TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Or plug it up and use a M10x1.25 to -6AN drain adapter fitting. No need to weld at all on the KoyoRad. I just got my full size in last week, and used the adapter from my old KOYORAD to the new one.

B00STD

Darn it! Should have just done that instead. Now if it doesn't leak, but since it has the hole, I may just get nervous about it and want to fix it.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Yep. Sorry about that chief. I Just don't like additional welds to my radiators unless absolutely necessary.
But I'm sure GAW did fine. Greg does good work, so I'm sure you're good.

For future reference:

Eark's -6AN to M10 x 1.25 adapter fitting

The Vibrant is also available, but doesn't have a rubber sealing gasket within the threads to keep out any fluid going past the radiator.

Vibrant AN to Metric Adapter fittings Part number Part #: 16605

B00STD

My fault, I should have investigated this more up front, and just used an adapter at the drain valve. Oh well, I'll probably pay someone locally to touch it up, just sucks more money..

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Ya live and learn. That's how we evolve..

It's ok to ask about parts of your plan, without being general. I hate giving easier methods when the deed has already been done

Autoworks

You can put the AN cap on, turn it on its side, and pour a cup of water in throw the bottom water outlet via funnel. Every fab part that goes out is covered, just a phone call away

B00STD

Yes sir, I'll be checking it out this weekend. Not a big deal and your customer service has been great. Will definitely be ordering turbo downpipe and other parts from you soon.

B00STD

Quick question on camshafts, is it worth the premium to get skunk 2 Tuners 1s ($500), or even Type R ($275-300), or should I just get some GSR cams ($50-125)? Are we talking a 5 hp difference each step up, or 20+ hp? HP goals are now 300hp to start with, and then 450hp phase 2 later on.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

GSRs will be fine for both goals

Txdragon

I need to find these $125 GSR cams and resell them in my area because GSR cams around me are selling well over the 400 mark..

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Wow, I threw my GSR cams in the trash LOL. You couldn’t get more than $40 or $50 bucks for them out here.

turboLScrx

‘I’ve I got mine setting here just waiting for that desperate buyer lol. J/K. It’s about time to sell them though I guess.

B00STD

Lol...I see GSR cams going for $50-$160 on eBay and the classifieds sites.

As far as determining condition, are you looking for smooth surfaces and darker shades on the metal, or are they ok still once they get to the more chrome look ( seems like a coating wears off or something)? Thanks!

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

late to the party, but i went with the drain plug adapter that was suggested on my new radiator. ive done what you did and it works until i over tighten the fitting on accident twice and had to get that fitting replaced. meaning it had to be cut off and weld a new fitting on. the drain plug fitting is just simple and easy.

B00STD

Yeah that was my bad, I should have researched that more. Thanks for the tip I'll be careful with it!

B00STD

Small update, got the Spal fan and relay kit in. This fan is the perfect size for the Koyo radiator. Great quality units. I filled the radiator with a cup of water and turned it to make the water go to the weld location and it didn't leak which is good news. Not sure how it will hold up under cooling system pressure however, so to play it safe I ordered some Devcon cold weld epoxy for $7. I'll just use that to fill in the hole since it has an operating temp of up to 400 degrees I'm sure it will be fine.




On another note we're restoring other parts of the car. It has a bad oil leak at the notorious location by the distributor. I purchased a golden eagle metal cam seal and I had already purchased a new oem vtec solenoid gasket, so hopefully that will take care of the oil leak. I took off the distributor cap to check things out and I can see oil at the bottom, not sure if this is oil coming from the internal o ring or caused by the other gaskets. Thinking I'll fix the other 2 things, run it, and see if that clears it up. If not I'll have to take out the distributor which I didnt really want to do.





Cap, rotor, wires need replacement so the plan is to replace the cap and rotor with oem style replacements with brass contacts, use a new Accel ignition coil, and use Taylor 409 Race 50 ohm plug wires. I was researching using MSD ignition and coil, but I think we're good just keeping things pretty much oem with a small boost from the coil, wires and brass contacts on the cap/rotor. Should make make it run a bit better.

You can see in the last picture some of the oem bolts have been replaced with stainless bolts, just trying to clean things up a bit and I hate corrosion!! Lol.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

maxwellmercer

If you're resealing all the oil components on that side, why not change the o-ring on the distributor as well? Those are common to leak.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

I would also recommend getting a fan shroud, Mishimoto makes them for a reasonable cost and they do make a difference.

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

maybe its just me but i think those fan shrouds are a joke. you need a funnel like design and not a flat cookie sheet design. from what ive asked, engineers at my job, that square design would create negative pressure on the corners of the shroud. thats where the funnel design comes in since that creates a vortex that covers the entire surface of the radiator.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I have to agree on this. I'm not using a shroud at all. I've found better results from actual air flow through the front end that is channeled properly, over the shrouds. I don't plan on using one on my next setup either.

B00STD

I also agree. I haven't built a turbo car before, but I've been building cars for a long time. There was actually a test performed where they used shroud, no shroud and the no shroud out performed. The reasoning is the airflow through the radiator core while at speed cools better, and as long as the fan covers enough of the radiator it won't matter. Save the money on this for sure, use it to buy the Spal fan.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Well a joke, not sure? I'm not an engineer but I do run a 1200whp turbo car that utilizes a fan shroud, I also have about every sensor you can utilize to measure temperatures and pressures. Now would a funnel type design work even better, probably but good luck finding a way to fit something like this in an engine bay with a full turbo kit.

Let's not also forget when running an intercooler in front of your radiator that is going to cover about 80% of natural airflow and in some cases people have downpipes 1 inch from their radiator not to mention hot turbo's. The flat cookie sheet does however sit about a half inch above the fins allowing a good puller fan to pull that extra heat out.

Again this is not hear say but actual testing done on my street and drag car here in Phoenix AZ where you need every bit of help with keeping a turbo car cool. Now for the OP it is a suggestion, I don't really care one way or the other how you approach your build. If running no shroud works for you and you have no issues with getting hot that is great.

LightningTeg

Is your fan running constantly?

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

No, when I street drove the car freeways would be at about 192 to 196. Stop and go traffic it would get to about 202 so the fan would kick on within about 45 seconds the car would be back down to about 196.

When I make full passes at the track I was only getting up to about 199-201. Before I ran the Mishimoto fan shroud it would get up to 208 to 209 in stop and go traffic and the freeway would always be about 200-201.

Back in the day I did a ton of testing with fans, running vertical flow intercoolers for k-series stuff that would allow the intercooler to sit further to the driver side which was a huge help because I had almost full air flow to the radiator when I did that. I also got my manifold, hot side of the turbo, down pipe and dump tube heat coated. All of these little things made differences. When I street drove the car I was all about efficiency, now as long as my car stays pretty cool on passes at the track that's all I care about. My buddy's Integra always has cooling issues especially using those tucked Speedfactory type radiator and smaller fans.