that you can either drill or weld on. In my case I'll be able to make something work in the OEM location, and keep my big motor Spal fan.
I know I'm not going to overheat just cruising around on the street or from a couple pulls, once I start taking the car to the track I can see if something more is needed.
This forum is extremely dead/slow and only getting slower as more people continue to drop off. I'm not derailing anything.
It's not uncommon for this sub to get 1-2 posts a day or less, or for this thread in particular to sometimes to days without comments.
9/10 of the posts I see from you on this forum are some angry/aggressively aimed crap anyway.
I can't post in GDD because it's full of ******** like you.
*dabs*
Instead of shitting up the other thread I'm just gunna come in here when I'm bored. Hope your looking forward to my input.
Axles & half shaft are in, catch can lines cut to length and all tightened down with AN fittings. The half shaft took some persuasion to get seated all the way into the trans, the aluminum dust cup that's supposed to seat against the casing wasn't allowing the shaft to slide in all the way. Beat the cup away from the edge with a rubber mallet, and then slid it back on after getting the shaft in. I was also able to get my IAT sensor to clip in all the way on the harness, my washers were just slightly getting in the way preventing it from seating completely. Got the Ktuned clutch line ran, since the one I had from Downstar wouldn't work with the Ktuned slave cylinder.
Next will be to finish getting the knuckles torqued back down on the front, and then get the new seals installed on the Brembo calipers, and then get the front wheels on. I'm not sure what else I'll get to today, I need to spend at least some time actually cleaning my garage for once.
Got the knuckles torqued back down but that's as much as I'm doing today. Hopefully get the calipers rebuilt tomorrow and start working on getting front brakes + wheels on. Got a funnel to fill up the trans with fluid, will be using Torco RTF.
Not too much left to do as far as installing things before I can start figuring out the meth and alarm wiring, and in general getting the last of the wiring buttoned up and loomed. Only things I'm currently a bit concerned with is getting this aluminum fitting welded to the new Koyo radiator I got for the water feed, was hard to find any shop that would do it and the one I finally did get doesn't inspire me with the most confidence. Hopefully it works out. I'll also need to use some couplers and do some work to get my intercooler pipes to all line up, the last cold pipe going into the manifold may be a bit of a trick.
Just trying to get something done every week so I can finally get the car on the road. I'm really hoping Jeff Evans doesn't retire from etuning before I'm done, lol...
I was actually seriously considering asking if someone here could do it, especially since I still have the original box the Koyo shipped in lol. Thank you for offering.
I dropped off both the Go-Auto and Koyo radiators earlier this morning. The guy who was in the office and the guy who was working in the shop both actually took the time to talk to me for a minute and actually look at the parts I brought in, which is very reassuring. The reason I took both radiators in is especially on the Koyo, the end tank is barely tall enough for the fitting to sit on that side, so they're going to be welding right along the edge which may be tricky. The Go-Autoworks has a little more meat and may be a bit easier, I had two fittings anyway so I'll try both.
Hopefully goes well, if they can get the fittings on the side and not leak then I'll be very happy.
Welds didn't come out very pretty but looks like they were able to get the fitting on both radiators successfully and pressure tested them, so that's great. Funny enough, both of these radiators were new/unused, and the Go-Autoworks one actually had a leak along where the logo tag was welded on the top, so they patched that as well.
I'll take more pictures sometime later. Should have the calipers put back together this evening, but probably won't have the wheels back on until a little later.
Looks ugly but apparently they pressure tested it and it holds, so that's good for me. I'm also going to need to drill out the spot welds and pull that condenser mounting bracket out, since it's right in the way of the bung.
Still dont understand why you just didnt or a vibrant t-fitting at the original drain. Or even a regular npt to 6an fitting on that port
Original drain on the front of the radiator would have made an awkward angle coming off the turbo.
Edit:
Originally Posted by Pepe14
Breh. Why didnt you put it on the other side?
Thats where i put mine.
Originally Posted by Chance EG
Hmm I'd have to get back under the car to see if that would have been a better route. Too late now anyway though lol.
Pretty sure I'll be able to make this work.
Yeah, just looked under the car again and I'm pretty confident I have the fitting in the best place for my application, just taking into consideration the other things I have mounted and located.
