KidKavika

So this is my little write up i made yesterday but didn't end up posting it till today so here it is! My step by step way of removing the brake master cylinder and replacing it for a new. Or in my case a used OEM one off a 94 from the junk yard. Now just to let you all know when i am working on the car i address the left and right side of the master as if you were standing at the front end of the car working on it. Its just easier to follow this way for some people. Rather than calling the passenger side the right side witch it "technically" is but anyways here we go.

The red arrow is the area where we are working.


Unplug the black and green wires for reservoir level. They just pull apart, use two hands and be gentle. The black booted part is where you will be pulling apart. If they dont wanna come apart slide the weather shield back on the wires and get a lil flat head screw driver to pry back the metal clips. most of you will get lucky and they will just pull right apart.


Since you are still on the right side of the master remover the right side brake line from the master cylinder. Its is important that you get the lines broken lose without stripping the bolt. For this you are supposed to use a 10mm flare wrench. You can buy one from a auto parts store for about 5 bucks if you have to. Mine ended up stripping out because it was a shitty brand. So i used my adjustable craftsman wrench because of the thicker walls it has on it, it somewhat prevents stripping compared to the 10mm craftsman wrench i have that would FORSURE strip it.. as you can see from whoever did the removal in the past they used a normal wrench and stripped one of them slightly. hah

Now on the left side, same procedure.. I did forget to mention that its a good idea to have a shop towel/hand towel to catch the drips that fall out of the master cylinder line holes when its removed. don't worry its nothing crazy, just drains out a lil brake fluid when you remove the two lines. Place the towel under the master cylinder before you brake em lose.

Remove the two 12mm bolts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster. Then all you need to do at this point is pull the master out of the brake booster whole and it will slide right out. Remember to keep that towel on the bottom of the master so you dont drip brake fluid onto your paint. Brake fluid eats paint just to let you all know. if you drip any on your paint wipe that **** off real fast!!

Now if your new master cylinder doesn't come with a new brake fluid reservoir you'll need to remove this one 10mm bolt holding the reservoir onto the master. Its a good idea to dump the brake fluid before you pull the reservoir off the master cylinder so you don't get fluid all over your hands. To separate the two just twist the reservoir back and forth till it pops off the master cylinder. DO THIS STEP OUTSIDE OF THE ENGINE WHEN THE MASTER CYLINDER IS REMOVED. This prevents brake fluid from going all over your engine bay.

Here is a photo of the replacement. Right side of the mastrer cylinder

And the left side. I also sprayed the outside of the replacement master cylinder with some brake clean to get it all nice and shiny again. I just forgot to show pictures of it all cleaned up.


If your old master cylinder gasket gets stuck inside the brake booster hole like mine did get some needle nose pliers or even just a screw driver and pry the little black circle gasket out of the brake booster hole. The black arrow is pointing at the gasket.

When i was at the junkyard getting my replacement master cylinder i also cut the brake lines so i could use them to bench bleed my replacement. Heres a photo of the lines. Also the lines actually are two different thread sizes just to let you guys know.

A photo of the old and the replacement.

Now when bench bleeding a master cylinder the idea is to get all the air out of the pump and have only brake fluid. How this is done is simple. Just get two brake lines like i did here and run them into the master cylinder preventing air from getting back into the master itself. To do tis just fill the master with brake fluid. push in the pump side where you pedal would be. Red arrow is the part you need to push in like a pump. Just palm it and push it in as if you were pressing on your brakes. Now the idea is to draw in the fluid so what you have to do after you push in the pump and before you release the pump out hold your fingers over the two brake line holes so you draw in only fluid not air. Its important NOT to let the master run dry while doing this. ALWAYS top off the master when you draw in the brake fluid. Just keep as much fluid in it as possible. Overflowing is better than running it low and having to start over. If this makes any sense.. I did it without the reservoir on the master also so it made it a lil tricky but a lot easier to use my lines rather than the finger method but both ways work so what ever way you chose to do it is fine. Heres a photo of the way i did it.

Now at this point all you need to do is install the opposite order you removed it. Its also a good idea to bleed the lines once you get your new master cylinder installed. This ensures that you don't have little air bubbles floating around in your brake system. This is a very simple task and if done right it will save you from creeping forward or backwards while applying your brakes due to the old master cylinder not doing its job correctly. Also bleeding correctly will give you more of a solid pedal feel instead of a spongy feel with air bubbles in your lines.

Well this is my HOW TO REPLACE A BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER on your integra. I believe the procedure is the same for DA's and up but i could be wrong. ALSO if ANY of you see anything i messed up on just let me know so this post can be as accurate as possible and hopefully help anyone in the world that runs into this problem. Feel free to ask me questions or whatever if you're stuck on a step! PEACE GUYS! Be safe while doing this. Now im not responsible for anyone that messes up! lol GOOD LUCK!