EG-SIXV-TEC

Hi i need help in choosing my subwoofer ive had a single 12 subwoofer for a long time it sounds okay but not boom boom loud for me? the sub is a alpine type R sub 4 ohm wired to 2 ohm i believe and a mono amp.

this is going in my EG hatchback.

i want to also go with 2 10s instead? of only one 12 inch sub.
i want to ask some help before i invest in some subs.
what would be a great combination if i go 2 10 inch subs what would be different to the one sub 12 inch. also im not willing to spend lots of money just something thats good budget thats louder maybe better than my single 12 setup?

ive heard my friends single MTX 10 inch subwoofer before it has way diffrent sounding than my single 12. i think he had a ported MTX 10 subwoofer with a mtx amp.

what i is a MTX 10 inch 5500 i believe like a sledgehammer X 2 in a other custom box. maybe ported. but ive find out that MTX don't make the 10 inch 5500 version anymore looked like on that crutchfield and was like around 50 bucks a pair? what are some good subs that go boom loud and enough for my satisfaction 1 12 is okay but not enough for me. and i also need a amplifier?
pls help me thanks...

ej6fade

do you like burp burp yee ***** what what bass, or are you looking for clean, crisp bass like double bass pedals, metal, rock & roll etc? If you want option A, stick with 1 good 12 or get 2 good 12s if you want to rattle your car and your neighbors windows. If you want option B, clean, crisp bass, only option imo is 2 10's. If you want cleaner, crisper bass notes, you will also want a good ported box. Everyone will have their suggestions for subs, but my vote goes to 2 kicker competition 10's and a quality amp; imo avoid MTX and the cheaper crap. I have 2 kicker comp 10's and a 2 channel kenwood amp wired at 4 0hms and ~375 watts rms, and the crispness of double bass notes and the like are absolutely amazing, and its loud enough to give me headaches if I really turn it up; our cars are little, we don't need 1000+ rms watts of power for a great sounding system. You need to figure out what ohms the subs you want are, rms output, monoblock or 2 channel, etc.

My set up including both subs, ported box for two kicker competition classic 10's @ 4 ohms, kenwood 2 channel amp, speaker wire, etc. was about $380 out the door, nearly $500 including my 6x9's and 6.5"s, which really isn't much for a quality system. My best friend's system in his 300zx was over $5,000 pushing over 2000 watts rms, so under $500 imo is a very budget system.

Edit: Links for the amp I have and kicker subs, might be helpful

http://www.kicker.com/comp
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entert...fiers/KAC-8405

4DoorBoom

A lot of what you want will depend on the kind of music you listen to. Just as ej6fade said do you want "burp burp" bass or smooth and "accurate" bass like in rock music?

For "burp burp" bass:
A bigger size cone (such as 12 inch) will give better lower bass like in hip hop and give you that boom sound. The box has a lot to do with this as well. A ported box will give more output (loudness) than a sealed box with the same power. One drawback is that a ported box WILL be bigger.

For more crisp and accurate bass:
A 10 inch sub will be better in a lot of cases (12 in. subs can also do well) but you may want a sealed box instead of ported. The bass won't be as loud as ported but it will sound nice and be "tighter". Also the sealed box will be smaller because you are using a smaller sub AND sealed boxes in general are smaller than ported boxes.

As for having 2 10's rather than your one 12, I would highly suggest a single more powerful subwoofer. Any info on your amp? Make, model, power specs? Reason for a single more powerful sub is that you can save money on a box (usually boxes for 2 subs are more expensive) and will require less space. Also, wiring is made a lot easier.

I personally have a single 12 inch sub (Fosgate Punch p3) and it puts out more than enough bass. Here is a link to my 89 civic sedan

EG-SIXV-TEC

i listen to rock, heavy metal and some rap/hiphop, dubstep, some reggae bob marley songs. i like to have a boom louder than my 1 12 inch type r sub. or should i have another 1 type r sub. im thinking something different though. with like 2 10s that will be louder than my previous 1 12.inch. my amp is this amp right here

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046

for some reason i am not satisfied i want a louder better setup than what i have now. i want to feel the bass more.

can i keep my amp to get 2 10s.
looking for some 2 10 inch subs amp/combo.

4DoorBoom

A type r sub is in the same league as a P3 which is what I have. IMO instead of buying 2 new subs and a new box, I would look to have a custom box made. A box can make a world of difference. You can do it yourself (I made my box that's in that video for $40) or have one custom made (which will cost close to $200) or buy a ground shaker box which sound pretty good and loud (my brother has one in his 97 civic and he is also running about 500 watts to a Punch P3). Do you currently have a ported or sealed box? A type R sub should get plenty loud for most people.

ej6fade

I always thought that ported boxes were the ones that sound "tighter" providing a more crisp bass note? I'm not arguing your point, just curious if I have been wrong the whole time in my sound system knowledge

ej6fade

Imho, 10's will always sound better than 12's for rock/metal/etc. It is just a more crisp bass note than 12's, plain fact. Louder and how much you feel the bass depends on size/quality of subs/amp/box, and what rms wattage/power. You can have 10's that are louder than 12's or 12's that are louder than 10's, but each will sound and feel different. For example, my friend's system has 2 12's in his car, but when you "feel the bass," it is overall more of a body vibrating/rattling type of feeling, not so much "punch" from the bass, much more "burr", even with rock/metal. In my car with 10's it felt more like someone was giving me a back massage, almost as if lightly punching me in the back, much more "punch" and "defined" bass notes than 12's. Not sure if this will help, but it elaborates on what you might "feel." This is based solely on my own personal experience, so others may have a different viewpoint

Keeping your amp will depend on what ohms, rms wattage that your subs will be, and how you want to wire them.

