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Old 09-12-2004, 11:58 PM
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Default Fluidampr for b-series

i'm considering buying this product

does anyone here uses it?

any comments?

also,how much does the stock crank pulley from a b18c1 weight?

info can be found here:
http://www.fluidampr.com/honda.htm

http://www.theoldone.com/components/fluidampr/

thanks
Old 09-13-2004, 07:34 AM
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Default Re: Fluidampr for b-series (robtec)

I would also like some info i know aloy of (domestic) guys in pro stock and what not use them but is it as good as factory if not better?
Old 09-13-2004, 09:56 AM
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Default Re: Fluidampr for b-series (robtec)

Theres a little info here. I have been looking into getting one

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=925051
Old 09-13-2004, 10:28 AM
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Default Re: Fluidampr for b-series (rolow)

Give Stan @ Fast-turbo a call and he could explain more than you want to know about it. It's a good investment($300-$350) considering how much money you already put into your engine.
Old 09-13-2004, 11:00 AM
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Default Re: Fluidampr for b-series (ITR 98 1162)

I feel that they are a very wise investment for the money. I've heard several people(Earl being one) say that they are a very effective part for the price.

Jegs has them for our cars as well!
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/nc...r=361
Old 09-13-2004, 02:33 PM
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Default Re: Fluidampr for b-series (RenoRacing)

it is a big improvment for the big build ups

I am getting one so I save keep my bearings as if u got a PCT pulley or the inline four one good luck keeping the motor going after 20 to 50,000 miles

I would suggest this only to peeps that are going to rev past 8500 and on builds in it a must
Old 09-13-2004, 06:04 PM
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Default Re: Fluidampr for b-series (krazie1)

i want to know how much weight the fluidampr(street version) saves over the c1 stocker and also check this out

Originally Posted by D-Man
I heard some issues about fluiddampers that caused me to steer clear of them and go with ATIs


here goes some of the stuff I heard...this is coming from the Scat Crankshaft website

A word about vibration dampers
In our conversation, Tom Lieb gave us some great (though sure to be controversial) information about a subject directly related to the crankshaft and its survival in a race engine: vibration dampers. He was quick to point out that a very common cause of crankshaft failure is using the wrong damper, and is especially leery of any damper that has moving parts. "A damper is supposed to balance an engine. How can you do that when you have something moving on the damper?" Lieb went on to say "Any damper with moving parts, whether it is fluid or mechanical, is not recommended in a drag race engine. Anything that moves in the damper has inertia. When you quickly accelerate or decelerate the engine, that moving part of the damper slams one way or another and puts a lot of stress on the crankshaft. For an engine that runs in a very narrow rpm band and with very little change in engine speed, like an 18-wheeler or a car that drives on the highway at a constant speed, a damper with moving parts is fine, because it will find the frequency at a constant rpm and dampen the vibrations. But with a drag race engine that accelerates and decelerates fiercely, the engine will only have certain vibrations for a millisecond." For a drag racing engine, Lieb recommends the lightest, smallest damper possible, with an elastomer-type construction. "The rubber will sit there and hum, but it won't change location

also another thing I found for a little trivia..

Fluidamper does suggest that it will take about 30 seconds or so on a cold day (below 30degF) to lower the viscosity of the fluid so the inner ring spins freely.
and this
Originally Posted by D-Man
Here goes another quote from a guy talking about them....

"I work for a Caterpillar dealer and we have used fluid filled dampers for years in many different application, On highway and Off Highway trucks, numerous vehicular applications such as trains, Machines(dozers excavators loaders etc.) and industrial engines(EPG, gas compressors, drilling rigs and so on). Some of the larger engines actually use twin dampers bolted together. Anyway to the point a fluid filled damper has an iternal ring that moves within the fluid, This is what absorbs the harmonics from the crankshaft. Fluid by its self can not absorb harmonics, If anything fluid would amplify them. I do know that with the larger units over time the silicon fluid will gell up and cause the damper to become ineffective. Also dont use one with any external damage, The internal ring may be lodged by a dent in the housing thus not being able to dampen harmonics. If you do decide to run one make sure you buy a quality unit. I felt that on an engine that constantly is changing speeds that a fluid damper is not as effective due to the viscosity of the fluid changing with temperature. As the damper absorbs vibration it will heat up causing a different rate of dampening, I feel that if the engine is not changing speeds as often it would be fine. Think of a fluid damper as a hydraulic shock absorber, The more you work it the shorter life span the shock has. Face it oils/fluids have a certain life expectancy and if you heat cycle them enough they loose effectiveness by breaking down. So for long term and durability I say an elastomer damper is the best choice, But the fluid damper I feel has superior dampening qaulities. So with that said its up to you, You arent going to put it on and have the snout of the crank break from it, And if you do it would more than likely have broken no matter what balancer you used."
and also there is another damper ''SFI approved ATI Super Damper''