Yeah, just looked under the car again and I'm pretty confident I have the fitting in the best place for my application
Wrong idiet, @ls joker had the right idea. Angle was too sharp from the CHRA to where I tapped the bung on the radiator's side. I've since gotten an AN adapter to thread in where the drain plug goes, and am instead using that. Unfortunate since now I have this ugly bung on the side of the Koyo rad, but oh well - I'll just cap it off.
Work has been extremely busy for me for a few weeks now, and there's no sign of it letting up any time soon, I'll be working on projects/server maintenance every weekend at least for the rest of June. Still working on the car here and there, but nothing interesting enough to take pictures of. I'll still be keeping this thread updated once I have something more significant to report.
So far one of my few, but biggest regrets with this build is that I didn't go with a top mount AC compatible manifold. This bottom mount Go-Autoworks RR mani hangs the turbo too freaking low to get a good oil drain, there's no way around it. This is as good as it's going to get, I anticipate issues but there's nothing else I can do outside of trashing the manifold and going top mount, which would require several other changes and I'm not going down that rabbit hole right now. If I kill the turbo within a few/several hundred miles due to bad drain, oh well. This also puts the drain directly in the way of where the hot side intercooler piping needs to go. Not drain related, but I mentioned earlier I had to forgo running an intake on the turbo and instead place a turbo guard, which even that barely fits.
Overall I'm a bit irritated with the Go-Auto RR, I at least wish they'd make some notes about these constraints on the product page rather than pretending they don't exist. I guess I expect too much. Again, I shouldn't have fallen for the bottom mount mantra that used to be preached here so often and gone top mount instead. That'll be an eventual change down the road (top mount).
Front wheels and brakes are on, Honed Porsche kit fitting very well with the 57DR. Should have the rear calipers on tomorrow and probably get the car back on the ground. Finished all my water plumbing, tightened everything down then realized I forgot to put the DEI sleeve on so I'll go back and do that soon. Front and rear trans stiffiners and dust shield installed.
Chase Bays power steering kit doesn't line up the best, still working with that trying to see what's possible. I feel like one of the lines they sent me is too short compared to how I've seen other people install it. Got the coolant overflow bottle in place.
Random Mustang picture. I only received it yesterday after sending the payment 2 months ago due to how long it took the body shop to finish painting and putting on the new hood from when the dealership had the hood fly up on one of their test drives. Has a couple minor issues like power door lock switches not working, and windshield washer and the overhead interior light(s). Radio has no power. It also came with a CEL right off the delivery trailer, and startup/idle issues. Not sure how obvious it is in the picture, but the fender/hood are also blended very poorly.
I feel like these are things you should mention to a customer, but again, I expect too much out of people in 2023. I'll get it all fixed.
That turbo 'guard' isn't going to do anything to keep out any small gravel or other road debris. Pull off that hexagon patterned round of metal and glue on a piece of fine mesh screen at least.
What angle is the AN fitting coming out of the bottom of the turbo ? It looks like a 45'... and if you get a 60' I believe there is room under the compressor cover to pass AND take the dip out of the AN line.
What angle is the AN fitting coming out of the bottom of the turbo ? It looks like a 45'... and if you get a 60' I believe there is room under the compressor cover to pass AND take the dip out of the AN line.
I think it is a 45 on both ends.
Just dropped $70 on two 60 degree to see if there's any improvement.
Came in here to post tryin a 60 degree fitting. Id also suggest removing that coolant t-fitting. In exchange for an -6an t-fitting. Less chance of a failure in the future. Also, aswell youll need a finer screen from turbo guard. You dont want pieces of shredded compressor blades to blow thru your fmic into freshly rebuild engine.
When I first put in the copper T fittings, I wasn't aware at the time that AN T fittings even existed. If a good opportunity presents itself in the future I'll try to swap them out, right now I don't want to mess with it. I'd need a -6AN -6AN -4AN tee.
I just dropped $120 on that turbo guard a few weeks ago and will accept the risk of damage to the turbo/engine should it inhale a rock. Again, something I may change down the line but not right now.
I'm brushing off some of these concerns now because I'm honestly out of ***** to give and just want this thing started and running. I'll deal with the little things later.
I'm "close", but realistically there's still a large amount of work ahead of me. I still need to finish the accessory wiring as well as the meth kit, boost solenoid, wire in the wideband, etc.
05-17-2023, 10:07 AM
Re: Chance EG Build Thread - Restomod With Arashi Turbo, Tucked AC, Etc
