well since may i have been slowly but surely working on getting my car ready for the track. truth is it would have been fine for the HPDE events but i didn't want it to be fine i wanted it to be set up really well (as much as my pockets will allow). and as that turned out money wasn't what was holding me back it was finding time to order parts and install them that held me back, i have been working alot lately and had no time to do anything but work. well thats the price i pay and im willing to except it. anyways with thunder hill approching fast and fast every day i figured it was time to get my *** in gear and since my roll bar (thanks JoesTypeS) and brake pads (thanks civicrr) and my wheel bearing will be done tomarow it was as good as time as any to get started.

i figured cooling might be a problem, and seeing as how my stock raditor did such a good job in the hot hot heat and traffic i figured that the del sol vtec dual core raditor should handle HPDE's. and it was in the budget.


suspension, well the guys at ground control took real good care of me on this one. I perchused 4 top mounts, 4 full sleeve's, and 2 7inch 450lbs ERS's and 2 8 inch 380lbs from them, i perchased my koni yellows from HT sponser extremepowerouters. and the SRR rear setup i perchased a year ago off of an HT sponsor also, although i had the LCA re-anodized to the color of GC. i went with the SRR setup because it use a smaller rear sway bar, and i feel that for my old setup and my new setup that anything bigger will be to much.



and yes i relize that tire is not on the correct side my car isn't going any were i just grabed the top two rims so that i could get the rear jack stands out of underneith

saftey- i did a post not to long ago on my new saftey equpment (helmet and harness) and now im preping the interior of the car for the roll cage.
carpets over rated

thinks thats dirty just wait

again befor i touched the floor

after i took the wire wheel to the area were the mounting plates are going to be welded in, that sound deading material makes a fuckn mess



i still have a lil more cleaning to do but the wire wheel i had was to big i need to pick up a smaller one tomarow.

the cage looks awsome unfortantly wont be able to go in untill next saturday, but i can wait the guy who is doing it for me does great work.

tomarow i will be reinstalling the front knuckel with the new wheelbearing and the ARP wheel studs, bleeding the whole brake system and installing the GT sports that i got from civicrr thanks again for the speedy service.

BTW i hate working on the interior of a car.


Modified by slammed_93_hatch at 7:43 AM 7/12/2004

 

Looking good!

 

Stupid question: What tires are those?

 

Dude, that looks awesome. That's about where I'm at on my car (95 civ coupe). Next for me is pulling out the dash and steering wheel (the only things that are left of the interior), so the cage can go it next weekend.

Other than the size of it not being optimum, how is the wire wheel working for the sound deadening material? There was a thread here a while ago about the various ways to remove that stuff, and none of them sounded very fun or easy. I'm thinking I'm going to start with my pneumatic chisel at a very shallow angle.

I'll try to get pics of my ride up after this holiday weekend.

HAPPY 4TH OF JULY, MY FELLOW H-T'ERS!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sean O’Gorman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stupid question: What tires are those?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Advan Neovas. Not a US-market tire.

 

cool, man! i take it from your other post that this is a civic hatch with a ls motor. you going to use it for *just* hpde or do you have some h1 plans in the future?

jeff, who is still trying to decide what car to get for dedicated auto-x/track use

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 666 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Advan Neovas. Not a US-market tire. </TD></TR></TABLE> correct. i really like them but i have never driven on any onther performance tire. on my daily wheels i like a tire that gets great mileage.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FormulaIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Other than the size of it not being optimum, how is the wire wheel working for the sound deadening material? There was a thread here a while ago about the various ways to remove that stuff, and none of them sounded very fun or easy. I'm thinking I'm going to start with my pneumatic chisel at a very shallow angle. </TD></TR></TABLE>

it was effortless and all the other ways look like it takes alot of work, with the wire wheel and a high power electric or air drill, you just apply pressure and hold till its all gone. It is in by no means fast, but neither is the dryice method. Wire wheel also works to get that seem glue **** off the chassi, and the paint, i guess there are other ways i just thought this was the best. iits make a huge mess as you can see.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jeff R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cool, man! i take it from your other post that this is a civic hatch with a ls motor. you going to use it for *just* hpde or do you have some h1 plans in the future?</TD></TR></TABLE>

for right now its just a HPDE and weekend worrior car. once i graduate college then it will become a dedicated track car, weither it be H1 or whatever is a good competive club style racing.

 

Looks good for a rookie....J/K

I'll try to help you out next time maing. Damn thats noice suspension....but I am bias!

 

Yokohama has brought a few Neovas to the US for testing, mostly with dor-ift-o teams. We got to take a few take-offs home during a weekend at Laguna Seca (combo PCA/drift/Formula club racing weekend) but they were very careful to covet the Neovas. They aren't yet DOT rated and it sounds like Yokohama doesn't want their fancy JDM bling tires in the US just yet.

They do look like they have a pretty aggressive tread and a very soft compound. Anyone think we're missing out by not seeing tires like the Neova and Bridgestone RE540s in the US?

And just so this isn't a total hijack, nice hatch. The anodized LCAs are purty.

