When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Re: B00STD wants a LOT of assistance in making a future EG Hatch Turbo build
Originally Posted by AZ_CIVIC
No, when I street drove the car freeways would be at about 192 to 196. Stop and go traffic it would get to about 202 so the fan would kick on within about 45 seconds the car would be back down to about 196.
When I make full passes at the track I was only getting up to about 199-201. Before I ran the Mishimoto fan shroud it would get up to 208 to 209 in stop and go traffic and the freeway would always be about 200-201.
Back in the day I did a ton of testing with fans, running vertical flow intercoolers for k-series stuff that would allow the intercooler to sit further to the driver side which was a huge help because I had almost full air flow to the radiator when I did that. I also got my manifold, hot side of the turbo, down pipe and dump tube heat coated. All of these little things made differences. When I street drove the car I was all about efficiency, now as long as my car stays pretty cool on passes at the track that's all I care about. My buddy's Integra always has cooling issues especially using those tucked Speedfactory type radiator and smaller fans.
Thats an Integra problem. There is only the opening in the front that is usually totally blocked by the IC. Myturbo EJ8 never had a single problem with half the capacity of a cooling system, even tracked.
Re: B00STD wants a LOT of assistance in making a future EG Hatch Turbo build
Originally Posted by LightningTeg
Thats an Integra problem. There is only the opening in the front that is usually totally blocked by the IC. Myturbo EJ8 never had a single problem with half the capacity of a cooling system, even tracked.
this is the basic reason why i switch to a jdm front end in hopes to lower my temp, even just a little from the opening of the top grill by the hood getting fresh incoming air to the radiator.
Re: B00STD wants a LOT of assistance in making a future EG Hatch Turbo build
Just test fitting the radiator and fan. Seems like it will be tight with a downpipe. Probably going to get new braided clutch line and the slave cylinder with the fitting in the opposite direction to provide more room for downpipe. Also removed fender and started on headlight wire tuck to clean up the passenger side of engine compartment.
Re: B00STD wants a LOT of assistance in making a future EG Hatch Turbo build
Originally Posted by B00STD
Just test fitting the radiator and fan. Seems like it will be tight with a downpipe. Probably going to get new braided clutch line and the slave cylinder with the fitting in the opposite direction to provide more room for downpipe. Also removed fender and started on headlight wire tuck to clean up the passenger side of engine compartment.
Looks fine. You just will need to make sure your downpipe is not "generic", and be prepared to have some trending adjustments. But with that Cincinnati, you look more than fine for most downpipe configurations where the compressor is facing the driver fender
Re: B00STD wants a LOT of assistance in making a future EG Hatch Turbo build
And here is something else to work on, but this will be fun to fix unlike that distributor screw. If you use the Koyo radiator and Spal 13" fan there is interference with the stock overflow bottle. This should be an easy fix however, just need to bend the bracket and possibly cut it down below, remove 1/2" or so and then weld back together. I don't want to use aftermarket overflow.
Re: B00STD wants a LOT of assistance in making a future EG Hatch Turbo build
I ran a water/air separator aka swirlpot with custom overflow bottle attached to it. That made a huge difference to coolant temps on my turbo EG. This was with a Mishimoto X-line radiator and thermostat.
Also ensure that the intercooler end tanks don't block off flow to the radiator (often occurs on Civic half-rad) or minimise this where possible.
Re: B00STD wants a LOT of assistance in making a future EG Hatch Turbo build
Originally Posted by maxwellmercer
Break/cut the rotor off and vice grip the retaining screw, it should come off fairly easy.
Thanks, I broke rotor apart with pliers then just removed the black dust shield. Using the dust shield for another distributor I have. Saving the other distributor for parts.
New distributor:
-Ebay Cardone distributor
-Replaced coil and igniter
-Accel Yellow higher output coil
-Hitachi new Igniter
-New cap, rotor on the way
-Reuse dust shield and cap oring
-Plan to add an extra ground wire to distributor also when making grounds.
. Igniters are actually different slightly as seen in the photo, but they both fit Used thermal paste on new Igniter. Some part numbers you can reference.
Re: B00STD wants a LOT of assistance in making a future EG Hatch Turbo build
Planning on running new higher gauge starter power wire. Sneak peek of what's planned for electrical upgrades. Cleaned up oil leak area and replaced heater hoses. Mocked up intercooler, and oddly, it seems as though it was made for the eg body. I bought this off ebay about 5yrs ago and there alwas no indication it was made for a Hinda. Never used it. It already has brackets welded to it that run along the top in the correct area, so all we will need to do is drill 2 holes and this is mounted. Cant believe the fitment... hopefully the piping we have fits up wasily as well. It does block the radiator but we will see how it goes....
