balleur

Anyone else have any other Ideas? I'm
Having the same issue with my integra
Car seems to pull hard to the right when enough brake pressure is applied, I've checked the pads and rotors and they seem fine so a sticky caliper seems unlikely

avoid

I just went through the same popping problem and it was a brake caliper boot that melted. l guess the piston was popping and seized up but i was able to use a c-clamp to push it back but it would not go back on its own while driving thus killed a set of pads

long story short for me my popping noise was the caliper. I put new pads in w/new caliper and the noise is gone. So check your calipers

LOWLUDE22

Did it just recently start... first thought would be brake pad movement in the caliper. The reason I say is because you hear it after backing up then going foward or vise versus, what happens in this case is the tab of the pad itself that sits inside the brake caliper has a very small amount of
slack in between it and the caliper mounting position..the pad is grabbing the rotor when forward or reverse and moving the full amount allowed in the caliper mount, then when you change directions and the brakes are applied the pad grabs and is moving toward the other end this time. hard to describe in words but I have worked for a Honda service dept for 8yrs and its a very common complaint from people and is usually described exactly as you stated. There is actually a honda service news that noted you can take a business card and stick a piece of it between the brake pad tab and the caliper area where normally you would put anti seize or brake pad grease and the noise will be eliminated for short time until the card eventually breaks down and disapates
**If you were to kneel down and look at your brakes fully mounted, the tab that is on both top and bottom of the pad is where the slack is, slide you a piece of a card in there on both inner and outter pads on the very top and bottom part of the tab, then test drive..hope this helps

Wayne D. Miller

I know this is old this is more for anyone who is looking for this problem now. I have seen Pistons actually going on even I am an ase-certified master technician butt with everything that you are explaining throughout all these post it sounds to me like your strut grommets or your bearing plate on your strut mount could very likely be bad when you're in reverse the suspension on the Springs raises so the spring isn't twisting it just going up releasing pressure but if you're going forward even a couple miles an hour is enough when it's a couple thousand pounds but a spring sits in the bottom plate of the chef and if the rubber goes bad or the plate then when you hit the brake it could pop out of place cuz when you compress a spring that naturally will twist this is why there is a Groove to keep it from doing that and then when you release off the break the weight goes off but that's only to factory ride height soda spring is actually still compressed enough to where it won't relieve the tension from when you applied the brake and it popped. When you hit the gas again your front end raises up more than normal and this allows the spring to expand more than Factory ride height which gets the weight off of the front Springs so they can extend out more than they do at ride height and this allows the spring to basically untwisted so without looking at it a pop noise can be 30 different things! But I hope at this fixes it for you I see this problem all the time expecially an older struts or cars that have been lowered or raised with a factory equipment. As for the top bearing plate and your strut mount it has bearings in it just like it sounds like wheel bearings and once they come out the other ball bearing can move around and it becomes harder for it to turn ***** end up popping because it's Channing it is likely until it gets extremely bad that you would only hear the noise from this and not feel it in the wheel because you have power steering. Let me ask you this when you are at low speeds does it feel like your wheel is nice and easy to move but at higher speeds it feels like it tightens up just a little bit if so could very likely be the struts it's a stretch I knew who seeded the springs for you and did they put all new rubber bushings and grommets and the spring because there is rubber that goes in between the screen and the plates so it doesn't squeak and it also helps grip it into place if they put it in wrong which is extremely hard to do because it's molded to the plate so it kind of fits in perfectly then even brand new struts can pop Because unless you buy a fully assembled strut spring bearing plate and shock to form a complete brand new strut then you only got the shock portion of the strip new and whoever compress the spring used the old spring and the old rubber bushings and Gromit and most likely bearing plate so technically you would only have new shocks not struts. You would know this because struts that come with Springs and bearing plates fully assembled are hard to find even most dealers have you order them both separate + assembled . AutoZone you can get them but I have never been to one that has them in stock you have to order then. Every time I have had to replace astrit I always get a new bearing plate and new bushings and grommets. I only get new Springs when they are needed Because unless you were really hard on your car they will last a while. It is easy to check this push up and down on rear or front end whatever you think needs to be replaced and get it Rockin once you let go the car should not rebound more than once that means when you release your hands the spring will push it back up 2 ride height and stay there. Springs control ride height and the shock part controls spring rebound. Basically as your strut compresses your shot is slowing it down to not bottom out then your spring pushes the car back 2 ride height but they are under severe tension so the shock also helps to slow the spring down as it rises so your car does not fly up too fast and damage the strut. Most structure oil and there's 80 bitty holes inside of them so when the Piston slides down the oil can move into the next chamber freely but is restricted to a limited amount of flow because of all the holes

Retalak

Sorry for bumping such an old thread, but I found that it was because Autozone did not lube the back of the brake pads when they replaced them. Technically not harmful, but will cause this annoying noise. This was on a 2006 CRV.

tamboo

pulling left or right while braking can also be bad ball joints.
fun times when one of those gives way.

What happens when your lower ball joint breaks (not fun!)

Stoneheng

I had the same issue on my Dodge caravan. I used caliper grease to fill the slide bolt fittings and greased the brake pads and contact points of the caliper to the pads problem solved. Cost $5 and 30 minutes.

jimmy showtime

Solved this exact problem.. Shim's were warped.. Needed new shims, a shim kit, fitting kit, and slide pins.. Also double check your lug nuts.. you may be getting bad contact.. I had to order a whole new set.

89brokendownEF

​​​​​​​ didn't mean to jack on your thread but what AutoZone do you go to the changing brake pads. Lol