progress on the project
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 426
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From: Orlando, FL
Re: Re: (Tinker219)
Cool I can't wait to here how easy it was... just don't touch the dry ice with your bare hands, make sure you have some gloves or thick clothe to handle the stuff or it will freeze your flesh to the bone.
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 13,483
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From: cali
Re: Re: (h22avid)
well i haven't updated this in awhile and i have done alot. In august i futhered my quest to join H1 buy purchasing a 2000 JDM ITR motor with 10,000 miles on it. Drove it at Sears point one weekend and then to a local shop and i threw a rod and destroyed my motor. Spun a bearing it seized and, well the res is history. Here are some pictures
the week befor she blew
here is the damage
Well that promted me to think about the money it will take to rebuilt and if it happens again, so I sold everything off of the motor that i could, I made 3800 so far, with about 300 dollars worth of stuff for sale still. I then, after much searching found a D16z6 motor, complete swap for 400 dollars. I completly dissassembled it and its now in the shop being completly rebuilt to HC specs, its going to be about 1800 for the toatle. I also picked up a tranny with 4.7 FD with zero miles on the FD and 80,000 on the rest for 600. So 1800+400+600=2800, with another 1000 still left over from the ITR motor. This will help buy new rims, and helped with X-mas presents.
Sold my old brake setup and got enough money for the 1995 civic SI with ABS with all new bearings, rotors, calipers, and pads.
here is the new brakes, with the sperical bearing, hopefully they work out great.
Koni SPSS3's thanks to Carl_aka_carlos, all the yellow's at the hardware store were fugly so i went with a red
pile o Parts, radiator, header, and fully SI wiring harness
Front bumber, with half of the diffuser done
the garage, amist the madness of working
the two trannies, one with the 4.7FD and the other one is stock SI
front spindel, new calipers, rotors, and wheel bearings, thanks to Fast Under Car, for now while the car is still in HPDE status and will be driven to and from the track i stuck with Cobalt GT-sports, thanks Mike, also SS brake lines came from Mike there awaiting to be installed, Eibach 600lbs springs up front
rear setup, new rotors, new hubs and bearings, along with Cobalt GT-sports also, Eibach ERS 800lbs springs out back
Roll bar is painted black, I was hopeing to get the front hoop in but it will have to wait utill may
Feb 18th the motor is going in, brakes bleed, and ill be heading out to the HC NorCal opner to observe, photograph, and help out, but wont be doing the DE's that weekend. Some small but important stuff is needed befor i will go out again
thats it for now, ill update it again when the motor is in the car is rolling.
the week befor she blew
here is the damage
Well that promted me to think about the money it will take to rebuilt and if it happens again, so I sold everything off of the motor that i could, I made 3800 so far, with about 300 dollars worth of stuff for sale still. I then, after much searching found a D16z6 motor, complete swap for 400 dollars. I completly dissassembled it and its now in the shop being completly rebuilt to HC specs, its going to be about 1800 for the toatle. I also picked up a tranny with 4.7 FD with zero miles on the FD and 80,000 on the rest for 600. So 1800+400+600=2800, with another 1000 still left over from the ITR motor. This will help buy new rims, and helped with X-mas presents.
Sold my old brake setup and got enough money for the 1995 civic SI with ABS with all new bearings, rotors, calipers, and pads.
here is the new brakes, with the sperical bearing, hopefully they work out great.
Koni SPSS3's thanks to Carl_aka_carlos, all the yellow's at the hardware store were fugly so i went with a red
pile o Parts, radiator, header, and fully SI wiring harness
Front bumber, with half of the diffuser done
the garage, amist the madness of working
the two trannies, one with the 4.7FD and the other one is stock SI
front spindel, new calipers, rotors, and wheel bearings, thanks to Fast Under Car, for now while the car is still in HPDE status and will be driven to and from the track i stuck with Cobalt GT-sports, thanks Mike, also SS brake lines came from Mike there awaiting to be installed, Eibach 600lbs springs up front
rear setup, new rotors, new hubs and bearings, along with Cobalt GT-sports also, Eibach ERS 800lbs springs out back
Roll bar is painted black, I was hopeing to get the front hoop in but it will have to wait utill may
Feb 18th the motor is going in, brakes bleed, and ill be heading out to the HC NorCal opner to observe, photograph, and help out, but wont be doing the DE's that weekend. Some small but important stuff is needed befor i will go out again
thats it for now, ill update it again when the motor is in the car is rolling.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 304
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From: Folsom, CA, USA
Re: (Andrie)
Jimmy,
I'm bummed you didn't have me do your cage
But oh well, you car is looking great. I can't wait to finally see you out on the track. You have put in a lot of hours at the track with no driving, it about time.