-Adam

 

update


learned some things today.

"don't count on other peoples work"
"don't get work done on a friday or a monday. Monday everyone is hung over from the weekend and friday every one is in a rush to get the **** out."-my dad


well go i go to the shop this morning ready to have a nice day of working on the car and getting it running finally.

well that just went down the fuckn drain.

i get the brake line holders that go onto the damper from my budy install them then start to intsall the kunckel. driver side goes good, then the passenger side goes good too. after getting those on we roll into into the shop. take the wheels off and go to work on installing the brake. well my buddy (bretx0r) is working on getting the passenger side all set im doing the driver side. i hear him say, "**** your not gona be happy." me, "what did you do", him-"i didn't do **** but the people who put the bearing in **** it up there is HELLA play in the hub." me-"let me see.... aaaa **** **** **** **** **** **** **** ****....." ya well turns out some how when they installed the bearing they fucked up and every thing is hella loose.

so then i just relax and i say well **** we can at least bleed the brakes. so we throw the rotor on then put the cobalt gt-sport pads in the claiper (thanks again civicrr) put the calipers on, fill the system with fluid and low and behold NO FUILD IS COMING OUT THE FRONT. only the rear, (this was my **** up my dad thinks that the centering piston in the MC got fucked when i installed it.)

so this is were i need your help i can crack the line for the front of brakes and NOTHING comes out NO fluid is getting to the front only to the rear. any one know why?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">update


, fill the system with fluid and low and behold NO FUILD IS COMING OUT THE FRONT. only the rear, (this was my **** up my dad thinks that the centering piston in the MC got fucked when i installed it.)

so this is were i need your help i can crack the line for the front of brakes and NOTHING comes out NO fluid is getting to the front only to the rear. any one know why?</TD></TR></TABLE>

any help with that?

 

i cannot help you, but i'd like to say congrats on the set up. seems like you're ready to have devilish fun on the track

 

well i gota a bunch done since i last posted and still some more to do. i got my roll bar installed along with my harness (the shoulder belts i know aren't looped right they need to come off soon anyways) and my seat back brace done.




seat back brace still alil left on the install

pretty lil harness

 

who did your cage ?
price?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FormulaIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Other than the size of it not being optimum, how is the wire wheel working for the sound deadening material? There was a thread here a while ago about the various ways to remove that stuff, and none of them sounded very fun or easy. I'm thinking I'm going to start with my pneumatic chisel at a very shallow angle.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dry ice works really well and effortlessly... . Basically you just set dry ice all over your floor boards to freeze the coating and it becomes so brittle from the extreme cold temps that you can just bang on your floor like a drum and it pops right off.

 

where can you get dry ice? I havent looked locally, but it seems kind of hard to get ahold of...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">who did your cage ?
price?</TD></TR></TABLE>

its a true race roll bar contace joestypes on this site about it.

if your talking about the install then a local guy did it PM me for details

 

They sell it at a few grocery stores around here... not every grocery store has it but quite a few do.

 

sweet, Ill ask around!

 

dry ice is great for the sound deading stuff, but you stil need a wire wheel for the seam sealer, and the paint. got to have nice clean metal to weld onto

 

I did the same thing to my car...dry ice is a little messy, I used a hair dryer and then scrapped it off in a long straight line. came off with no prob, then take off the leftovers with "goo -gone".

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dry ice is great for the sound deading stuff, but you stil need a wire wheel for the seam sealer, and the paint. got to have nice clean metal to weld onto</TD></TR></TABLE> Oh yeah definitely, dry ice is only for the deadening material not seam sealer or paint seam sealer definitely takes more extreme measures such as a wire wheel Nice project BTW... best of luck with your endeavor

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UnitZero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did the same thing to my car...dry ice is a little messy, I used a hair dryer and then scrapped it off in a long straight line. came off with no prob, then take off the leftovers with "goo -gone".</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't think dry ice is messy at all... it would have to be the easiest one I can think of... by time it freezes and you knock it loose, it has shattered like glass and is easy to vacuum up with a shop vac. The problem with heat removal is you have a sticky mess on your hands (a lot like hot tar) and more work ahead of you by having to get rid of the sticky remains... dry ice= no stickiness and no additional elbow grease to remove the remnants imho.

 

I attacked my sound deadener this weekend, and it was definitely NOT the big ordeal that I thought it would be. I think the car sat out in the arizona heat w/o a windsheild long enought that the glue died. The thicker stuff peeled right up in very large chunks. The thin stuff on the shift linkage tunnel and rear seats took a little more time with a putty knife and hammer, but wasn't too bad. Some Goo-Gone and a wire wheel, and I'll be ready for the cage, which has been pushed back to the first weekend in August.

To avoid the hijack, your hatch is lookin real good. I think you're only about 3 weekends ahead of me.

 

danm look nice!!
i love the seat yo lol

 

Ive done the hammer and chisel before, F*&$ that! Im running errands all day, Ill stop and look for some dry ice.
Project looks great! Im going to be starting my own thread soon as well.