J. Funk

In the future I would like to do a B Series build. My goal is to have 500whp on pump gas and for it to be very reliable.

LS/VTEC or GSR
Do I need to sleeve it?
Is 1.8L okay or should I bore it?
What pistons and rods would hold up well?
And what turbo would make the power I need?

Any help would be appreciated or maybe a link to a similar build.

boostB4beauty

Anything with that horsepower, will not be reliable....
EVERYONE wants "Power and reliability" but while your HP goes up, your reliability goes down. Are you planning on taking this car to the track? Daily Driver?
Also, it's pretty hard to make that sort of power on pump gas, unless you do an amazing build with the best tuner in the world....even then, thats pretty high numbers.
I'm not trying to burst your bubble or anything, i just think maybe you should shoot for a more realistic build, like 300-350HP.
Either way, If you are gonna do it, I say go GSR, Sleeve the hell out of it and take your choice of many pistons, rods, backed up with the biggest turbo you can bolt on there....seriously....you're gonna need a pretty big Snail to hit those numbers...
GOOD LUCK!!

DA TeG 90

Pick up a GSR motor, or b16 head and b18c1 block.

500whp pump gas? Yes, I would do 83mm Sleeves from Benson, Golden Eagle or Darton.

I would go with CP Pistons and Manley Rods.

for 500whp on pump gas again? Garrett GT35r

BlakeJ53

iTrader: (1)

An LS Vtec will net you more tourqe than the gsr because the crank is 89mm verses the 87mm GSR. But both are great motors so your decision.
I would over bore it to 81.25 so you have a fresh hone and know the piston walls are straight.

Cp pistons and Eagle rod will be fine for your goal. Through out my whole build I continually talked myself in to upgrading everything for " realiablity " and it added up quick.
You do not need a GT35R to hit 500 hp. You can do it on many other turbo's. I have a precision SC 6262 and it will net me atleast 650 whp.
Becasue you live in washington you have acsess to some great tuners ie, Dave Leed and James Kempf. Talk to them about your power goals and see if they tell you to sleeve your block. Most of the time it is not needed for 500 HP, but I did it anyways and now I am happy I did.
500 whp is a perfectly atanable goal with a good tune. 400 to 450 hp is easly acomplished witha good tune on a stock GSR.

CaLi4DooR

Bump i want 450-500 whp to I'm goin to use a b16 i also need help on somethings on my build

hybrdthry911

if it helps you get an idea of what it takes to start a build like this you can check out my thread linked below. hope you realize the time and money it takes so you dont get in over your head. keep in mind you can do all you want but at 500whp level things will break. not to mention its useless on the street.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/508whp-front-mount-turbo-b18-divided-t4-gt35r-17psi-pump-gas-2682577/

atec

We did a build in 2007, and a upgrade in 2009, car has been on the streets since then and beaten up on the track not 1320, but on twisty racetrack :p and over 100 dynopulls all together through the time.

the car is the same you ask for, street driven reliable, and has a fairly easy setup.

B18c-R stocksleeve
•CP pistons
•Eagle rods
•B16A2 head ported by In-Tec Motorsport (stage 3)
•Ferrea valves, retainers and springs
•Custom In-Tec Motorsport cams
•Edelbrock Victor-X intake (stock TB)
•750cc injectors.
•Hondata S300 EMS
•Full-Race prostreet manifold T3
•Garret t3-60-1 turbo
•Pumpgas we have a fairly consistent pump fuel 99octane, the rating is the same as if you had 94 I think. Ill get back to the importance of the fuel
•7psi boost: 384,7whp
•14.5-16psi: 527,6whp(fluctated a bit)

Dynosheet:


car:


It can be done and it can be reliable as far as 500whp on 1,8l is(means do not expect it to run 150k miles.
The main problem is the pump gas you are running, the pump you filled today may not have the same quality as the day you were on the dyno, so I would suggest you to aim a bit lower on pump gas. (I would never run anything over 450whp on the regular 93(98) octane pump. and go have fun at full boost occationally at the racetrack with 110+ race fuel that is known to be consistant when you refill your tank after the dynosession.

The alternative is E85 but I dont know the consistency of this fuel in your country.
Im shure reputeable tuners like Jeff evans, and tony paulo(tony1) knows

extralargenog

iTrader: (1)

This thread is full of so much fail its sad.. EXCEPT FOR THE POST DIRECTLY ABOVE that wasnt there when I started typing this



OP See sig. Im local... PM me.

3 YEARS, same motor... Only thing I had trouble with was keeping a tranny in one piece untill I built a straightcut forged box. I BEAT THE SHIIIIIIIT out of it on the street every tiome its sunny out, at tyhe track.... Everytime I drive it its flogged off the limiter and driven HARD..... BUT I TAKE CARE OF IT AND KEEP UP ON ALL THE LITTLE ****..... Those are the things that will go MILES after the build is complete.....


MAKES 520 ON PUMP/660 on VP... Had to stop as I ran out of MAOP sensor. Going back on the dyno for 700 whp in a bit here. Leed tuned on eCtune

And whoever said 500 is useless on the street... If youre not making 500 at the wheels AND hooking pretty god damn well on the street round these parts youre getting WALKED on.

BlakeJ53

iTrader: (1)

I hardly think my post is full of fail Brian. I atleast told him to get in contact with Leed.

EARLdaSQUIRREL

500whp =
gsr/ls sleaved ( a must for a reliable high hp car)
cp piston/manley rods 83/84mm bore
any b16/b18 vtec head will work
upgraded valvetrain, skunk2 tuner 1 cams
victor x manifold
gt30r should be able to do it, if you want room for more on race gas get a 35r or something equivalent in size
its a must to have a catch can (crankcase pressures will be high)
ramhorn/top mount manifold
3"dp/exhaust
880's/1000cc injectors
stage 5 clutch
hope the transmission handles it

Silva Bullit DC4

Do a search on this FI forum for various builds of that nature, and state what the purpose of the car is gonna be, that will reveal alot more insight relating to other options for your goal. Im sure others will chime in with additional info other than what I have stated. Good luck.

DA TeG 90

OP, have you ever driven a Turbo honda yet? If not, why not do a stock block for now and go for 300-375whp? That will give you an idea of what a FWD turbo honda will feel like. It will also get your build in check and give you more time to save up for when you fully rebuild your block (LS/Vtec or B18c1) and still have fun while doing so? Thats how my build started out, and it was a good choice as now I am building my b18c1 block and if its not ready for April/may of 2010 then I still have my turbo stock block to play around with!

extralargenog

iTrader: (1)

dont you dare get sensitive on me and **** lol.... i wasnt refering to you either...lol

hybrdthry911

527whp on 750cc injectors....

atec

yes.

DA TeG 90

Must be at %100 percent duty cycle then. My brothers 880's were at 95% duty cycle at 506whp...

pgpbubble

what are 680's good till?

atec

75psi fuelpresshure at full boost and around 100% duty cycle yes..