[Ennis_D]

iTrader: (1)

First off, I would like to say that my car is not a true ITR. It is a 95 GSR w/ a USDM b18c5 on a Phearable chipped p72. If, because of this, this thread should be moved then I apologize now and will take no offense in it being moved. I just figure with me running the b18c5 you guys from the ITR forum would be able to help me out a bit better than some of the n00bs in the non-ITR forum. So on with my problem...

I seem to be having a problem with my car "skipping" or "hesitating" when I go to start from a stopped point. The skipping/hesitating seems to be more severe when the water temp is cold, between 1,000-3,200/3,500 rpms. The skipping/hesitating does seem to go away a great deal once I have given it more than just enough throttle for daily driving and after the water temp. has completely warmed up. Also, once the car has warmed up to full operating temp, the skipping/hesitating seems to not be present at WOT after the 3500rpm mark. Here are what my thoughts are on the problem:

1. Fouled plug(s)
2. Bad spark plug wires
3. Clogged or bad fuel injector(s)
4. Clogged fuel filter
5. Bad gas
6. Dizzy problems
7. Vacuum problem

Here is what I have done so far and nothing has changed:

1. Fouled plug(s): Plugs were changed 3000 miles ago and were check just last week w/ the recommended NGK plugs for the b18c5 (the ones with the ARRRGGH on the box ha). None seemed to be fouled. Still skipping/hesitating.
2. Bad spark plug wires: Was running OEM plug wires that were god knows how old and have changed to NGK Blue wires about a week ago. Same time that I checked the plugs. Still skipping/hesitating.
3. Clogged or bad fuel injector(s)- From just listening, all injectors seem to be functioning properly. Seafoam has been added to the gas tank to try and clean everything out. Still skipping/hesitating.
4. Clogged fuel filter- As previously stated, Seafoam has been ran through fuel system in hopes of helping this if it were to be the problem. Still skipping/hesitating.
5. Bad gas: Had about 1/8th of a tank of gas that I thought could have been bad b/c skipping/hesitating had been occuring from 1/2 tank (how much I had put in last) to that point. Once again, as previously stated, Seafoam was added to the gas tank to try and stabilize the gas that was in there but nothing changed. Just yesterday, I ran that gas out and refueled with 93 octane. Still skipping/hesitating.
6. Dizzy problems: Havent checked voltage or anything of that nature but have pulled cap off and cleaned off "prongs" (cant think of the correct word right now) to make sure they were clean. Still skipping/hesitating.
7. Vacuum problem: Have checked and double checked all vacuum lines and none are leaking or disconnected.

Now, since I have ran those things through my head and tried to check and correct, I turned to my uncle who is a Master Mechanic for Nissan but has worked on Nissans, Hondas, and built race cars through out his career. He said that it could possibly be a blown head gasket which is allowing coolant to seep into the cylinders causing this problem. No signs of oil around the head gasket on the front but not able to see the backside since the motor is in the car.

I know the car isnt running correctly, obviously because it is still skipping/hesitating. I am turning to you guys to try and give me some insight and pointers of what could be my problem here. I know its not easy to diagnose a car that you are not in front of or that you cant drive for yourself. I have tried to explain the best way possible, give my thoughts, and let you guys know what I have checked and changed along the way. If I have missed something that could be the cause, please feel free to tell me so and I will check it out first thing tomorrow. I would greatly appreciate if this thread could stay here b/c I feel that you guys within this ITR forum are very knowledgeable and helpful when it comes to, maybe not a true, ITR not running right. I want to thank any and every one that has any advice, tip, pointer, or solution to my problem in advance!

NBPdEeCeE

First, I would like to applaud on a well-written post.
Secondly, I've never ran into any problems like this BUT maybe something similar.
My car used to "skip" or "bog" everytime I went WOT and hit past like 4500RPM. I found out that it was the oil getting clogged up up in the oil filter because I hadn't done an oil change in 4000 miles I change the oil and oil filter, lo and behold, everything runs PERFECT !

