The other day i went to take my car out for a ride, when this started happening. First note that its been around 40 degrees where i live so its not blazing hot out. Now ill drive my car for about a good 20 minutes without any problems, after that ~20 minute mark, if i boost or put any heavy load (uphill etc) on the engine, the temp gauge will read on the upwards of 3/4 to the red. Usually the gauge reads just about halfway when running normal. I tryed flushing the radiator, adding 50/50 coolant water mixture, i did the boil the thermostat test and it worked fine. I dont think it could be the headgasket because its a fresh motor with only about 700 miles, no visible leaks, no coolant in the oil and no white smoke. The only other thing is that the overflow bottle does fill up when this starts to occur. I did buy a new thermo just to make sure and im gonna go replace that now to see if it helps but im unsure, if you have any suggestions please let me know, i was planning on hitting the track tommorrow night!

EDIT: there is also no leaks coming from any of the coolant hoses.

 

Check to see if you have any air pockets in the system , bleed the coolant .

 

Try replacing your radiator cap.

 

1. Use Water wetter it keeps temps lower than regular coolant and its not corrosive as coolant is.

2.Bleed the sistem,you probably have bubbles.

3. I had exactly the same problem as you describe, only that im N/A not boosted(yet)..For me it turned out to be a broken HG..so u might want to check that. Do a compression test...it usually shows if there is a broken/leaking HG and it tells you where(usually u get low #'s where it is broken)

 

save yourself some money and drop 1-2 drops of liquid hand soap in your coolant instead of using water wetter .... no I'm not kidding- it will do the same thing.

 

I bled the system and it still does it, the head gasket only has like 700 miles on it, i used a metal y8 headgasket, i dont see how it would break so soon? ill go do a comp. test i guess....it does feel kinda sluggish

 

Is the block built with ARP head studs? If it is then ill take out the HG theory..

but an improper instalation of HG will blow it no matter if you have 700 miles on it..I had 2 stripped screws/bolts on my block and that caused the HG to blow after 3-4 month after installing it.

Check if there are Oil residues on the Coolant reservoir...Usually the car iddles a lil rough if the HG is broken, like if yuo had a big cam.

 

Compression numbers are a even 180 across all 4 cylinders, so id say i could rule out the HG. I changed the radiator cap and bled it once again, and drained the overflow tank. Took it for another 10 minute ride, stays where it should but once i start boosting it, it goes back up into the 3/4 range, and fills the overflow tank. Could it be my radiator? I did try flushing it out but only with water, is there a better procedure i should try? Im thinking it has to be my radiator....

 

i used new oem studs, and torqued them to the helms specs.

I guess im just getting use to the 13 psi, cuz now that i beat on it it isnt sluggish.

 

I had the same problem on my b18 w/oem studs. I also had good compression all the way across and the car ran fine. buy a set of ARP head studs and do it right. 9 time out of 10 you will have problems with oem studs especaily if they are used

 

They were brand new oem studs that i put in, did your car over heat with the oems? I really dont understand what you were saying? Is it possible that i just need to re-torque them? I cant afford to go buy some arp studs...

 

Ah, sounds like the tragedy that cripled my D series. Here are a great list of things that might be wrong!
1) bad HG, just get it over with and pull the head, check the gasket. look for outright destruction or specific areas of gasket failure. This can be caused by number 2
2) Shitty block decking...yes it happens when morons are at the helm when decking your block...infact, the decking marks are still visible on my block, thats NOT GOOD. My block is mostly flat but has a wave thats oh so subtle and once it overheated once it became very unsubtle. This destroyed 2 head gaskets, yay. Solution, tear it ALL down, and resurface. How do i know its the block...after overheating past red 3 times the head was still perfect when removed and im not kidding. What happens when you have a problem like this? Gassing, coolant gets into cyliners, gets evaporated and your coolant system is useless if your lucky to no blow a radiator(i lost 1), this can also lead to cracked cylinder walls.
3) hope this is your problem, air leak in the external coolant system, like the heater core or a gasket or hose attaching point.

Hope its a simple problem man, my motor is still lifeless on a pallete in my back yard

No time till summer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITSTOCK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They were brand new oem studs that i put in, did your car over heat with the oems? I really dont understand what you were saying? Is it possible that i just need to re-torque them? I cant afford to go buy some arp studs...</TD></TR></TABLE>
OEM studs are prone to stretching. mine were used and that was a mistake. the can ran fine for about 1000 miles then started overheating

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stickdeath &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
OEM studs are prone to stretching. mine were used and that was a mistake. the can ran fine for about 1000 miles then started overheating</TD></TR></TABLE>

good point!! Use good aftermarket studs, there are other companies than ARP but ARP work perfectly. Stickdeath, great signature! Its a way to live.

 

Think you're running lean enough to make it that hot? Possibly a backwards thermostat...but I'm guessing that would overheat no matter what.

 

One of my hoses is missing a clamp, the hose that comes off the pipe that goes to the water pump. The hose from that pipe to the thermostat, and is missing a clamp, could it be sucking in air? Also, when i got my block back it appeared like it wasnt decked, and i told them to check it and make sure it was a flat surface, so either they checked it and it didnt need to be decked or they just forgot that part. UGH i relaly dont wanna have to pull this thing out again, getting sick of working on this ******* thing!

 

touch the top and bottom off the radiator hose to see if it hot. Your radiator might be clog at the bottom. The water didn't circulate thru the radiator but to built up water at the top. I would take the radiator out and have it clean.

 

well my top radiator hose gets really hot, bottom gets hot too but not as hot.

 

The bottom half of the radiator is in shitty shape, the fins are all crushed and it looksl ike it could pop anytime.

 

When i bleed the coolant system, water trickles out of the screw, but its full of air bubbles, i just let it sit and idle for about 10 minutes and the water just bubbles out. I went for about a 5 minute ride and it got up to normal temps but the lower hose didnt really get hot, is it possible that my water pump **** the bed?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITSTOCK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I went for about a 5 minute ride and it got up to normal temps but the lower hose didnt really get hot, is it possible that my water pump **** the bed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If the lower hose didn't really get hot, most likely you radiator is clogged at the bottom. I have seen radiator had build-up a lot of crap at the bottom.

 

I swapped radiators and it seems to be fine now. Now another problem has arise, the god damn thing keeps on stalling like its getting overloaded with gas. This things pissing me off and im about to just part the ******* thing out.

 

are you currently running turbo with some kind of engine manament?

 

read my sig

 

Glad your coolant issue is delt with. I don't take those issues too seriously. It's more of a pain in the *** to figure out what it is, then it is to fix it. Always something stupid...are you using stock injectors?