B_Swapped93

Thanks man , going to get all the main parts and some cams(debating pro1's or GSC t1's). Then depending on when the snow is gone and they get all the salt off our roads(our roads are actually WHITE from just salt) after the winter , if I have money and time left over i'll look into forged internals. I want to drive the car till September then put it away, I think the stock block will remain this year I do still want to be able to street it, a precision 5858 is what's been recommended to me, I'd be happy with 400whp overall don't plan to drive it too much so i'll see how much I can push on the stock block.

wunfstgsr

Have you looked into this process heard good things about it.
Cylinder Support System

B_Swapped93

So this is one of the bigger part pick up's I've done dump-tube/half rad/CC stage 2 clutch, also grabbed a bunch of OEM Honda parts tie-rod ends oil pan gasket and several exhaust manifold studs. Reason for the studs is there is no way a bolt could fit with the runners of the ram horn coming so close to the flange, which I didn't think of at first. The main reason for my trip was to get the oil drain line kit so I could weld the bung on and get the pan on...guess what I forgot to get it!. The upside I also ordered some 70A hasport mounts that should be here next week so i'll get it then till then I really cant do anything as the pan has to remain of for me to do that. The block/trans should be in within the next 2 weeks the head is staying off for now, as i'll be doing cams which will require springs and retainers. Which cams.. I'm not sure I want to utilize that 11:1 C/R and run pro 1's but I have heard good things about the GSC-T1's which are a turbo cam, I'm not worried about low/mid range I want to shoot for the high 350whp mark!. The block may not remain stock things are coming to together faster then I thought, but I'm not going to try and push above low 400's on stock sleeves. That's another story tho FIRST thing after I'm done the turbo set up is that Voltex type 1 wing, hate it or love it you almost never see real ones.. I see lots of fake "mugen" ones on RSX's around here. As for what I'm working on this weekend sadly not much I forgot a the main thing to actually getting the block back in, still fighting with the radio and the rust spots I'm most likely going to cut them out bondo isn't coming near this car. One little neat thing, I now get 15% off ALL OEM Honda parts as the manager/director of parts and sales has seen me there soo many times he set me up with the same prices that the local Mechanics/shops get. So a big shout out to David at Midland Honda definitely going to load up on OEM Honda parts now vs the "premium" parts from part source which is what I used to buy if the cost was too high at the dealer.



Nice little pick from Teknotik, made use of my 15% off at Midland Honda!.


Grabbed a few little things I needed, turns out my DIY p/s loop leaks pretty bad so i'll have to TRV it like I did on the old teg.


Had to grind another stud to actually get the engine to go upside down, also got a shorter bolt this will make the oil pan gasket and oil pan install very easy(in theory). Didn't want to but its a cheap stand so I cant really complain.


Took a wire brush to where the old gasket was and used some brake clean to clean it all off, looking good to me.



Did the same to the oil pan its self, all scuffed down and smooth ready for the new gasket.


The nasty old gasket some real dry rot happening, which would explain the leaking.



Still trying to fix the hacked up radio, its not looking good or going well seriously cant do with out music. worst case i'll just gut the car and get an ITR block off plate


A big thank you to David at Midland Honda, And no we cant get our dealers to price match the US prices so this is a big help to me.

94 accord typeR

c'mon man u can fix the hacked up radio right? happens TOO often in the states

teggyluva90

No prob man anything for a rs fan an cool dude . Lol yeah I'll be stock internals ls pushing 330whp at least for now then css installed which I advice you to do my friend from canada is building a turbo white da9 with css an shipping isn't really over kill just ask him let me show him your thread here could live close to you idk. Yeah listen to "theshodan" he's a OG !. Yeah once I start fixing my 98 RS quarter panels hello por-15 inside as well an rubberized undercoating under.

B_Swapped93

If(big if) I'm going to rip into the block I'm going to go all out and sleeve it to 85mm... just the way I like to do things as most ppl know.



