NonovUrbizniz

Alrighty...

I JUST bought a brand new headunit (Sony CDX-M8815X). I've been having problems with my amp... it started out as occaisionally poping repeatedly instead of popping once and powering on... SO after I installed the new headunit I rewired the headunit and remote to the amp and added some more RCA's..

Not 2 days later the amp just stopped powering on.. double checked the remote wire... it had power under 12v... fed the amp remote terminal direct 12v power and it still didn't kick over... the fans turn on and whatnot just no sound or power light....

the thing is like 15 years old at this point I think. It's a JBL gt400 great amp for a LONG time... but whatever it's fried.

SO... I'm going to buy a new amp... the best amp I ever owned was a PPI5175 it was the most versitale unbelievably clean amp ever... but at this point I can't even find one used and the one I had got stolen... Either way the headunit has enough control that I don't need all the tuning features of the PPI...

I have NO IDEA what amp to get... I'd frankly prefer the ease of having a 5-6 channel amp...

Right now I have a set of pioneer front component speakers and a old 12" sub with a busted surround in a sealed box that I got for 15 bucks... I also have a set of Infinity gold kappa 6.1 components in my tool box from like 1994.

I have the money right now to rebuild the system but I'm probobly going to spread it out over time...

Basically I want to know what amps people recomend for clean power that isn't like rediculous expensive... and if getting a 4channel for the front stage speakers and a 2/1 channel amp for the sub is really important or if I can get away with just getting an all in one 5-6 channel amp.

What I was thinking for a system is as follows:
Head Unit : Sony CDX-M8815X
Amplifier : JL Audio e6450
Front Spkrs: Infinity Perfect 6.1 components
Rear Spkrs: Infinity Perfect 5.1 Components
Subwoofer: Infintiy Perfect 12"

Is the amp going to handle all that? and/or will I loose fidelity by having the sub and stage speakers powered by the same amp?

I mean the sony's got 3 preamp outputs so they're isolated from the source should be fine right?

This isn't for competition or anything... I just don't like doing thing's twice.


***CLIFF'S NOTES***

Amp fried.. just bought new headunit... need new amp.

thinking of the following for entire system:
Head Unit : Sony CDX-M8815X
Amplifier : JL Audio e6450
Front Spkrs: Infinity Perfect 6.1 components
Rear Spkrs: Infinity Perfect 5.1 Components
Subwoofer: Infintiy Perfect 12"

Is that stuff all good or should I think about some other options for any of the components besides the headunit.

THANKS!

NonovUrbizniz

Sorry... P.S.

I'm going to be dynamating the WHOLE car so... I really want to get good stuff from the start so I don't end up hearing all the crappy sound that I've been missing behind all the road/engine noise.

LSRracing95

dont waste your money on an e series JL amp. if you want the better end, save for the slash series amplifiers.

Sex Cells

the 500/5 is quite dandy, i have one

NonovUrbizniz

Yeah I was thinking about that but the power ratings seem strange on the 500/5

I mean why is it 100x2 in the front and 25x2 in the rear???

Wouldn't you blow most decent components by running them at 25w???

Sex Cells

you dont blow speakers from underpowering them. generally you want most the power going to the front and little if none going to the back for rear fill (i quit using the rear speakers completly for imaging purposes). i'd just use coax's in the back

LSRracing95

that 500/5 JL amp would be pretty decent for a single amplifer setup.
if it were me id run sub off a separate amplifier, as well as ridding myself of the rear speakers.

fcm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSRracing95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont waste your money on an e series JL amp. if you want the better end, save for the slash series amplifiers.</TD></TR></TABLE> Ditto the above, I would recommend the 450/4 if you want to run front and rear speakers, but find a set of mid-range/mid-bass drivers for the rear, [no tweeters] and depending on what Infinity 12", [12.1, 12.1D, 12DVQ or the 12VQ] the first 2 being 350W subs and the last 2 being 400W subs, but they would all work with the 500/1 although you would have the watch the gain on the amp, also you could use the e1400D for either of the 2 DVC 12" if one of them is the sub you are talking about, the "e" is cheaper then the "/" and is 500W into 2 ohms @ 14.5V, the 500/5 is only 250W on the sub ch. so well under the 350W or 400W needed, so not recommended.

One of the advantages of separate amps for high-pass and low-pass is totally separated power supplies so if you run a power lead for each amp right from the batt. and install a cap on the sub amp, it can't draw down power from the high-pass amps power supply when it starts hitting hard, so the high-pass will stay clean and accurate.
I should also say the advantage of a single amp to do everything, [500/5] is simplicity and cost, you can deff. save a bundle, just find a 250W sub, maybe the REF1040W a 10" 250W sub. 94

LSRracing95

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Ditto the above, I would recommend the 450/4 if you want to run front and rear speakers, but find a set of mid-range/mid-bass drivers for the rear, [no tweeters] and depending on what Infinity 12", [12.1, 12.1D, 12DVQ or the 12VQ] the first 2 being 350W subs and the last 2 being 400W subs, but they would all work with the 500/1 although you would have the watch the gain on the amp, also you could use the e1400D for either of the 2 DVC 12" if one of them is the sub you are talking about, the "e" is cheaper then the "/" and is 500W into 2 ohms @ 14.5V, the 500/5 is only 250W on the sub ch. so well under the 350W or 400W needed, so not recommended.

