raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

theres tons of threads here that pretty much cover the whole service manual. AKA. people just throwing random ideas about what can be wrong..

heres an issue.
I went through everything twice up and down this ****** car. and it keeps thworing small little problems at me every week theres a new issue ...

last month it was oil leaks suddenly developed from everywhere. and I mean everywhere. oil pan oil drain plug oil filter and breather box. right after I fixed the oil leaks from dizzy and vtec solenoid.

once I fixed the oil leaks suddenly the car is very sluggish at low rpm like it really sucks ***. just doesn't go. and then chokes out of it slowly and acts like a normal gsr

I literally replaced everything twice. map sensors ****** throw them at it. coils I have 5 good ones TPS sensor brand new NTK o2 sensor new plugs wires coil cap rotor good compression good wire harness
good battery all ground points are clean and measured... everything that I can think of is good. but it still acts like a cracked out stripper

I was driving it all day with no problem. then suddenly it decides to be a bitch and start choking about half way to my house literally like that. one light was fine and on the next light I tried to accelerate a bit quicker and it just didn't go anywhere. and its been like that since for 2 days now.

once in a while it will throw some codes. o2 sensor slow response which is stupid because its brand new and correct part number.
the downstream o2 sensor had damaged wires so I disconnected it for a while to test if it eliminates the previous problem which was a major lean spot at around 2500 rpm ( no idea if its still there or not because now its just sucks *** all throughout the low rpm)

is it possible for a shorted o2 seonsor to damage ecu circuit? or sensor heater circuit? both o2 heater circuits test normal voltage and ground btw

im just so ****** tires of these little *** problems. my last car had a persistent bad idle for unknown reason. nobody could get it to stop lean post start. rich tuned 3 times and still same
this one had 2 engines and both had same lean spot with completely different ecus and headers and pretty much everything except the car itself.
that's why im suspecting an electrical issue but where the **** can it be everything I check looks legit...

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

What exhaust manifold are you using?

Is your ecu OEM or chipped?

How is your exhaust system setup? OEM? Aftermarket? Custom pieced components put together?

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

421Dc header tanabe ws2 catback
stock obd2b ecu
Engine was rebuilt a year ago. Had no problem like this until it started few days ago.
Great compression timing check once a month. Belt not stretched.
All injectors fire. Fuel pressure set up at 54psi and all plugs and exhaust valves look like they are lean
open loop is normal tho. it runs at 13-12.5afr during wot. So its getting fuel
Just for some reason not in low rpm. Scangauge shows correct voltage for both sensors tho.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

O2 slow response codes can also be caused by exhaust leaks or a bad catalytic converter. Are all your exhaust gaskets good and have you inspected your cat. conv. lately?

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

yea I just checked it 3 days ago. cat looks clean all the way through.
I cant feel any leaks when car is idling.
how do I check when its running?
the only leak I could suspect is the donut gasket. but that's brand new also.

as I mentioned in other thread. afr is on point everywhere else.


how can you explain the complete *** sucking that I experienced when I stepped on it right off the light? its open loop. o2 and exhaust leaks shouldn't even matter when WOT...

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

what bothers me is:

if its a false lean created by the exhaust leak. it should be dumping fuel and I would smell it in the exhaust. and my exhaust valves would be black instead of white and also spark plugs would show rich condition instead of lean

this is actual lean condition where all signs are there, spark plugs exhaust valves, sluggish acceleration when it goes lean. but what causes it I cant ****** figure out.

I mean I literally went through everything

2 obd1 gsr ecus. still has lean spot
obd2 gsr ecu same
new plugs cap rotor coil ignitor engine harness O2 sensor cat map,TPS,IAT IACV injectors timing good valve lash is dead perfect by now.
old spark plugs show lean new spark plugs show lean after a day of driving
oil pressure is great, fuel pressure is at 43.5 psi and doesn't seem to drop out of norm. new fuel filter correct fuel pump this time.
I water tested the header for leaks twice.
pressurized the exhaust with my compressor at about 40 psi no leaks anywhere evenw hen I wiggle the header and donut gasket
voltage is at 14.4 all the time.
im literally out of ideas.
this **** should be running like a fn type-r after all this troubleshooting because everything else is perfect...

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

funny thing.

again I replaced something and the car runs better
second day driving with a new distributor.
(im borrowing one from a friend to test a known good working dizzy)
even though I replaced cap rotor coil and ignitor twice in the original one

all the pickup coils measure exactly same and all within oem specs when measured.
no broken wires inside or outside. all connectors are tight on there I checked every one no wiggly anywhere.
but I have no delay in acceleration now since dizzy was replaced.

just like every other time. can it be coolant sensor even though the temperature shows always consistent in the scan gauge?

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

So you swap out a distributor to test if your original one, which you knew to be good, was properly working?

Regarding the coolant sensor : Unless you've personally damaged the coolant sensor or installed it incorrectly when you rebuilt your engine, it should be fine.

Maybe this whole time, regardless of your diagnosis, what you thought to be a lean mixture condition was just an ignition misfire due to the distributor you originally had?

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

its lean: spark plugs exh valves, scangauge o2 voltage, wideband readings...
pretty positive its lean condition
but so far I had no problems with the new dizzy.
donno how da fuq this is possible, new accel coil, new autozone coil, good used oem coil from my other car.
2 working ignitors both were used on my other car
all pickups were within specs dead on actualy.
yet for some reason it fixed the issue its been 3 days and it hasn't come back I hope im done with this sht finally

blackeg

i know i recommended this before but its worth mentioning. this happened to me like 2 years ago. it was the wires in the chassis half of the rear o2 harness had worn the sheathing down and were grounding out on the chassis. it was the most obscure thing.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, he's already mentioned having a similar issue and says he's fixed it, but wondered if the shorted o2 sensor could've ruined the ecu.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

Well so far so good. No ptoblem. But my rear o2 have been disconnected also until i get a new one with no exposed wires

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Why not just repair the frayed wire and insulate it if the sensor itself is still good?

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

its right at the sensor. some idiot(previous owner) scraped it on something I tried to put tape on it already but its no space. I might have a new one laying around somewhere

blackeg

thats more common than you think for those rear sensors. get that liquid electrical tape stuff and toss a nice blob of it right where the wires meet the sensor. after it hardens up you can wrap it in electrical tape to help protect it and keep everything in place.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

ok so the only thing I could find wrong with that distributor is open wires at the grommet when they go into the dizzy

blu/yel CKP in
blu/grn CKP out

and one more wire that I forgot color. they were open but not touching.
I put some liquid tape on them

does that sound like a legit reason to be having this issue or no?