VTECth1s

i have a 1994 integra with LS/VTEC(B18B1/B16A), OBD1 car and OBD2 motor, im currently running a P72 ECU, now i can't remember if the ecu is OBD1 or OBD2, because i need a gsr distributor just don't know which one i need, is my ecu an OBD1 or OBD2. Help!? THANKS!... btw could you possibly run an OBD2 block with a OBD1 head or can it only be OBD1 w/OBD1 or OBD2 w/OBD2.

akstunt600

it does not matter at all which dizzy you use, as long as its b-series ob1 or 2

for example.. when doing an ls vtec u can use the stock ls dizzy and run either obd 2 or obd 1.

btw, there is an obd1 and 2 p72 u have to look at the plugs on ecu, if u dont have a jumper harness u have an obd1, which is a better power platform anyway

yes, obd1 and 2 heads are interchangeable. just vaccume lines differ on the intake mani

VTECth1s

i am clueless how the jumper harness would look?, the person who put the on the current dizzy used an LS dizzy and had to fabricate it to fit on, and told me i needed the gsr dizzy instead, and had put the LS temporarily, i assume for driveability of the car, and now the car is throwing a CEL code plus a slight oil leak coming from it as well, don't know how or where it was fabricated to fit on, but its on there some how. , if i can find out pretty much what obd my ecu is then i'll be able to move on gettin the right stuff. Thanks!

akstunt600

again obd doesnt matter just buy a gsr, it doesnt matter

DONT BUY and obd0 thats the ONLY one that wont work

u have to cut one of the sides(aka the ear) where the bolts for the dizzy go into the head for the ls to work that is it though

but if u must know a jumper harness plugs into ur existing ecu plugs and all the wires are gennerally grey and then the ecu plugs into that its about a 4in long extension of wires for the ecu

VTECth1s

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akstunt600 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">again obd doesnt matter just by the gsr

u have to cut one of the sides where the bolt for the dizzy goes into the head for the ls to work that is it though

but if u must know a jumper harness plugs into ur existing ecu plugs and all the wires are gennerally grey and then the ecu plugs into that its about a 4in long extension of wires for the ecu</TD></TR></TABLE>

There u go thank you!!, is there an advantage of having either ob1 or 2?, right were you say cutting is needed for the LS, thats exactly what the guy did, and it wasn't done right, because its throwing a CEL code and slightly leaking oil, and he himself said the dizzy is the problem. Now with a gsr dizzy i assume there isn't any fabricating needed? Thanks!

akstunt600

what code????? u should check that b/c no wiring or anything that would trigger a code is involved at all by chopping the ear off the ls dizzy

i do this at least once a week at my shop for ls/vtec conversions

VTECth1s

hmm. trying to diagnose my self but don't know how, i read one of the threads that say how to diagnose it, by using like a paper clip and putting one on the prong to the other, and a series of blinks will determine the type of code, i read all that but don't know how put it action, but yah the guy said it leaks from where the dizzy was cut, i assume its getting a CEL code from that. But my first intention was to get a diagnostic test.

akstunt600

nah i can tell u right now with 100% certainty that u will not get a code if that is an obd1 or 2 ls dizzy no matter how hacked/cut up it is,

have it diagnosed asap, this guy sounds like he know what hes doin and he should know that wont throw a code. he just doesnt want to tell u whats really wrong

VTECth1s

interesting..I will go ahead and have that checked out thanks!!, cuz the problem im getting from the car is, idle fluctuates on idle, 1-1000rpm up and down when warmed up, runs fine on cold start. but when the car is warmed and i drive around and come to a complete stop, idle will jump up and down from 1-1000rpm, then it'll die randomly. So i was told by a few people to get the distributor checked out, but with your assurance it gives me more confidence that it can be something else. But again my first intent was to get the car diagnosed, since it will give me concrete answers and details.

akstunt600

yeah u most deffinately have a vaccume leak or a bad idle air control valve code 43

VTECth1s

ill keep that in mind most def.!, and the oil leak that is coming from the dizzy which he was honest to say where the leaks is coming from? but any way, i assume that can be an easy fix, my main concern is the idle and stalling part. Thanks for the help! very appreciated!

RJonathan

For the oil leak take out your dizzy and check to see if the little o-ring on it is still good. there should be a o-ring that help seal and prevent any oil leaks. if you want to see what that o-ring look like just go on ebay and type in "integra distributor" and look at the pictures.
I do agree with akstunt600 you're probably have bad IACV valve that is causing your idle to bounce and check all your vaccum hoses for any cracks etc.

VTECth1s

i had a feeling bout that o-ring too, i saw someone on HT, who had the same oil leak problem. I'll get that looked up as well, Thanks!

trick_db

how is your fucken front end? did you get it yet?

VTECth1s

**** man, not yet, i got my hands on the front end, but my focus is geting my car to run correctly first. lol cant put a front end if the car runs like *** lol.

VTECth1s

your correct bout the idle control valve but thats code 14. but u hit on target, i got the car diagnosed only got code 7 and 14.

akstunt600

oh yeah i meant 14

VTECth1s

thanks!, i just gotta get that IACV replaced and the TPS fixed.