One of the advantages of separate amps for high-pass and low-pass is totally separated power supplies so if you run a power lead for each amp right from the batt. and install a cap on the sub amp, it can't draw down power from the high-pass amps power supply when it starts hitting hard, so the high-pass will stay clean and accurate.
I should also say the advantage of a single amp to do everything, [500/5] is simplicity and cost, you can deff. save a bundle, just find a 250W sub, maybe the REF1040W a 10" 250W sub. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

couldnt have put it any better, and hey.. i was gonna mention the 450/4 as well. look at that haha

NonovUrbizniz

Alright well I think you guys have convinced me... sort of.

lol... I think I"m going to get the 450/4 and use that as my only amp for now... I'll bridge 1/2 for 300/1 to the sub and use 3/4 at 75x2 for the fronts.

Then when I upgrade the sub and speakers from what I'm running now I'll get either the 250/1 or the 500/1... probobly the 500/1.

LSRracing95

very good choice good luck.
but the 450/4 can be pretty pricey. look around

fcm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSRracing95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">very good choice good luck.
but the 450/4 can be pretty pricey. look around</TD></TR></TABLE>I agree, good choice, and like all the JL "Slash-Series" amps they are not cheep, but you do get what you pay for. 94

NonovUrbizniz

Yeah I've been looking exclusively on ebay after calling around a bit.

I've frankly probobly decided to go with the 300/4... I don't think I really need 150x2 to the fronts...

So for now I'll just run it 75x2 to the fronts and 150x1 to the rear... IF I can set it up that way... the power ratings are listed by channel on that amp ... it's listed as 150x2 or 75x4 in which case it do and I'll have to spring for the 450/4... that thing is still near 500 bucks on ebay.

ugh.

Sex Cells

the 500/5 consists of a class a/b amp and a class d amp for the sub. thats what i'd get. i might be selling mine soon

NonovUrbizniz

Got and installed the 450/4... it's super clean and got plenty of power.

Don't think I'll be getting anything else for a long time

Znypar

... have fun with the dynamat...

lol

8520

^ My fingers still have cuts from two weeks ago

NonovUrbizniz

LOL... yeah I helped my brother do his... it's not that bad.

My buddy has a heat gun too which allegedly makes it MUCH easier.

Znypar

oh i was worried about the stock sound proofing lol. that stuff was horrible to get off my friend's civic.

NonovUrbizniz

I'm leaving it... at most I'll sand it to ensure a good bond. but I'm not removing sound deadening to add sound deadaning... that's silly imo.

Znypar

not necessarily. in civics all that sound proofing stuff is pretty much dead weight. we removed all of it from my friend's trunk and there was no sound difference from the muffler at all whatsoever. i think if you removed it before dynamatting it would be a smart move

nsxxtreme

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> One of the advantages of separate amps for high-pass and low-pass is totally separated power supplies so if you run a power lead for each amp right from the batt. and install a cap on the sub amp, it can't draw down power from the high-pass amps power supply when it starts hitting hard, so the high-pass will stay clean and accurate.
I should also say the advantage of a single amp to do everything, [500/5] is simplicity and cost, you can deff. save a bundle, just find a 250W sub, maybe the REF1040W a 10" 250W sub. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>
note....
This rule requires the amps to have fully regulated power supplies.

If the "sub" amp is able to pull enough current to lower the voltage in the car then this will also effect the other amp that is using the same supply. Having seperate regulated supplies improves transient response.

My personal opinion is you wont hear the difference. I have an old ADS 55x6 in my truck. Sounds great have had it for 13 years.

*edit* I also wanted to add. Connecting a cap to the "sub" amp also connects the cap to everything else in the electrical system.


Modified by nsxxtreme at 10:57 AM 3/15/2006

NonovUrbizniz

OH and I figured I'd also add that there is NO problem for me running my front components and rear 12 off the same amp with stock alt. and normal replacement battery.

Only thing is that I think my battery isn't charging as fully as it used to (could just be age of the battery) because it dies MUCH faster than it used to when I leave the lights on.

But there's no dimming of the lights even at idle with the stereo fully cranked and no sound quality issues that I can hear.

Znypar

im running both my amps off of the stock alternator and standard battery, so im in the same boat as you. im having battery problems as well though, and supposedly my battery is fine (according to tests at advanced auto parts). i got them to charge my battery to full outside of the car, and it fixed the problem so far.

NonovUrbizniz

I'm going to check/charge my bat. this weekend while I'm doing some other stuff to the car... I think that the alt. is just spending too much time powering the amp and not enough re-charging the battery.

I might also see what kind of load the alt. is under when the cars idling and at like 3-4k... then see what kind charge it's sending to the battery too. But I'm prob. going to be focused more on my HID project for now.