[Ennis_D]

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NBPdEeCeE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First, I would like to applaud on a well-written post.
Secondly, I've never ran into any problems like this BUT maybe something similar.
My car used to "skip" or "bog" everytime I went WOT and hit past like 4500RPM. I found out that it was the oil getting clogged up up in the oil filter because I hadn't done an oil change in 4000 miles I change the oil and oil filter, lo and behold, everything runs PERFECT ! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow, havent even thought about that. Its been right on 3000 miles since last oil change. Humm...

Thanks for the reply!!!

hypeR speed

i'd look into testing your dizzy... replace cap/rotor and check the resistance of the ignition coil pack and the ignitor which are common spark problems. my car was running fine, then after a wot run it started misfiring, then went completely dead. coil tested fine but i believe the igniter died i replaced with a distributor king dizzy and hasnt given me a problem since

gulftiresinc

you checked map sen??

same **** on are 96 jdm itr run obd1!!

[Ennis_D]

iTrader: (1)

Drove the car today and tonight. Skipping/hesitating seems to be happening when the car is cold. When the water temp gets just above the cold mark, it seems to go away?

An idea about bad rings in one or more of the cylinders crossed my mind today but the car isn't blowing smoke when in WOT or anything like that. Still looking for help/answers here. Thanks guys!

NBPdEeCeE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Trock1029 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Drove the car today and tonight. Skipping/hesitating seems to be happening when the car is cold. When the water temp gets just above the cold mark, it seems to go away?

An idea about bad rings in one or more of the cylinders crossed my mind today but the car isn't blowing smoke when in WOT or anything like that. Still looking for help/answers here. Thanks guys!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hm.. I never drove my car cold before haha, so I might have the same problem too.
Why not just drive the car when it warms up ?

[Ennis_D]

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NBPdEeCeE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hm.. I never drove my car cold before haha, so I might have the same problem too.
Why not just drive the car when it warms up ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have driven the car warm and the skipping/hesitating is VERY faint if not present at all. I would just let the car warm up and then drive it but I would have to be doing more damage to whatever is broken at the moment and end up having to spend more money to fix it all.

Haleiwa-Brando

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Trock1029 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have driven the car warm and the skipping/hesitating is VERY faint if not present at all. I would just let the car warm up and then drive it but I would have to be doing more damage to whatever is broken at the moment and end up having to spend more money to fix it all.</TD></TR></TABLE>

As others have stated, I would check the secondary and primary coils in the distributor.

What I do know, is that the electrical current in any object changes as the heat in said object changes as well. An object from a completely cold state will have a totally different resistance than at a hot state.

How is the battery voltage and grounding contacts in general? Everything making a good solid contact?

I don't think that listening to the injectors is good enough, unless there is a serious sputtering problem through out the whole RPM range. It would be best to check the resistance in each one and see how far apart they are from one another, and how close they are to factory specs. For fun you could hit them with a 12v source out of the car to see if they click open or not.

bigislandc2

yeah you should do all those checks with the ign. system and also do a CLT and compression test. wet and dry.

[Ennis_D]

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NBPdEeCeE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hm.. I never drove my car cold before haha, so I might have the same problem too.
Why not just drive the car when it warms up ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have driven the car warm and the skipping/hesitating is VERY faint if not present at all. I would just let the car warm up and then drive it but I would have to be doing more damage to whatever is broken at the moment and end up having to spend more money to fix it all.

Suck my DX

put a timing light on it...misfires will come up as inconistencies in the lights pulse

ZygSpeed

What makes you think it's not your chipped ECU?

[Ennis_D]

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zygspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What makes you think it's not your chipped ECU?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because it was skipping/hesitating before the chip. It was running on a stock GSR ecu. The chip didnt make it any worse or better.

h8ted ek

could you pull out a code? any cel? tps sensor can cause hesitation

[Ennis_D]

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h8ted ek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could you pull out a code? any cel? tps sensor can cause hesitation</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, no cel