So i feel I've been slacking its not due to funds its due to sheer cold and lack of time, turns out i have even MORE work in the winter. Meh i guess i shouldn't complain its the job that funds this and will allow me to get some nice parts later on(Voltex wing/hood exit EX/WG). Our exchange rate is horrid right now so I'm being hesitant on any parts but i made up my mind on a turbo....i put $700 to a Precision 5858 3'' V-band, still waiting on my mounts. Slight setback the dump tube was a 38mm which is now useless to me having a tial MVR, and something else that's been holding me up, apparently i need to have the engine/turbo mocked up before i can mark out the oil drain back line. As you know i want to do anything at the bottom of the engine before its off the stand so the bung and the gasket are now waiting on the turbo. And for me to actually get the time to do all this, i have to address those patched on the quarts that have rust...they've bled through and won't go away via sanding so looks like body work is required come spring. Found the IG account of the last owner... this car has seen potential salt and winters kinda knew that but still disappointing. So hopefully a BIG part for next month or rather a few months down the road as Voltex wings are specially made to order...I made up my mind sold my ITR wing. Specs will be Voltex GT type 1 with 275mm brackets and 1,500mm wide, i have to do the final measure to decide on 1600mm i want this thing to be noticeable!!.




Should definitely be good for any future building too, its not a ball bearing but i have no intentions of racing this car or being hard on it pretty excited to get this bad boy. From what i've seen online this is a pretty big turbo in terms of size we shall see says its good for 620hp but realistically ppl say low/mid 500's.




Soon!, friends already called me a ricer lol but idc i love how these look on DC's with JDM fronts and wide tires(16x8 w/225's) no stance **** this time around, not for everyone but i LOVE rare/unique parts like this.

B_Swapped93

So again I sadly don't have time for anything but I did get my mounts decided to stick with the 70A durometer rating, considered 88A but that seemed kinda nuts. Had these on the last teg so nothing new really but i'll be more carful when installing them and not pound them in with a ratchet. Kind of a momentous day if you will that white prelude you see in the background of some of my pics FINALLY sold, so that means I get the WHOLE garage to my self for what every. I'm going to keep the car on that side as it now means I have a spare bay for the civic or FIT, along with getting my mounts I returned the 38mm dumptube and a 44 was ordered for me. But I made a BIG purchase/decision I ordered my Voltex type 2 GT wing!!! the specs will be 160cm(5.23ft wide) with 27.5cm(10.6IN high) brackets and a optional Gurney flap. I've been told the wait time will be around 6 months...but we'll have a more accurate time line closer to the end of the week. My turbo should be ready in 2-3 weeks as precision is currently out of 3'' v band ex housings, once I get the turbo I'll mock everything up and start getting the block into the bay again. Sorry for the lack of updates... believe me, I want to be out there messing with it and getting stuff done I just have no time



Had these before but its still nice getting new parts, 70A stiffness




Its not much, but having a whole 2 car garage to my self is pretty awesome, part of me misses that prelude...it was my brothers tho.

DVDr

iTrader: (2)

build is looking great.

B_Swapped93

Thanks, I'll be glad when the engine is back in right now it seems as if I've done nothing haha.








Well I had a few spare mins got the new manifold studs in and test fitted the manifold, one issues the top of #1/4 runners leave NO room for a nut. Not sure if this is a BWR issue or ramhorns in general...either way I'll have to look into that, since there were studs in there before i'll need 9 new nuts and a gasket. Nothing big but misc parts ad up pretty much everything is on hold weather I like it or not till my PTE 5858 comes in.



New OEM Honda hardware, I think it'll look pretty nice once I get the new nuts on there. Thought about those down-star bolts but that just seemed ricey. Some of them were a little stiff but went in fine with light vise grip use, just make sure the shortest part goes into the head and be careful when/if using pliers.



Not exactly impressed with the manifold... 2 of the runners seem slightly off from the flange when you look at it from the inside, maybe they're all like this but still not good. Its not too late to get another manifold tho but i'll ask if they're all like this. might have to leave the top bolts off the # 1/4 runners.




Ditching the PCV system for a catch can, probably going to go with the go-autoworks one or PLM, I don't care too much for the giant BWR one.



I know why I wanted that premade p/s delete kit, like the last teg this was a pain, I did use a hose clamp but it wants to leak so I had to cake some RTV on it. Seems I may have to do more and spread it better, its just in a hard spot.

drmix

My BWR ramhorn fit just fine. The only small issue I had with mine was the very outside nuts dont sit very flush against the flange because part of the nut sits on the welds. Other than that I am pretty happy with it.

From the pics I think if you pulled the manifold off slightly then put the trouble nuts on the studs and tightened those down first you should be fine.

