A little insight needed on fiberglass sub enclosures
I'm going to start the project tonight on making a sub box to sit flush down into my spare tire well. Here is my thinking on how I will do it.
Layer the spare tire well with fiberglass with of course a layer of tin foil underneath.
after that is made create a square around the well with wood. fiberglass the wood to the other fiberglass that is already layed.
Then use small parts of wood and run them around the whole outside of my trunk. Take my stock carpet and create a wood floor the same shape as it. Screw that all down on top of the square wood used for the sub box and around the outside of the trunk.
Then cut the hole for my sub and install it inverted. Cut a rectangle area in front of the sub with plexi-glass flip up lid for my amp to sit down in. Carpet all of the wood.
Is this the best way to create a false floor/sub box that will look and sound decent?
Thanks.
Layer the spare tire well with fiberglass with of course a layer of tin foil underneath.
after that is made create a square around the well with wood. fiberglass the wood to the other fiberglass that is already layed.
Then use small parts of wood and run them around the whole outside of my trunk. Take my stock carpet and create a wood floor the same shape as it. Screw that all down on top of the square wood used for the sub box and around the outside of the trunk.
Then cut the hole for my sub and install it inverted. Cut a rectangle area in front of the sub with plexi-glass flip up lid for my amp to sit down in. Carpet all of the wood.
Is this the best way to create a false floor/sub box that will look and sound decent?
Thanks.
so you don't forget:
Mike says:
ditch the spare, make a peice of wood thats pretty thin like 3/8ths to the spec of your floor. Itll prolly have to be in 2 peices. Make a small vented box with an opent op. Mount that to the bottom of the 3/8s peice over where the spare was. Cut a hole thru the 3/8's for the sub, put carpet over it, and put the sub in
Mike says:
do whateve ryou have to do for the amp, I'd do something similiar like just mount sort of a tray under the 3/8s and cut a whole in the top of it flush and then carpet that whole area too
Mike says:
ditch the spare, make a peice of wood thats pretty thin like 3/8ths to the spec of your floor. Itll prolly have to be in 2 peices. Make a small vented box with an opent op. Mount that to the bottom of the 3/8s peice over where the spare was. Cut a hole thru the 3/8's for the sub, put carpet over it, and put the sub in
Mike says:
do whateve ryou have to do for the amp, I'd do something similiar like just mount sort of a tray under the 3/8s and cut a whole in the top of it flush and then carpet that whole area too
Make your grib[ your square] and fit it to th floor first,then start your FG, start at the top, a good 2 or 3 inchs up the inside of the grib, work your way down till you have covered everything with 1 layer, let that "kik off "a bit, now start your next layer, from the bottom and work up, next layer down and so on , you will need 4 or 5 layers.
hope this helps. 94
ps have you done FG before? if not , you might want to do a couple test runs out of your car first
hope this helps. 94
ps have you done FG before? if not , you might want to do a couple test runs out of your car first
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jim Truett »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I never use aluminum foil. I prefer 4 mil plastic sheeting, and that method allows me to cover the bumper easily.


</TD></TR></TABLE>
94


</TD></TR></TABLE>
94
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There's two glass enclosures on my page there - the second is toward the last page where I have a little mini walkthough there on how to do fiberglass in a spare tire well.
It's for a tiny box, so I would change thigns around a bit if it was for a larger one and do the frame on the outside like the one above - it just wasn't possible for the box I built.
Although, if you truely want it flush, you will have to do it similar to what I did. Also, don't forget to countersink your subs so that they will fit under the factory floor - or add a grill to protect them!
There's two glass enclosures on my page there - the second is toward the last page where I have a little mini walkthough there on how to do fiberglass in a spare tire well.
It's for a tiny box, so I would change thigns around a bit if it was for a larger one and do the frame on the outside like the one above - it just wasn't possible for the box I built.
Although, if you truely want it flush, you will have to do it similar to what I did. Also, don't forget to countersink your subs so that they will fit under the factory floor - or add a grill to protect them!
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jim Truett »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I never use aluminum foil. I prefer 4 mil plastic sheeting, and that method allows me to cover the bumper easily.


</TD></TR></TABLE>
sweet pics and setup
how does it sound? any idea about the cubic feet in it?


</TD></TR></TABLE>sweet pics and setup
how does it sound? any idea about the cubic feet in it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spark plugs. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
sweet pics and setup
how does it sound? any idea about the cubic feet in it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks.
It sounds damn good. With the high damping factor and massive power output of the ZPA0.5, the bass is very tight and well defined. the box is 1.5 cubic feet, but with the displacement of the inner baffle and the massive magnets on the PRO 10s, i would estimate the woofers see 1.2 cubic feet. I did sacrifice about 2" of trunk depth, but the magnet size of the woofers and the fact that I needed room to mount a 3 farad capacitor dictated the box design.




sweet pics and setup
how does it sound? any idea about the cubic feet in it?</TD></TR></TABLE>Thanks.
It sounds damn good. With the high damping factor and massive power output of the ZPA0.5, the bass is very tight and well defined. the box is 1.5 cubic feet, but with the displacement of the inner baffle and the massive magnets on the PRO 10s, i would estimate the woofers see 1.2 cubic feet. I did sacrifice about 2" of trunk depth, but the magnet size of the woofers and the fact that I needed room to mount a 3 farad capacitor dictated the box design.




got my frame built to look pretty much exactly like the one above, just modified for my trunk. and got the first layer of fb layed. it's pretty straight forward once you get going.
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