Re: B00STD wants a LOT of assistance in making a future EG Hatch Turbo build
Cap and rotor set came in. I really like this set, it's made in Japan, the cap and rotor plastic is of high quality, and the rotor metal material is 100% brass. Most others have a wierd fiberglass and aluminum (?) composite for the metal material. Around $28 from Advance Autoparts.
Part #: 30102-PM7-305
Description: Cap and Rotor set
Brand: YEC
Made in Japan
Re: B00STD wants a LOT of assistance in making a future EG Hatch Turbo build
Originally Posted by B00STD
Cap and rotor set came in. I really like this set, it's made in Japan, the cap and rotor plastic is of high quality, and the rotor metal material is 100% brass. Most others have a wierd fiberglass and aluminum (?) composite for the metal material. Around $28 from Advance Autoparts.
Part #: 30102-PM7-305
Description: Cap and Rotor set
Brand: YEC
Made in Japan
NOTE: This is the wrong cap and rotor. The cap is slightly too small, and the rotor opening that goes over the shaft is also too small. Have to return and get another. My distributor is stamped D3179 on the bottom so that may be for a GSR or something... to be continued...
Re: B00STD wants a LOT of assistance in making a future EG Hatch Turbo build
Small update, started digging into the wiring more and it has a couple areas that need attention. I'll be running an all new 4ga or 1-2ga (haven't decided) power wire for the alternator, and reconnecting (with solder and shrink tubing) a few wires that weren't properly spliced in the first place. Once complete, I'll retape the harness. The alternator power cable shown below is just hilarious...
Somebody tried to splice together 2 different alternator power cables....but failed. This will be replaced by a new higher gauge, non-spliced power cable.
Re: B00STD wants a LOT of assistance in making a future EG Hatch Turbo build
Originally Posted by B00STD
Small update, started digging into the wiring more and it has a couple areas that need attention.
Just making sure you know all that exposed silver wire is shielding, and from the picture it looks stock to me. Leave it as-is. The yellow wire at the top of the pic though, that should be addressed.
Re: B00STD wants a LOT of assistance in making a future EG Hatch Turbo build
Originally Posted by DaX
Just making sure you know all that exposed silver wire is shielding, and from the picture it looks stock to me. Leave it as-is. The yellow wire at the top of the pic though, that should be addressed.
Thanks, yes the one wire came right off easily and needs to be fixed. There are a couple of others like that as well. I'll leave the shielding alone!
Re: B00STD wants a LOT of assistance in making a future EG Hatch Turbo build
Got some more stuff done today. Worked on new alternator power cable, new hoses, and intake manifold.
Laying out the new 1/0 ga welding cable to replace the existing alternator (+) power cable.
Have to figure out the best route, I'm not sold on this route yet. The alternator power cable will be ran seperate from the oem wire harness as its too big to fit inside, and may provide some benefit from seperating power/signal wiring. New 66mm Skunk 2 TB isblarger than the gen1 Skunk 2 intake opening. Ported it out to match, used new 66mm gasket as template, marked the overhang material with a sharpie. New oem air intake sensor, I copied the trick others have done here shaving down the insulation to provide quicker air temp response for the computer. Hopefully the sensor survived and is still functional! We will see... New Ebay silicone hoses. I buy nothing ebay, but these seem ok.
Re: B00STD wants a LOT of assistance in making a future EG Hatch Turbo build
Thanks some minor trimming needed, and that long hose needs to be turned a bit to clear radiator hose. Only major issue was the short heater hose coming off the firewall leading to on/off valve was not the correct shape. Kinda sucks but for $34 total you cant beat the price overall. Wanted plain no logo black and this worked..
Re: B00STD wants a LOT of assistance in making a future EG Hatch Turbo build
So I think I got that last hose to fit. It required cutting both ends about 1".
Question for you guys:
Does the heater valve supposed to close only 80% of the way, not fully? I don't want to wrap this up until I figure that out. See photo, hard to tell but it's mostly closed say 70-80% closed.
Re: B00STD wants a LOT of assistance in making a future EG Hatch Turbo build
Nice, literally just ordered one of those same heater hose kits yesterday for a build here (as a few of the old OE ones were "suspect") . I would typically just throw in a Mishi set, but they only offer it for the 88-91. I'd call trimming normal, I always end up trimming the Mishi radiator hoses out the box on at least one end.
The "back side" of the heater valve will shut off 100% while the "front side" does not...like in your pic
08-22-2019, 09:58 AM
Re: B00STD wants a LOT of assistance in making a future EG Hatch Turbo build