A stock radiator would do just fine for winter time racing. What engine are you going to have in there for feb?
I'm bummed you didn't have me do your cage
But oh well, you car is looking great. I can't wait to finally see you out on the track. You have put in a lot of hours at the track with no driving, it about time. A stock radiator would do just fine for winter time racing. What engine are you going to have in there for feb?
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 13,483
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From: cali
Re: (mikeski38)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikeski38 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jimmy,
I'm bummed you didn't have me do your cage But oh well, you car is looking great. I can't wait to finally see you out on the track. You have put in a lot of hours at the track with no driving, it about time.
A stock radiator would do just fine for winter time racing. What engine are you going to have in there for feb?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have the stock radiator, but i did the mounts for the dual so im going to keep it. I didn't know you at the time i got my roll bar put it, and no money left for the front hoop at this time.
Ill be running an HC spec D16z6
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heat? on the rear brakes? </TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what i thought when i read it.
I wont be running in Febuary but it will be out at the track.
I'm bummed you didn't have me do your cage
But oh well, you car is looking great. I can't wait to finally see you out on the track. You have put in a lot of hours at the track with no driving, it about time. A stock radiator would do just fine for winter time racing. What engine are you going to have in there for feb?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have the stock radiator, but i did the mounts for the dual so im going to keep it. I didn't know you at the time i got my roll bar put it, and no money left for the front hoop at this time.
Ill be running an HC spec D16z6
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heat? on the rear brakes? </TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what i thought when i read it.
I wont be running in Febuary but it will be out at the track.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
From: Folsom, CA, USA
Re: (slammed_93_hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have the stock radiator, but i did the mounts for the dual so im going to keep it. I didn't know you at the time i got my roll bar put it, and no money left for the front hoop at this time.
Ill be running an HC spec D16z6
thats what i thought when i read it.
I wont be running in Febuary but it will be out at the track.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds great man...see ya there
I have the stock radiator, but i did the mounts for the dual so im going to keep it. I didn't know you at the time i got my roll bar put it, and no money left for the front hoop at this time.
Ill be running an HC spec D16z6
thats what i thought when i read it.
I wont be running in Febuary but it will be out at the track.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds great man...see ya there
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 13,483
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From: cali
Re: (civicrr)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicrr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> See you on the track. 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
some time soon i hope
</TD></TR></TABLE>some time soon i hope
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From: cali
Re: (slammed_93_hatch)
ok i finally got the brakes bleed and ready to go. ATE super blue. Also i got the wiring for the gauges ran, just need to figure out how to mount them now. Also got the ATS wheels painted, i went with white, yes i know it will be filled with brake dust but there 15s i keep um clean
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,596
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From: Between Willow, and Button Willow, CA, USA
Re: (slammed_93_hatch)
Jimmy,
Just buy the little single pod holders and mount them on the dash. Or even cheaper. Take an aluminum plate, put a 90 degree bend in it, put 2 or 3 holes in it and mount the gauges in it and mount it to the dash!
The second option is what I would do! But I'm cheap!
Just buy the little single pod holders and mount them on the dash. Or even cheaper. Take an aluminum plate, put a 90 degree bend in it, put 2 or 3 holes in it and mount the gauges in it and mount it to the dash!
The second option is what I would do! But I'm cheap!
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,014
Likes: 2
From: Shiny side up dammit, MO
slammed-
The car is looking great! Looks like you're doing a very thorough build, with a ton of attention to detail.
