Brake rotor recommendation.
10-12-2006, 07:14 AM
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Brake rotor recommendation.
Guys, its time to get some new rotors for the R. I've had OEM since new and I want to get something nicer. I want drilled or maybe drilled/slotted. Lately, it seems like everyone and their grandma is drilling blank rotors and selling as performance upgrades so I'd like to know what are the good brands out there. Thanks for the feedback.
10-12-2006, 07:31 AM
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Re: Brake rotor recommendation. (crxgator)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> dont waste your money and just upgrade your pads and get blank rotors...</TD></TR></TABLE>
10-12-2006, 07:35 AM
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Re: Brake rotor recommendation. (iperez)
just go to autozone and pick up a set of blanks, they work great. if you search, willard posted a thread about them a LONG time ago which should have part numbers ect 
10-12-2006, 07:51 AM
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Re: Brake rotor recommendation. (iperez)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaa1311 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just go to autozone and pick up a set of blanks, they work great. if you search, willard posted a thread about them a LONG time ago which should have part numbers ect </TD></TR></TABLE>
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=181691
Ali
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=181691
Ali
10-12-2006, 07:58 AM
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Be weary of the Brembo blanks as the hats are not coated/protected from rust. Mine rusted out within a month 
. I wish I would've rattle canned 'em black before the install.
As others have said, just get blanks. I had x-drilled/slotted Brembos that were NOT authentic, meaning that they were blanks and modified after the fact. I had hair-line cracks all over the rotors in under a year with NO track time, just street driving.
. I wish I would've rattle canned 'em black before the install.As others have said, just get blanks. I had x-drilled/slotted Brembos that were NOT authentic, meaning that they were blanks and modified after the fact. I had hair-line cracks all over the rotors in under a year with NO track time, just street driving.
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10-12-2006, 08:24 AM
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I fitted AP Lockheed HTSL (High Temp super Lightweight) front rotors to my ITR, theyre slotted and weigh close to half what the stock rotors weighed. I'm unbelievably impressed with them!!
10-12-2006, 01:27 PM
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Re: (white rocket)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white rocket »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Be weary of the Brembo blanks as the hats are not coated/protected from rust. Mine rusted out within a month . I wish I would've rattle canned 'em black before the install.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wish the blanks were coated.. it's the only reason i'm even considering the drilled/slotted is because i dont want the hats to rust. Never thought about painting them ,seems like a good idea..
. I wish I would've rattle canned 'em black before the install.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wish the blanks were coated.. it's the only reason i'm even considering the drilled/slotted is because i dont want the hats to rust. Never thought about painting them ,seems like a good idea..
10-12-2006, 05:52 PM
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Ok ..
* Regular blanks work just fine.
* Stay away from Brembos, they rust.
* Stay away from home-made Brembo drilled, they crack.
* Stoptech drilled is good stuff.
I really don't want to buy another set of blanks. I was really looking for a quality drilled rotor that performs as-good-as, or better than OEM. What's left ??
BTW, what about price on those Stoptechs ??
* Regular blanks work just fine.
* Stay away from Brembos, they rust.
* Stay away from home-made Brembo drilled, they crack.
* Stoptech drilled is good stuff.
I really don't want to buy another set of blanks. I was really looking for a quality drilled rotor that performs as-good-as, or better than OEM. What's left ??
BTW, what about price on those Stoptechs ??
10-12-2006, 06:01 PM
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As soon as I left my last post, I went to Stoptech's site to check out their stuff. I absolutely loved the "2-piece AeroRotor Kit" for oem calipers which is what I have. However, I almost fell off my chair when I saw the $450 tag for the pair of rotors. Is there any other source to getting these cheaper ??
10-12-2006, 07:19 PM
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Re: (iperez)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iperez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok ..
I was really looking for a quality drilled rotor that performs as-good-as, or better than OEM. </TD></TR></TABLE>
When you refer to "performing as good..." do you mean braking or looks?
The reason I ask is because the right pads are going to give you great braking performance, not the rotor. My car is used exclusively for racing 20-40 minute races (primalrily at Mosport) and I've always used OEM rotors with hawk Blues in the rear and Hawk DTC60's up front. Obviously this combo isn't for the street but the point is that OEM blanks perform very well under incredibly demanding conditions. I've even had the front rotors glowing red in certain braking zones on the track and never once did I get fade. Pads will make an enormous difference.
I was really looking for a quality drilled rotor that performs as-good-as, or better than OEM. </TD></TR></TABLE>
When you refer to "performing as good..." do you mean braking or looks?
The reason I ask is because the right pads are going to give you great braking performance, not the rotor. My car is used exclusively for racing 20-40 minute races (primalrily at Mosport) and I've always used OEM rotors with hawk Blues in the rear and Hawk DTC60's up front. Obviously this combo isn't for the street but the point is that OEM blanks perform very well under incredibly demanding conditions. I've even had the front rotors glowing red in certain braking zones on the track and never once did I get fade. Pads will make an enormous difference.