B_Swapped93

I'm not saying it's ****, i'm just a little disappointed it was one of the first parts I bought and I didn't think I would be making nearly as much as I am haha. Yes I did a 2nd look that would make sense ill have to try that when I have time. Basically i could have bought a better one then I did, but well see what happens.








Well some of you may hate me for this...I got some wheels and tires, only con they're rota slips lolz these were supposed to come on the car when I bought it but complications happened. So I boght them from the guy I got the car from, I do plan on getting real wheels and good R compound tires but these will do for now/in the spring. Still no word on my Voltex wing, but I guess there's no real rush.



16X7 with nitto gen 1's 205/40/16, for the price the tires are pretty well new so I cant complain.



Pic he used on the ad, and the same pic that drew me to the car in the first place reps or not it looks pretty clean.

tollickj

Nice build bro. Good to see your still moving forward.

turbobrett

love this build much love

donahurj

I wish I had the time (and $$) to do half of that to mine

wunfstgsr

haha Man theres something about this pic or the garage that just has this warm yet old world feel to it haha reminds me of my cousins garage in long Island. looks cold but warm in there lol!

B_Swapped93

Thanks buddy, one day I'll have the time to put all the stuff I have together...parts piling till then.


Means alot, thanks man glad to put this thread together.



Thank you!, I always love seeing nice comments I'm happy to put a good build thread together for ppl to see.





I know what you mean man, the garage is a stand-alone garage I'm not sure how old it is...but the house is an old farm house from the early 1900's. It has surprising wind resistance and can be warm enough for me to just be wearing my work hoodie.








Well a small update, the Voltex wing has officially be ordered! and we have a time frame and price, I'm not going to post that. Other wise it would have totalled $3,116 which is crazy but I still would have done it which is kinda sad lol, the time frame we've been given was 6 months although longer is "possible". Probably the most expensive part I've ever bought but I'd rather this then CCW's or Volk rays.

wunfstgsr

Thats awsome!

BoostinBhatchy

Excellent build

B_Swapped93

thanks

B_Swapped93

Got my proper dump-tube(44mm) and put more towards the PTE 5858, also had a 2 day! for the first time in like forever. So with that Friday night was spent doing some urgent brake work on the FIT, didn't get a chance to really do anything teg wise. Tonight I finish the underbody all painted up and undercoat caked on, took a big jump and completely cut out any rust on the once side(just the one side is "bad". Not sure if I should have done it but I've seen what happens when you just leave a car that has hidden rust, now its time to finish up the inside. There's not much other then a few stains on the inside that need to be painted over, the real thing is figuring out how I'm going to get the new metal shaped like the old section. Ground down the inside of the wheel wells and lip of the fender with a wire brush, its fine a few little rust stains but its smooth underneath. There's 3 sections to the car the outermost sheet then the inner sheet then the frame they all meet at certain points and are pinched, great place for water to get trapped. The side that's rusted is also the side I had the tail light issues with so this was not really a surprise, I knew about it on day 1. I probably could have "bondo'd" it, and made it look good but I wouldn't have been happy with my self/lived up to the standard I've set for this build. I don't have pics of the other side as it's fine so ill do a little more sanding and then get painting, thankfully its just the one side. Still no luck with the radio I've pretty much given up on that, i'll be removing all the speakers and ordering an ITR radio delete plate along with that the pass airbag is coming out too. I'm debating ripping the dash out and gutting it(all the HVAC ****), per my CSCS "class" rules I do need a full interior but I can still rip a bunch of stuff out. Pretty much this will be the time attack car that never happened, my dream integra is yet to come a black Type R with a turbo k24. If I had held off I could have had enough to buy a Type R in the spring easily I've dumped wayyy to much into this already but its fun so I cant really complain.




I must say I like this one alot better no stupid BWR logo tacked on, would have loved a hood exit EX/WG but that's not allowed at CSCS at least for the time attack guys.


Dry fitting... I'll be so happy once my 5858 gets here and I can mock it all up on the engine stand.


Took the last things off from underneath so I could go wild with the paint and under-spray, I have no intention of driving it in the rain even but still I like to do things proper.


Subframe all done several coats of anti-rust paint and undercoat.


All up in there. all the underbody are still of the stuff when its wet it turns out into a nice flat kinda jet black coat.


Its still drying but I think it looks good I've not seen too many cars with this much stuff caked on, the smell in the garage horrid when you do this.


wheel wells and brake lines/anything that likes to get dirty.


