So I finally got my exhaust manifold nice and tight no screws backing out, turbo spooled much quicker, no leaks and full boost. And then my rpms dropped, and the engine could barely stay running.

I am not positive however I think it was the head gasket. It can still turn over and start but runs extremly rough and goes from about 200 rpm to 600, and when I press own on the throttle, nothing happens.

some smoke from directly behind the exhaust manifold.

what do you guys think? Man, finally everything was working perfect but it is not my daily driver so not in panic.

 

I apologize, rambled on and didn't make question clear.

Does it sound like a blown headgasket, or could it be something else?

 

Was the car tuned?

 

I had it decently tuned. I have an plx m500 and a v-afc. I had it retarded 3-4 degrees, ngk cold plugs, and rc 440 inejctors.

Was on test drive, first time everything worked.

 

Did you comp test it? Was the engine built?

Sounds like you fixed some problems and were making more power, did you get it retuned after you fixed the leaks and whatnot?

 

Do u run yur noz alot? and if so, how wat u set it at? did u do any mods to the engine? bc tha system tat u usin causes a lot of problems. same thing happened to my friends teg and was useing the same system as u. we found tat his pistons and rods where FUCKED UP, could be tat if not then i have no clue.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InTegRed81 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do u run yur noz alot? and if so, how wat u set it at? did u do any mods to the engine? bc tha system tat u usin causes a lot of problems. same thing happened to my friends teg and was useing the same system as u. we found tat his pistons and rods where FUCKED UP, could be tat if not then i have no clue.
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anyone care to translate this?

 

I THINK it says: were you using the Zex Nitrous kit when you were tuning, and if you didnt were you when you were test driving your car?

Edit: Basically did you do anything stupid?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InTegRed81 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do u run yur noz alot? and if so, how wat u set it at? did u do any mods to the engine? bc tha system tat u usin causes a lot of problems. same thing happened to my friends teg and was useing the same system as u. we found tat his pistons and rods where FUCKED UP, could be tat if not then i have no clue.
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Ї ЙФ Мẫת Maםםם tЇЇЇЇТę y۵

 

I have used one bottle of nitrous on the engine ever. It was kept at 55hp shot, and that was around 4 months ago.

So no nitrous was used in this incident. I finished installing my turbo 2 days ago, however I was still trouble shooting some minor things, little leaks, etc. that were causing the turbo to spool slow.

I finished fixing all the little things, took it out went through first gear (perfect, AFR stayed about 11.8 - 12.3 conservative), went through second gear, just right. Then I slowed down to go around a corner, went to accelerate and, 0 power. Some how I managed to put it in reverse and back up about 10 feet, to get off the road, before turning the then barely chugging motor off.

 

check all your vac. lines? my sol wouldnt idle for **** after i turbo'd it, turns out 1 vac. line was kinked, fixed that and bam, idled perfect

 

I also pressed the throttle all the way to the floor, and nothing happened. And their is some black smoke coming from behind the the exhaust manifold.

 

well, umm, thats odd? mine at least responded to me pushing the gas pedal

 

i have seen the exact thing happen that you are describing. someone started there car after swapping and it idled extremly low and very rough. when he gave it any gass it died. There was also smoke coming from the same spot. his problem was that he had a coolant line hooked up wrong and coolant was going directly into the intake manifold. so my best educated guess would be that you have blow your headgasket and that coolant is leaking into the cylinders. headgaskets are cheap but unless you have taken your head off before i would have someone else do it (which is not cheap).

 

before removing the head i would take it to a shop and have them ensure you that ALL of your lines are hooked up correctly

 

maybe your timing skipped a couple teeth.... that'd be the first thing to check... you might've made some serious torque and with a "not so tight tensioner" skipped acouple teeth.

next would be blown headgasket

next would be had a blown headgasket and since the cylinder filled with so much water, (and as we all know, water is incompressable) that you cracked a sleeve.

my buddy's turboed tega while back cracked the sleeve, he could drive on it fine, but the poor bastard would overheat and had some trouble making and power above liek 4000 rpm.

 

Question:

Do sleeves crack because they are extremly hot then get nailed by much cooler water?

If so I had only had the car running for about 90 seconds, before all hell broke loose. The exhaust manifold was still cool enough to touch. Would this make it less likely that I would have cracked a sleeve?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr_Bojangles &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Question:

Do sleeves crack because they are extremly hot then get nailed by much cooler water?

If so I had only had the car running for about 90 seconds, before all hell broke loose. The exhaust manifold was still cool enough to touch. Would this make it less likely that I would have cracked a sleeve?</TD></TR></TABLE>

sleeves can crack from several different reasons but they all root back to:
1) extreme cylinder pressure
a)pre ignition/detonation
b)extreme heat
c)large amounts of water entering combustion

etc.

the easiest way to find out the damage would be to pull the head. check for the obvious such as severly bent valves (very doubtful), blown head gasket, small crack(s) on the sleeves. If you don't see anything, drop the oil pan, tray, and pickup... then send the rods upward and analyze the pistons and rods... if all looks well then put it all back together.