10-12-2006, 08:22 PM
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Re: (TPB)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TPB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
When you refer to "performing as good..." do you mean braking or looks?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
He's for the bling blang......
When you refer to "performing as good..." do you mean braking or looks?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
He's for the bling blang......
10-12-2006, 08:41 PM
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Re: (iperez)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iperez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As soon as I left my last post, I went to Stoptech's site to check out their stuff. I absolutely loved the "2-piece AeroRotor Kit" for oem calipers which is what I have. However, I almost fell off my chair when I saw the $450 tag for the pair of rotors. Is there any other source to getting these cheaper ??</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had those on the R for 25K miles w/o problems until one finally started to crack. I just need to buy the replacement rotors for the hats.
-Victor
I had those on the R for 25K miles w/o problems until one finally started to crack. I just need to buy the replacement rotors for the hats.
-Victor
10-13-2006, 04:41 AM
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Re: (mugenracer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugenracer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I fitted AP Lockheed HTSL (High Temp super Lightweight) front rotors to my ITR, theyre slotted and weigh close to half what the stock rotors weighed. I'm unbelievably impressed with them!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Just a few questions.
1. What do you do with your car?
2. How much did they cost?
3. Of what material are these rotors made?
I'm not very smart, and I sure don't know everything, but I'm wondering if it's a good idea to reduce the weight or mass of the rotors themselves.
If all of the weight savings is in the hat, then maybe that's OK. As I said, I'm not very smart but it seems to me that you would not want to concentrate the heat load of heavy braking onto a reduced mass rotor, but I'd love to hear the theories involved with this if smarter people can enlighten us.
How long have you had these things?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iperez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I was really looking for a quality drilled rotor that performs as-good-as, or better than OEM. </TD></TR></TABLE>
In theory, drilled rotors are not going to perform as well as solid rotors for almost all of us. All you are doing is reducing the effective braking area that the pads can grab hold of.
Drilling and slotting started decades ago when brake pad compounds would build gas between the pad and the rotor, forcing the pad away from the rotor under extreme load and thereby reducing braking efficiency.
Brake compounds have come a long way since then, and most of us who track our ITR's are going to tell you that it's a waste of money drilling or slotting rotors, and you run the risk of reducing your braking efficiency while raising costs at the same time.
Maybe I'm just too old fashioned, or too dumb, but I don't see any point in fancy rotors unless you are determined to do your high performance driving in heavy downpours.
Just a few questions.
1. What do you do with your car?
2. How much did they cost?
3. Of what material are these rotors made?
I'm not very smart, and I sure don't know everything, but I'm wondering if it's a good idea to reduce the weight or mass of the rotors themselves.
If all of the weight savings is in the hat, then maybe that's OK. As I said, I'm not very smart but it seems to me that you would not want to concentrate the heat load of heavy braking onto a reduced mass rotor, but I'd love to hear the theories involved with this if smarter people can enlighten us.
How long have you had these things?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iperez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I was really looking for a quality drilled rotor that performs as-good-as, or better than OEM. </TD></TR></TABLE>
In theory, drilled rotors are not going to perform as well as solid rotors for almost all of us. All you are doing is reducing the effective braking area that the pads can grab hold of.
Drilling and slotting started decades ago when brake pad compounds would build gas between the pad and the rotor, forcing the pad away from the rotor under extreme load and thereby reducing braking efficiency.
Brake compounds have come a long way since then, and most of us who track our ITR's are going to tell you that it's a waste of money drilling or slotting rotors, and you run the risk of reducing your braking efficiency while raising costs at the same time.
Maybe I'm just too old fashioned, or too dumb, but I don't see any point in fancy rotors unless you are determined to do your high performance driving in heavy downpours.
10-13-2006, 05:23 AM
#18
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blah....surface rust on the rotor hat.... if and how this affects performance is really not an issue.
The OEM rotors rust at the hat too.
If you're worried about the rotors going brown, then be sure to get new ones before you enter the car show....
Another altrom (Canada's version of Autozone parts - sort of) rotor user here.... But I admit to lusting after 2pce rotors with alum hats....the wallet doesn't agree so I'm cool with it.
The OEM rotors rust at the hat too.
If you're worried about the rotors going brown, then be sure to get new ones before you enter the car show....
Another altrom (Canada's version of Autozone parts - sort of) rotor user here.... But I admit to lusting after 2pce rotors with alum hats....the wallet doesn't agree so I'm cool with it.
10-13-2006, 08:02 AM
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Re: (RagingAngel)
What is wrong with you guys?
Who cares about rust on the rotor hat? It's "normal".
Being happy and impressed with a rotor that a) weighs considerably less than a blank/oem rotor and b) is slotted... what are you, mad? Those are two things I WOULD NOT WANT in a rotor. I want as much surface area as possible to use for my braking surface and also something with more material (i.e., weight).
I just don't get you guys.
I cannot understand spending 80/each on a rotor, or more, with a stock caliper setup. (or stock sized caliper like the spoon calipers) Unless you like wasting your money, that is.