now i don't know wich one to get


Modified by robtec at 4:24 AM 9/14/2004
Old 09-14-2004, 08:56 AM
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I just picked up the street Fluidampr (b/c Im a pansy and like AC in TX)
I figure what the hell for a street driven car with a few mods it is just insurance (especially since I took off the power steering)
and if the fluid does wear out ...so what Ill get another in a year or 2

I just want to know what this business about painting it Befor you put it on business is ?
(located on website)
the thing looks painted or anodized (sp?)
should I still paint it?
Old 09-14-2004, 07:27 PM
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Old 09-15-2004, 01:17 PM
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I forgot to mention that I use my car for street and track use. so the damper should work in my situation.
I also understand some of the points the second quote made but seems fishy seeing as though a big company like caterpillar is making thousands of truck/equipment a year and it would be stupid to put an expensive damper on there if they did not see any reason to
(kind of like car manufacturers taking out the ashtrays to save 2 or 3 bucks a car)
Old 09-15-2004, 10:56 PM
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just to let you guys know ... I got it on after about four trips to autozone and you need new belts for a/c and alternator (3/4 inch bigger for both) b/c the pulley has a little larger diameter then stock
Old 09-16-2004, 05:14 PM
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Default Re: (ITRacer121)

thanks for the info
Old 11-15-2004, 09:13 AM
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Default Re: Fluidampr for b-series (robtec)

Ok, if you want the real truth about Fluidampr.....Here it is: This is the best dampener on the market. It does not balance the engine and NO damper does. The rotating assemblies are to be balanced professionally and no aftermarket device will fix an out of balance condition. The dampers' job is to control torsional vibrations (Twisting) in the crank.

The fluid inside a Fluidampr does NOT gel up. It is gel when it goes in. The fluid is a proprietary silicone fluid that has been proven to last for 500,000 miles or more in all temperatures. These dampers have functioned properly on engines used in Alaska. Do you race your car when it's 25°F below 0? If you did your Fluidampr would function properly.

All dampers have moving parts. The difference is whether it is rubber or fluid that cushions the movement of the inertia ring. What happens to rubber when it is exposed to oils and water and heat? It fails. Dry rotted "o-rings" change in durometer. That means that the rubber absorbers wear out and don't function properly.

To answer the foolish comparison to 18 wheelers, Warren Johnson, the most winningest prostock driver in history, has run a Fluidampr on his engines for years. Does your street or race car have the horsepower or see the regular abuse that a profession prostock car sees? I don't think so and if it does, your Fluidampr will function properly.

The bottom line is that some manufacturers should spend more time improving their products and less time trying to disprove others. Fluidampr spends their time making new dampers for new engines not selling the same 4 damper rings with different hubs to fit different applications. The reason the big 3 do not use fluid filled dampers is to save money. The elastomeric style dampers are cheaper, not better.
Old 11-15-2004, 09:42 AM
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Default Re: Fluidampr for b-series (fluidampr)

fluidampr is a waste of money. and ill tell you why...cause the person puttin it on will be dumb enough to use an impact gun to take the old one off, and put the new one on. and your bearings will be fucked right then and there.
Old 11-15-2004, 10:53 AM
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Default Re: Fluidampr for b-series (CallMeJesus)

