Part 1 - ranta18's H22 All-Motor Build
Some of you may remember the sneak peak thread... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1513371
Here is Part 1 of the build.
At this point all the parts are in and everything has been measured. Its time to start assembling the block...
After measuring the line bore of the block it is discovered that the block will need to be line honed. It is sent out to ERL and returns shortly after looking great:

OEM Honda pink bearings are installed:

Plenty of assembly lube is applied:

The crankshaft is set in the block and OEM Honda thrust washers installed:

Plastigauge is applied to double check the oil clearance:

ARP assembly lube is applied to the ARP main studs, washers, and nuts. The main cap is torqued down:

The main cap is removed and plastigauged check for clearance. They are right were we want them (ranging from .0015 to .0019):

The crank is cleaned up and re-lubed. The main cap reinstalled and torqued down. The block is now ready for the pistons and rods:

Assembly lube is applied to the piston pin and then slid into the piston and rod:

The snap rings are installed and the piston and rod assembly is complete:

All four pistons are assembled to the rods and ACL extra clearance bearings are installed:

Before the crank was installed in the block, plastigauge was applied to the crank to double check the oil clearance:

After torquing the rods caps down, they are removed and the plastigauge is checked. They are right were we want them (ranging from .0015 to .0017):

The piston rings are carefully put on each of the pistons:

The rings are positioned in the correct alignment:

Oil is applied to the cylinder walls and pistons rings. A piston ring compressor is used to compress the rings and install the pistons and rods in the block:

The piston slides in perfectly and sits nicely in the block:

Assembly lube is applied to the rod bearings and they are pulled up to the crankshaft:

More assembly lube is applied to the rod caps. ARP assembly lube is applied to the rod bolts. The rod caps are torqued down.

After all the pistons and rods are in the block it is rotated to TDC for a nice view:

Ahhh... 10cc's of compression making piston dome:

Part 2 of the build coming soon!
The full story... http://www.rndauto.com/rantabuild.htm
Modified by ranta18 at 4:53 AM 4/19/2006
Here is Part 1 of the build.
At this point all the parts are in and everything has been measured. Its time to start assembling the block...
After measuring the line bore of the block it is discovered that the block will need to be line honed. It is sent out to ERL and returns shortly after looking great:

OEM Honda pink bearings are installed:

Plenty of assembly lube is applied:

The crankshaft is set in the block and OEM Honda thrust washers installed:

Plastigauge is applied to double check the oil clearance:

ARP assembly lube is applied to the ARP main studs, washers, and nuts. The main cap is torqued down:

The main cap is removed and plastigauged check for clearance. They are right were we want them (ranging from .0015 to .0019):

The crank is cleaned up and re-lubed. The main cap reinstalled and torqued down. The block is now ready for the pistons and rods:

Assembly lube is applied to the piston pin and then slid into the piston and rod:

The snap rings are installed and the piston and rod assembly is complete:

All four pistons are assembled to the rods and ACL extra clearance bearings are installed:

Before the crank was installed in the block, plastigauge was applied to the crank to double check the oil clearance:

After torquing the rods caps down, they are removed and the plastigauge is checked. They are right were we want them (ranging from .0015 to .0017):

The piston rings are carefully put on each of the pistons:

The rings are positioned in the correct alignment:

Oil is applied to the cylinder walls and pistons rings. A piston ring compressor is used to compress the rings and install the pistons and rods in the block:

The piston slides in perfectly and sits nicely in the block:

Assembly lube is applied to the rod bearings and they are pulled up to the crankshaft:

More assembly lube is applied to the rod caps. ARP assembly lube is applied to the rod bolts. The rod caps are torqued down.

After all the pistons and rods are in the block it is rotated to TDC for a nice view:

Ahhh... 10cc's of compression making piston dome:

Part 2 of the build coming soon!
The full story... http://www.rndauto.com/rantabuild.htm
Modified by ranta18 at 4:53 AM 4/19/2006
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DPR did the cylinder bore and hone and decked the block so the pistons were .001 in the hole.
This is just for initial mock up to check the piston to valve clearance. Part 2 will be installing the head, cams, and timing components. A thinner head gasket may be used to up the compression if the piston to valve clearance will allow for it. After that it will be torn down and the pistons will be sent off to be coated. Final assembly will follow after that.
This is just for initial mock up to check the piston to valve clearance. Part 2 will be installing the head, cams, and timing components. A thinner head gasket may be used to up the compression if the piston to valve clearance will allow for it. After that it will be torn down and the pistons will be sent off to be coated. Final assembly will follow after that.
Thanks guys. Desired compression is around 14:1. Part 2 should take place this weekend and I'll have it up as soon as I can.
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From: wEsT of WattS...NoRth oF CompTon, CA
good write up and pics. you took us step by step. makes me want to go put an engine together. very detailed.
I would be more worried about quench clearance than piston to valve clearance. With those pistons only 0.001" in the hole a standard Cometic HG (0.030") will leave you with only 0.029" quench. I know some people have run tighter than that, but for peace of mind I would want at least 0.035" to 0.040". What do some of the experts think? By the way, I am only considering quench clearance if you don't get the head opened up to match the bore AND/OR you have quench pads welded to the head and then machined into a "cloverleaf" pattern as I know DPR is well known for doing......Great build though
Keep in mind that H22 has its own built in quench area in the head. See the pictures of my head here: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1513371 So it will be more than what you were saying.
Thanks for the great comments guys. I'll try to get Part 2 up tomorrow.
Thanks for the great comments guys. I'll try to get Part 2 up tomorrow.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Look'n sick Mike
</TD></TR></TABLE>
very nice....dome
</TD></TR></TABLE>very nice....dome