And if you really get upset about a little rust on a mild steel rotor hat, maybe you could go get some high temp paint. its surely cheaper than getting something with an Al hat or some two piece rotor.
I will never, ever, ever understand you people and your obsessions with slotted/drilled/lightweight and/or multi-piece rotors.
I'll take my $20/each rotors, thanks very much.
I agree with George. I am not all knowing, but..... you guys sure love to waste money on an inferiorly performing product.
Only reason to buy that stuff is for car shows. or to take great pictures and post on honda-tech so you can have some friends and "mad props".
Who cares about rust on the rotor hat? It's "normal".
Being happy and impressed with a rotor that a) weighs considerably less than a blank/oem rotor and b) is slotted... what are you, mad? Those are two things I WOULD NOT WANT in a rotor. I want as much surface area as possible to use for my braking surface and also something with more material (i.e., weight).
I just don't get you guys.
I cannot understand spending 80/each on a rotor, or more, with a stock caliper setup. (or stock sized caliper like the spoon calipers) Unless you like wasting your money, that is.
And if you really get upset about a little rust on a mild steel rotor hat, maybe you could go get some high temp paint. its surely cheaper than getting something with an Al hat or some two piece rotor.
I will never, ever, ever understand you people and your obsessions with slotted/drilled/lightweight and/or multi-piece rotors.
I'll take my $20/each rotors, thanks very much.
I agree with George. I am not all knowing, but..... you guys sure love to waste money on an inferiorly performing product.
Only reason to buy that stuff is for car shows. or to take great pictures and post on honda-tech so you can have some friends and "mad props".
10-13-2006, 08:15 AM
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Re: (Chris N)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Only reason to buy that stuff is for car shows. or to take great pictures and post on honda-tech so you can have some friends and "mad props".</TD></TR></TABLE>
there is a new term the yougins use nowadays to describe that...
"Hard Parking"
Only reason to buy that stuff is for car shows. or to take great pictures and post on honda-tech so you can have some friends and "mad props".</TD></TR></TABLE>
there is a new term the yougins use nowadays to describe that...
"Hard Parking"
10-13-2006, 08:28 AM
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Re: (Chris N)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Man... Marc, you are so in touch with the youngins...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
this sounds like a felony in all 50 states, except kentucky... i believe
lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>
this sounds like a felony in all 50 states, except kentucky... i believe
lol
10-13-2006, 12:53 PM
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Alright, you've convinced me.. As much as I like the drilled rotor look, I am more interested in good performance. I'm going to stick with my OEM rotors. So, new plan, resurface (is that the correct term ?) my oem rotors and upgrade my pads ..
So, here's the new question: which pads are a good choice for daily driving and weekend trips to the circuit ?? Or, should I just stick to my OEM pads ??
I am looking at StopTech Stage 1 Brake Upgrade which is really stainless lines, Motul brake fluid, and "street" pads.. any feedback on this package ??
So, here's the new question: which pads are a good choice for daily driving and weekend trips to the circuit ?? Or, should I just stick to my OEM pads ??
I am looking at StopTech Stage 1 Brake Upgrade which is really stainless lines, Motul brake fluid, and "street" pads.. any feedback on this package ??
10-13-2006, 01:29 PM
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Re: (iperez)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iperez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright, you've convinced me.. As much as I like the drilled rotor look, I am more interested in good performance. I'm going to stick with my OEM rotors. So, new plan, resurface (is that the correct term ?) my oem rotors and upgrade my pads ..
So, here's the new question: which pads are a good choice for daily driving and weekend trips to the circuit ?? Or, should I just stick to my OEM pads ??
I am looking at StopTech Stage 1 Brake Upgrade which is really stainless lines, Motul brake fluid, and "street" pads.. any feedback on this package ?? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Stoptechs are good stuff. Axxis ultimate has a really good feel of modulation. Instead of running the Motuls 5.1 I use ATE superblues. Not sure if you need the brake lines though. This is a daily driving feedback.
So, here's the new question: which pads are a good choice for daily driving and weekend trips to the circuit ?? Or, should I just stick to my OEM pads ??
I am looking at StopTech Stage 1 Brake Upgrade which is really stainless lines, Motul brake fluid, and "street" pads.. any feedback on this package ?? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Stoptechs are good stuff. Axxis ultimate has a really good feel of modulation. Instead of running the Motuls 5.1 I use ATE superblues. Not sure if you need the brake lines though. This is a daily driving feedback.
10-13-2006, 01:44 PM
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Re: (iperez)
The amount of money you spend in resurfacing your rotors you can go down to Autozone and get rotors for $25 each.
Also, I think one of the cheap brands of rotors have a year warranty. So when I was racing and whenever a rotor cracked or started to look bad, I just switched it for a new one. Basically, I was able to run new rotors almost all season.
Also, I think one of the cheap brands of rotors have a year warranty. So when I was racing and whenever a rotor cracked or started to look bad, I just switched it for a new one. Basically, I was able to run new rotors almost all season.