I had a feeling someone had attempted body work on it, this is sort od what I plan on doing but ill at least seal up the gap with a bead. the fender rolling is partially what caused all this ****.



I knew this would need to be addressed, its about as bad as I though...somehow where the inner well seam meets the end of the side skirt area is ok and rust free. that's just dust on the wheel well is solid thankfully.



The upper portion is now rust free I went over a bit and took any iffy looking metal out, not sure if I can make up a sheet that will look as good as the OEM section. I'll see may just cut out that area from a rust free integra or a civic(pretty sure they are the same). I;; get some paint on it so it doesn't rust over the next few months.


Again the wheel well and rocker are ok, a little bit of light surface rust but it comes off easy, that inner section needs to go I don't plan on replacing that just the outside bit.


Tested the radio in my civic to see if I got a dud, not the case I'll just keep it or sell it this in its self kinda made me want to keep the car as a dedicated track car. no way I could drive this on the street with no music or have awkward rides with ppl and no music haha.



This is where i'm at now painting the inside being a 98+ it had that stupid heavy brace inside so obviously I took that out, ill find some bolts to cover the holes. The paint is still drying but I think it looks good.

B_Swapped93

I've been on the fence about painting the engine, decided to finally do it got several cans of brake clean and cleared the **** out of the engine. Masked off everything and did the first coat I think it turned out good, probs need a 2nd one tho after I just did the block for a test. I plan on doing the trans and head also I didn't do it to make it look new the block was just dirty and stained even after cleaning it many times, yes I could have hot tanked it but I don't see when I'd have the time to shuttle it down to Toronto. Got the whole interior stripped and ready for weight reduction dash is coming out again deleting all the HVAC **** and doing a custom heat shield on the firewall. I'm debating just ordering the whole RR quarter panel from Honda its about $600 not sure what my discount would put it at, labour wise I'd be into the low $2000's I bet. But i'll have to take it to a shop and see if they can just do these 2 sections it doesn't need to be the prettiest but I do want it done right.


Pre painted block burned through 4 cans of brake fluid to get it to this stage, the regular stuff doesn't work you have to get "Klean flo" as their cans are under a ton of pressure and get all the nasty grim out of the little cracks. I seriously recommend goggles when doing this and an over shirt.



First coat turned out well I think, I used regular dupli-colour VHT "aluminum colour" 2nd cost will be in a few days or when I get a chance.


Everything masked off properly, even my oil filter debated removing the alt and doing it separately but this looks good to me. made sure to cover the denso/Honda sticker also.



1st coat is down they don't make VSM in a can so I may have to use the next closest thing or just leave it the panels will cover most of it, I'm not picky so long as there's no rust. that's just oil you see in the back ground on the pannel



Going to see if I can find actual dry ice or get my brother to bring me back some from his university he has access to all sorts of strange things, or I just do the old chisel and hammer method, dash will be out too.

drmix

Nice choice on painting the motor. I painted my block, head and tranny before i assembled my motor this time around. Its very time consuming but it will look great when done properly. A good thing about painting the motor is that cleanup is very quick and easy. You will want to paint it all at once. Once the paint fully dries it will be hard for the additional coats to adhere properly.

Drmix's 96 CGP GSR Turbo Build Thread **Bad Turbo** - Page 83 - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

If you go to an automotive paint store you should be able to have them mix VSM in a spray can. Im pretty sure paintscratch.com offers this just in case you cant find a local place.

As for the dry ice I picked mine up at Fred Meyer. Alot of grocery stores carry it. Your best bet is to just call around and find some. Its fairly cheap I think I paid around $10-$15 for the ice to do my entire car.

wunfstgsr

Is the clear coat your using a high temp clear coat? drmix can you explain what VSM is?

I used dry ice blasting to clean up a trans and block it came out like brand new!.

drmix

I just used VHT primer and some VHT gloss silver metallic engine enamel. With enough coats it gets pretty glossy as it is.

VSM is just vogue silver metallic. Here is a link to a place where you can purchase it in a spray can.

Vogue Silver Metallic Clearcoat NH-583M Touch Up Paint for 1999 Acura Integra

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

You shouldn't need to spread RTV around a hose connection to stop a leak. Have you considered using a new hose?

You're probably having this issue because you're using an incompatible hose. Power steering hoses need to be able to withstand a particular heat range and rated to withstand a certain amount of pressure. You shouldn't use just any regular hose that fits.