Those koni's look good in red under the red GC sleeves! Always good to have some bling on a race car!
The car is looking great! Looks like you're doing a very thorough build, with a ton of attention to detail.
Those koni's look good in red under the red GC sleeves! Always good to have some bling on a race car!
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 13,483
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From: cali
Re: (R you serious)
thanks guys
prkiller i think im going to go with the aluminum for the mounts.
Would you guys suggest blocking off that air path were it opens up or just let the air come out.
prkiller i think im going to go with the aluminum for the mounts.
Would you guys suggest blocking off that air path were it opens up or just let the air come out.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2002
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From: cali
Re: progress on the project (BrianZ)
finished my splitter/air damn this weekend, It not super low, maybe 1 inch at the minimum and 2.5 at the max, it mainly worked to make the front bumber level instead of the arch it has.
All together this thing took ALOT of work. just alot of little time consuming stuff. But i can now see why RRG charges what they do. Me and my dad figured that at 10 bucks an hour (less than we make at are jobs). This thing just in time cost us 250 bucks, plus the cost of all the other stuff.
But again im alittle nuts and i really liek doing this stuff. so here it is.
the shape isn't perfect but its pretty damn good i think.
the silver metal is some ~1/16 aluminum that is 5 inch tall, i bent one inch of it over and that is what is attached to the white spilter (its called alumalite, thanks Mike!!) I took tin snips and sniped the bent over part every so often as needed, a toatle of 6 i think.
I made the one inch bent by useing a BFH, a 2x4, and a vise. I marked the aluminum all the way down one inch. I then proceded to pound over the one inch section all the way down. If you have access to a bender it would be a hell of alot easier, my old highschool has one but it was only 6 feet long so wouldn't have worked.
I then sealed the aluminum to alumilite with some black silicon, the gap was small but i didn't want any gap.
I used some really beefy Rivets and washers for the rivets on the plastic side, these damn rivets broke 2 heavy duty rivet guns, then picked up one from harbor freight for a 10 bucks and it survived, but i had to take apart the gun to get the old rod out every time.
I attached the alumilte to the aluminum "air damn" with 20 bolt's with some big washers. I started by attaching the bolts were i had made the snips and then just filled in the holes from there. We were going to just do 16 but decided that its better to over do it then have the thing be ripped off while out of the track.
Over all its REALLY strong, i did some pull, kick, rip testes and it held up like a champ. I Finished it all off by sanding and then painting it black but only got the first 2 coats on cause it started to rain.
If any one has any question regarding how to make one, don't hesitate to ask, i had been researching this for a long time, and felt that all of the right up were lacking or didn't like the out come.
the toatle cost of this.
aluminum- 8 bucks in the scrap bin of a metal store
Alumalite- 130 or so from a sign store
rivets, washers, and rivet gun- 75 bucks, brakeing two rivet guns SUCKED
nuts, bolts, and washers-20 bucks
tools, and stuff-
BFH
2x4
vise
rivets, washers, rivet gun
Drill and misc correct drill bits
tin snips
phillips screw driver
open end wrench
and a whole CRAP load of paitents and good thinking
Once i get the motor in the car i will make the nesscacary cuts if needed. i will also be addeding some alumilite to the area were the front jack point is so that i can still use it.
the next project will be making air ducts for the brakes, i still need to order the ducts nd tubbing and come up with a way to get the air to the rotor, hopefully someing good will come up.
All together this thing took ALOT of work. just alot of little time consuming stuff. But i can now see why RRG charges what they do. Me and my dad figured that at 10 bucks an hour (less than we make at are jobs). This thing just in time cost us 250 bucks, plus the cost of all the other stuff.
But again im alittle nuts and i really liek doing this stuff. so here it is.
the shape isn't perfect but its pretty damn good i think.
the silver metal is some ~1/16 aluminum that is 5 inch tall, i bent one inch of it over and that is what is attached to the white spilter (its called alumalite, thanks Mike!!) I took tin snips and sniped the bent over part every so often as needed, a toatle of 6 i think.