So the product is a waste of money cause some numb-nut doesn't know how to install or remove one. There are a handful of tools available to remove and install a damper. The old hammer and a 2 x 4 theroy is good for cavemen.
Old 11-15-2004, 01:35 PM
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Default Re: Fluidampr for b-series (CallMeJesus)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CallMeJesus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fluidampr is a waste of money. and ill tell you why...cause the person puttin it on will be dumb enough to use an impact gun to take the old one off, and put the new one on. and your bearings will be fucked right then and there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea....and my Jun III's suck because I had a 10 year old kit install them and let my mom tune it.
Old 11-15-2004, 04:40 PM
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Default Re: Fluidampr for b-series (ITR 98 1162)

Old 11-15-2004, 05:51 PM
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How in the world does using an impact to take a crank pulley off destroy bearings?
Ive never heard of this before..
Old 11-15-2004, 06:26 PM
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Default Re: Fluidampr for b-series (fluidampr)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fluidampr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So the product is a waste of money cause some numb-nut doesn't know how to install or remove one. There are a handful of tools available to remove and install a damper. The old hammer and a 2 x 4 theroy is good for cavemen.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it's just because callmejesus knows everything
Old 11-15-2004, 06:32 PM
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Default Re: Fluidampr for b-series (EVOL)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EVOL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it's just because callmejesus knows everything </TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought someone banned that fucktart.
Old 11-22-2004, 12:44 PM
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Default Re: (PyroProblem)

why dont you stand up and think about it pyro?

fluidampr is a waste of money cause if your engine has been balanced out properly, who cares about vibrations that are gonna be there? deadening a vibration doesnt accomplish anything because as it travels out of the engine, it is gonna cause its damage.

i know more than you evol. i bet you cant explain to pyro why you dont use an impact wrench on a crank bolt.
Old 11-22-2004, 01:03 PM
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Default Re: (CallMeJesus)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CallMeJesus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i know more than you evol. i bet you cant explain to pyro why you dont use an impact wrench on a crank bolt.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is something id love to hear about. I've never heard this theory before.
Old 11-22-2004, 01:15 PM
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Default Re: (CallMeJesus)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CallMeJesus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why dont you stand up and think about it pyro?

fluidampr is a waste of money cause if your engine has been balanced out properly, who cares about vibrations that are gonna be there? deadening a vibration doesnt accomplish anything because as it travels out of the engine, it is gonna cause its damage.

i know more than you evol. i bet you cant explain to pyro why you dont use an impact wrench on a crank bolt.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The job of the damper is to work against the harmonic vibrations in the engine, to minimize them, this has nothing to do with the balance of the rotating assembly.
I know it's from the ATI website but it also applies to the Fluidampr, it's a very good article you should read : http://www.atiperformanceprodu...n.htm
Old 11-22-2004, 01:48 PM
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Default Re: Fluidampr for b-series (fluidampr)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fluidampr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The fluid inside a Fluidampr does NOT gel up. It is gel when it goes in. The fluid is a proprietary silicone fluid that has been proven to last for 500,000 miles or more in all temperatures. These dampers have functioned properly on engines used in Alaska. Do you race your car when it's 25°F below 0? If you did your Fluidampr would function properly.

All dampers have moving parts. The difference is whether it is rubber or fluid that cushions the movement of the inertia ring. What happens to rubber when it is exposed to oils and water and heat? It fails. Dry rotted "o-rings" change in durometer. That means that the rubber absorbers wear out and don't function properly</TD></TR></TABLE>.

There is a seemingly growing debate, that actual weight on the end of the crankshaft does more to dampen harmonics than rubber, fluid, etc.... Is there any information from your company's research that can help sort this out, as the main benefit to a fluidampr is said to be the fact that it's gel-filled as opposed to rubber which doesn't last as long, and that it can "absorb" more vibration? I have heard nothing but good things about them overall, but I would like to better understand the physics behind it as well as find out how much more or less a fluidampr weighs compared to a stock harmonic balancer (let's use a stock B-series three belt balancer as the comparative example)...............


Modified by 1stGENGSR at 8:25 PM 11/22/2004
Old 11-22-2004, 02:55 PM
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Default Re: (na200whp)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by na200whp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is something id love to hear about. I've never heard this theory before.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes I would like to know that also.


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