EG-SIXV-TEC

i want that different punch boom feeling im looking in getting dual 10 inch kicker subs with a box. saw some online with dual comp s built in box. what would be a good amp/kicker series sub.
are those good i think its like 2 ohm or something. what amp should i get for a 10 inch kicker sub? what series are good etc.

4DoorBoom

Well ported boxes CAN offer good punch but it is sealed boxes that are more known for that "punchy" "tight" "accurate" bass. Don't worry about arguing with me cuz I'm no macho know it all. Sound systems vary so much from application to application so we can both be right haha

All of this is very true and a very good summary of the characteristics associated with 10" and 12" subs. That last sentence says it all. If you want more loudness, you need more power, hence a stronger amp. However, if you are on stock electrical, you can only go so far with a new amp. A higher power amp means more strain on your electrical system (alternator, battery) and the side-effects (dimming headlights, battery and/or alternator failure).

Like I said earlier, I would highly suggest getting 1 strong sub. They are made with higher quality parts and simplify installation (smaller box, less wiring headaches). I do my shopping on s0nic EIectronix and I found these subs on clearance (open box) for $69.99 + tax (CA and KY) +free shipping (there are 2 left) NVX VSW 10" Dual 4 ohm. Sonic also has the CompS subs you are looking at on clearance as well and are $5 more expensive CompS 10" Single 4 ohm Voice Coil and CompS 10" Single 2 ohm Voice Coil. Sonic Electronix is also having a 10% off sale on Hifonics amps. I would buy this amp Hifonics X1000.1D and just have gain set a little low which will keep your amp cool and will also leave you room to upgrade in case you decide to get another sub. With these components you will pay about $250 not including a box for the sub which will most likely be in the $30-$40 range for a plain sealed box. Since you are going for more punch I assume you will get a sealed box as they are the boxes that provide more of that punch (as stated in the last few posts). Since you also want more LOUDNESS I am sure you will need a stronger amp. The sub and amp I suggested are good equipment however feel free to go with other reputable brands in a similar power range.

What kind of budget are you looking at?

P.S.:
I highly suggest you look into a Big 3 upgrade to get more out of your electrical system. Your amp will be very happy with you. Read this sticky about upgrading your electrical system if you haven't Power Wire and Fuses / Holders ("what size do I need?")-Big three upgrade pics and details

edzy

So much misinformation in here.

4DoorBoom

Please share your thoughts. OP needs some help and if anything is wrong, I wouldn't want his system to fail him.

My background with my car: 120 amp Alternator (stock is 60 amp for my car), Big 3 in 1/0 awg, 4 awg to my 400 & 500 watt amps, built my own box for my P3, 10 awg to my sub, 12 awg to door speakers. All in my 89 civic sedan and with a resting voltage of more than 15.0v and dips that never go below 13.0v (when car is on. I don't demo or bump with car off. If I do, I'd be screwed after an hour). It is not gonna set a world record but for a complete system that cost less than $800 I think I've done alright.

ej6fade

Then enlighten us. I am not an audio guru, explain, don't just leave a comment

pimpwagon

Thank you edzy.

The size of the sub does not matter for boomy or tight.
The design of the speaker and the design of the box are EVERYTHING.
You could give me an old school 18" kicker comp and make it tighter and more accurate sounding than any random set of 8" subs if they are not designed for your use with a box designed to PROPERLY suit the needs being fulfilled. (use a program like win isd) to make box plans that actually suit the T/S paramaters of the drivers in question.

Other key system building points:

Don't use a capacitor. It won't make up for the fact you are lacking the current to drive your system. (You need a bigger alternator and possibly a better/bigger battery) You don't absoutely need more power if you are using an efficient design. Ive seen 250 watt subs that would make you ****.


Upgrade the big 3. (google it) Proper grounds and power cables here are HUGE in making a setup work well. (4doorboom was right on with this.)

That is the tip of the iceberg.

ej6fade

Thank you for the information. I'm an expert in firearms, not sound systems lol this is great info

4DoorBoom

All of this is very true, however OP sounds pretty set on getting some new 10's which is fine and is why I suggested the new subs. If it were up to me, I would have a custom built box for that Type R 12 and get a new amplifier that will give more headroom (his amp's max capabilities are on the lower side of his subwoofer's watt requirements) and allow room for future upgrade.

I also agree on WinISD because it does let you get a glimpse of your subwoofer performance at different frequencies with different enclosure characteristics. However, for some people that just aren't as involved in the design of a system, this step might seem like overkill. For those more serious about subwoofer performance, these are important, beginning steps.

And yes, there are very efficient subwoofer boxes and people that take many other variables into account to create those efficient systems, but those are for people that are deep into car audio or competing. As you mentioned the proper fulfillment of needs, I don't think the OP is looking to go THAT far to fulfill his needs. I could recommend a Sundown SA series or Fi BL or some other non-mainstream brand, 250A mechman alt. and XS Power batteries, however, those are things above and beyond this specific application. You may know a lot and have a lot of experience but there are people that don't look to go as far as others...if OP is looking for that then awesome, but by the info given and info asked of us, it doesn't seem they are interested in the science and technicalities of car audio.

edzy

Let's start this over

1. What's your budget
2. Model # of your current amp
3. Exact goals. Want louder? better sounding?

92_civic_eg

forreal, way too much typing that im not gonna bother reading for something so simple, answer the 1st and 3rd questions and then we can help you to find a solution.(since you already posted a link to show what amp you have)

I did see that you hae a JL audio 500rms amplifier and an Alpine type R 12, high quality conservative system, very nice.

And something else i happen to see while scimming this, sealed boxes are going to be more crisp, ported boxes are designed for SPL (sound pressure loudness) thats why people use them in competitions