ranta18

Previous threads:
Sneak Peak... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1513371
Part 1... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1591359

In Part 2 we will assemble the timing components and clay a piston to check the piston to valve clearance...

ARP head studs and OEM dowel pins are installed and an OEM head gasket is placed on the block:


The oil pump, water pump, and timing components are attached to the block:


The engine is rotated to TDC. A light amount of WD40 is sprayed on top of piston #1 and clay is applied on the piston top and on the valve reliefs:


Assembly lube is applied to the ARP studs, washers, and nuts. The head is placed on the block and torqued down:


Two sets of rockers are assembled so when they are placed in the head they will be locked together as they would with VTEC engaged:


Assembly lube is applied to the rockers and the rocker shafts. The rockers are placed into the head as the rocker shafts are slid in. Only the rockers for cylinder #1 are put in the head as we are just claying the #1 piston. Assembly lube is then spread on the rocker pads and cam journals:


The cams are placed in the head and assembly lube is applied:


The cam camps are put on the cams and torqued down. The timing belt is installed and everything is set to TDC:


Because the head is milled, both of the cam gears are advanced 2 degrees and then torqed down. The valve lash is adjusted to .006 on the intake and .008 on the exhaust:


The engine is then rotated over. After removing the cams and head, the clay is measured. This process is repeated with the intake cam gear at +8 (+6 overall) and the exhaust cam geat at -4 (-6 overall) to ensure we can go that far on each cam gear if needed on the dyno:


We had set a minimum piston to head clearance of .030, a minimum piston to intake valve clearance of .040, and a minimum piston to exhaust valve clearance of .060. The clay measures to be just above those minimums. Now that this process is over, the pistons and rods are removed, pistons taken off the rods, and pistons are sent off to get coated. Once they return, the final assembly will begin. Part 3 will show the final assembly including the distributor, intake manifold, header, etc.


The full story... http://www.rndauto.com/rantabuild.htm




Modified by ranta18 at 9:58 PM 4/19/2006

FLoSSnJERKS

awesome built looking good from here

siphonda

hi good motor y have some h22 twm for sale

4genaccordfreak

absolutely wicked build pics and notes.. i am also going to be doing a similar build to my own h22a (myself).. altho a step down from something that extreme.. more of a rock solid street motor.. Type S pistons, Rocket h22x cams.. etc etc.. since i see you know much of what you are doing.. have you decided to keep you balancer shafts? as ive read up that alot of N/A and boost Apps.. ppl are leaning towards the elimination kits.. rather than deal with the extra reciprocating mass..... what's your theory on that?

amazinspiderman

Great build.
I just read trough the sneak preview, partI and now partII
You make it look so easy i want to rebuild my engine myself
Keep up the good work and tkx for the in-depth pictures and going trough all that work to provide some good info for us

iakona

in for educational pictures!!!
and thanks for doing this in detail. this is great.

jakeiscool

i love h22s

sa90eg

looking really good

Ryu

Awesome build dude

ranta18

I removed the balance shafts in theory. I just cut the shafts and used them to plug the holes near the oil pump instead of buying the plugs, removed the belt and pulley, and rotated the bearings to block the oil. That along with blocking the oil squirter system will raise the oil pressure up nicely. Removing the shafts is well worth it in my opinion.

Thanks guys. I could have gone into more detail with putting some stuff on, but you get the idea. Any major steps I try to take a picture of.

iakona

that's awesome.

i still would have loved to see pics of the Before and After claying.

ranta18

I will have those up tonight for sure.

After cc'ing the head and pistons and measuring the piston to head clearance, the overall compression is going to be around 13.7:1




Modified by ranta18 at 8:26 PM 4/19/2006

ranta18

Updated and more pics added.

iakona

One of my most favorite threads...ever.


Modified by iakona at 11:19 AM 4/19/2006

SteveoBA8

THis thing is gona kick some ***!

mgags7

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ranta18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will have those up tonight for sure.

After cc'ing the head and pistons and measuring the piston to head clearance, the overall compression is going to be around 13.7:1


Modified by ranta18 at 3:49 AM 4/19/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>

what gas are you gonna run?

ranta18

100 octane Turbo Blue Gas

skunked

beautiful

kaoss_11

jealous. Nice build man.

ranta18

Thanks. Part 3 may be a couple weeks. The pistons need to be sent Calico to get coated. In the mean time I'll assemble a few small things and work on the header design. The Hondata S300, P28, and Cometic gasket arrived this week. A few more misc. items and I should have everything needed to start it up. I can't wait. 2 1/2 years in the making and its finally coming together. June BOTI in Joliet is a slight possibility. September BOTI in Joliet is a guarantee.



Modified by ranta18 at 2:12 PM 5/5/2006

hybridcivicex

Very nice, keep us updated.

The Birdman

tuning in cuz I've been stuck on part one drooling.

ranta18

The pistons will be back from Calico next week. I should have my Burns 4-1 collector about the same time.

I have the intake manifold, fuel rail, and throttle body bolted up. The exhaust flange is als on to start mocking up the header. Once I get the pistons, I can wrap up the longblock from the pan to the valve cover. Part 3 should be up on the 14th or 15h.

PoorStreet

great info