I made the one inch bent by useing a BFH, a 2x4, and a vise. I marked the aluminum all the way down one inch. I then proceded to pound over the one inch section all the way down. If you have access to a bender it would be a hell of alot easier, my old highschool has one but it was only 6 feet long so wouldn't have worked.
I then sealed the aluminum to alumilite with some black silicon, the gap was small but i didn't want any gap.
I used some really beefy Rivets and washers for the rivets on the plastic side, these damn rivets broke 2 heavy duty rivet guns, then picked up one from harbor freight for a 10 bucks and it survived, but i had to take apart the gun to get the old rod out every time.
I attached the alumilte to the aluminum "air damn" with 20 bolt's with some big washers. I started by attaching the bolts were i had made the snips and then just filled in the holes from there. We were going to just do 16 but decided that its better to over do it then have the thing be ripped off while out of the track.
Over all its REALLY strong, i did some pull, kick, rip testes and it held up like a champ. I Finished it all off by sanding and then painting it black but only got the first 2 coats on cause it started to rain.
If any one has any question regarding how to make one, don't hesitate to ask, i had been researching this for a long time, and felt that all of the right up were lacking or didn't like the out come.
the toatle cost of this.
aluminum- 8 bucks in the scrap bin of a metal store
Alumalite- 130 or so from a sign store
rivets, washers, and rivet gun- 75 bucks, brakeing two rivet guns SUCKED
nuts, bolts, and washers-20 bucks
tools, and stuff-
BFH
2x4
vise
rivets, washers, rivet gun
Drill and misc correct drill bits
tin snips
phillips screw driver
open end wrench
and a whole CRAP load of paitents and good thinking
Once i get the motor in the car i will make the nesscacary cuts if needed. i will also be addeding some alumilite to the area were the front jack point is so that i can still use it.
the next project will be making air ducts for the brakes, i still need to order the ducts nd tubbing and come up with a way to get the air to the rotor, hopefully someing good will come up.
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,596
Likes: 0
From: Between Willow, and Button Willow, CA, USA
Re: progress on the project (slammed_93_hatch)
Jimmy,
Looks really good. When I researched doing mine, I wanted to go the way you went. The only problem I had was that 130 price tag on the alumalite.
I just used a piece of 1/4" plywood and it had worked pretty well so far. Plus, the best part is that I can buy a 4'x8' sheet for about 15-20 bucks!
You may want to try the plywood if anything "happens" to that one!
Looks really good. When I researched doing mine, I wanted to go the way you went. The only problem I had was that 130 price tag on the alumalite.
I just used a piece of 1/4" plywood and it had worked pretty well so far. Plus, the best part is that I can buy a 4'x8' sheet for about 15-20 bucks!
You may want to try the plywood if anything "happens" to that one!
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 13,483
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From: cali
Re: progress on the project (prkiller)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prkiller »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jimmy,
Looks really good. When I researched doing mine, I wanted to go the way you went. The only problem I had was that 130 price tag on the alumalite.
I just used a piece of 1/4" plywood and it had worked pretty well so far. Plus, the best part is that I can buy a 4'x8' sheet for about 15-20 bucks!
You may want to try the plywood if anything "happens" to that one! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Mike has used his for long period of time, and well his car had a john deer license plate, to discribe his drving style, the **** is durable.
FYI i have another spliter it was the first one i made it was too small for what i did, i lost the messurments for it, but ill find it. if some one is doing one on a 92-95 civic with the stock lip of something like it.
Looks really good. When I researched doing mine, I wanted to go the way you went. The only problem I had was that 130 price tag on the alumalite.
I just used a piece of 1/4" plywood and it had worked pretty well so far. Plus, the best part is that I can buy a 4'x8' sheet for about 15-20 bucks!
You may want to try the plywood if anything "happens" to that one!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Mike has used his for long period of time, and well his car had a john deer license plate, to discribe his drving style, the **** is durable.
FYI i have another spliter it was the first one i made it was too small for what i did, i lost the messurments for it, but ill find it. if some one is doing one on a 92-95 civic with the stock lip of something like it.