preface- thought the walbro was causing problems with popping the 15A fuse under the hood labeled "ECU" which controlls the 4 listed below.

welp, after some testing tonight, it's not a fuel pump problem.


first step - Put the stock pump back in. perhaps the walbro is bad, or whatever...

ran for 2 min, pop. ****. its doing it on the stock pump too.

opened up the helms... found out whats on the circuit:
-injectors
-pump
-ecu
-o2 heater

injectors were never re-wired and are saturated, so we assumed them to be ok for now. they are brand new from RC and have a full spec sheet that looks perfect.

pump, we ruled out, cuz we put the known working stock pump back in, and it still happened.

ecu, didn't touch... really can't. i have the 3-bar map, and 750cc injectors. if i plug in the stock p28 sans hondata, im going to A- run like *** if at all with no map plugged in, and B- the 750's, uncontrolled, are either not going to A- idel, or B- cause serious washout on the cyl walls.
skip for now.

o2. hrm. simply unplugged it. ran car for about 20. no poppage. hrm... could this be it? turned car off. plugged it back in. ran car for about 15-20 again. still no pop.

ruled out.

so, other than the ecu being bad, or the hondata socketing being wrong (which it can't be if it runs the car, right?) which was all brand new from hondata themselves- even the p28 is hondata chipped (their pre-socketed ecu and all). mind you, i have no codes and the car ran fine for over an hour before it blew the first fuse...


just don't know anymore. pretty much ruled out all 4 things on the circuit. there's nothing left to test

if anyone has any insight, please share.


Car-

p28 hondata on z6 harness, base map (but runs fine before fuse pops- not a basemap problem)
4 wire o2
rc 750 saturated
full-race powered 2.0 gsr/b16 hybrid

The thing that pisses me off the most: 20 grand in parts and a $.50 fuse is keeping me from driving it.

 

Keep in mind that when a fuse blows, many times it isn't the device itself that's bad, but the wiring going to the device.

Roughly 7 times out of 10 a blown fuse is caused by a short in the wiring somewhere. Follow ALL of the wires going to all 4 of those devices.

It will probably be time consuming, but that is why electrical problems are some of the worst problems you can have with a car.

 

Would bet money some where you have an O2 wire pinched. Seems to be a rash of that here lately.

Even if your not useing the secondary o2, do not forget to check the wires that used to go to it

 

car never had a 2nd o2, its a 94.

o2 was totally re-wired by my buddy who is a wire guru.. soldered all up and everything (need to be extended).

i think i rememeber reading somewhere that one of the o2 wires needs to be shielded wire? i used regular wire.
anyone have any info on this? which wire is it?
would a non-sheilded wire cause these results?

 

The shielded wire is just to prevent any signal interference in your sensor readings.

 

take a close look at the wiring harness as it passes and rubs against the block to intake manifold brace

 

you might not like this but, you could borrow a friends wiring harness? If it was me, id take out the harness (I know im nuts) and look over everything, ECU ... it sucks but you might find something - just a suggestion.

 

the harness is known good- it was running my z6 fine before i did the swap.

as for the IM brace- i don't have one on the car at all.. and my o2 is wiered different;y, so it doesn't even pass that way

 

check the gromets on the fire wall and any place where there is metal close to the wireing, i think its some thing that is shorting out, check your grounds to, good luck with it

 

How about a even quicker solution, easier then rewiring the car, or following each and every wire on that fuse. Grab a VOM and check for continuity between the wires in question and ground. If it's a power wire it shouldn't have continuity between ground and said wire.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16ahybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How about a even quicker solution, easier then rewiring the car, or following each and every wire on that fuse. Grab a VOM and check for continuity between the wires in question and ground. If it's a power wire it shouldn't have continuity between ground and said wire. </TD></TR></TABLE>

tried it-

problem is that its interminent at best... and everything checks out when its not popped. if i could only have the meter on the right wire at the exact moment it pops... i'd be all set. its just impossible

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1CYA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the gromets on the fire wall and any place where there is metal close to the wireing, i think its some thing that is shorting out, check your grounds to, good luck with it </TD></TR></TABLE> there realy isnt going to be an easy way to fix it just going to have to look at every inch of wire and check every ground if they are loose they will cause a voltage spike when it connects and pop the fuse.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1CYA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> there realy isnt going to be an easy way to fix it just going to have to look at every inch of wire and check every ground if they are loose they will cause a voltage spike when it connects and pop the fuse.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this sucks so bad.

someone buy this pos from me

 

short to ground some where in one of those 4 circuts. get your dmm out, helms, a bottle of advil, and get ready for a long night

 

That fuse will go to your main relay. With it being a intermittant problem, it is going to suck to troubleshoot. From the main relay it will go to the fuel pump, the ecu, and strut tower where the ignition feed is split throughout the motor. My money would be it being something in the engine bay. On the driver's strut tower, there is a plug with a bunch of yellow/blk wires only on one side. If you pull that plug you will see a metal bar which splits the ignition feed from the main relay to every ignition input on the engine (injectors, o2, etc.) If I were you, rig up something to split up the feed differently with individual fuses (3A or so) that way you can still drive the car until hopefully only one of those fuses blow and then you will now have your path more closely pinpointed.

 

this is an old thread from the dead.... but for the sake of archives--

problem ended up being that my o2 harness hit my downpipe, melted, and 3 of the 4 wires became one circuit.

so, if you start popping the fuse i mention, don't swap out your fuel pump 7 times. unplug the o2 harness first and see if that was it

 

just saw this thread. I was going to suggest you do one of two things. First check the o2 wires and make sure it was not hitting your exhaust. I had the same problem when I did the 3.8l supercharge swap in my fiero. I ran the o2 wires and they were hitting my pipe and I was blowing fuses. I got so pissed I just put a paper clip in until this **** started a minor fire. That helped me find the short real fast. I just rewired the few burnt wires and never had a problem since.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by underpressure02 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just saw this thread. I was going to suggest you do one of two things. First check the o2 wires and make sure it was not hitting your exhaust. I had the same problem when I did the 3.8l supercharge swap in my fiero. I ran the o2 wires and they were hitting my pipe and I was blowing fuses. I got so pissed I just put a paper clip in until this **** started a minor fire. That helped me find the short real fast. I just rewired the few burnt wires and never had a problem since. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Guess you didnt read his last post.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Calculator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Guess you didnt read his last post.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Guess you did not read my post close enough.

 

dunno if this helps... but i had a similar problem. my o2 sensor was touching the body of the car and grounding out. the result was my VSS fuse blowing every now and then. i pulled the sensor out for a while drove it around for a weekend... didn't blow all weekend compared to blowing 3-4 times a day. i had my testpipe modified (mine was the secondary o2) the following monday and it's been fine every since.

 

scroll up before you reply THIS I SOLVED

https://honda-tech.com/zero...62198



just trying to save some people typing... heh