i have a '92 lude si with a jdm h22a. the car has a weird hesitation/bog situation going on. it's super smooth between 2-3k rpm and hesitates at 3-4k rpm then picks up at 4-5k rpm then it looses tons of power at the vtec crossover and vtec is so weak that i might as well not even have it.

what's even worse is that it has good power when i'm on the gas 15-25% but when at WOT it has NO *****.

after 15-35 minutes of driving i get a check engine light with is code 1. when the light is on, it runs like TOTAL garbage..so i shut the car off turn it back on w/o the code and it runs smoother, but still with a huge hesitation like i described.

so far, i've checked compression which is 215 across the board, changed ignition wires/02 sensor/spark plugs and switched two wires on the driver's side fender. (i think egr wires) i've also checked the wht 02 sensor wire at the ecu when the car is running it it fluctuates .1-.9v.

any help or suggestions much appreciated

 

i have the same problem.
code 1. 4 new o2's and still code 1.
now this is not my car, but a locals car. he has a 94 lude that was a h23. h23 took a **** so i put a jdm h22 in for him. it ran good with the h23 ecu(p14 i think) but a little on the non performance with no vtec of corse. then i got him a jdm p13, from a friend. it ran good for awhile then just got worse and worse. just like the problem you have, and code 1. i pulled out my ******* hair on this one. so i put the h23 ecu back in, set the timing to 15. and it runs like a champ. pulls hard, but still no vtec. and he risked the chance of leaning out, because i know this kid beats the **** out of his car. so know im almost 100% sure its the ecu. but i got it from a friend who i trust 100%. i know he wouldn't sell me the ecu if it was bad. the computer was find when he had it in his 97 accord with a jdm h22 with this computer. over time could the ecu get worse and worse?
does anyone have a complete "how-to" on back probing the ecu's o2 circuit?
would a helms have this "how-to"
i need help on this one, any help would be awsome!

 

that was my EXACT situation...i thought that maybe the computer was the problem...but i tried putting in a chipped p28 and it still ran that way. i don't think it's the computer....i'm thinking that because the car is running so rich it's screwing up the 02 sensor...but why is the car running rich in the first place?

btw, what is up with the timing marks? there is no marks on the crank pulley for my engine...i see a + mark when i put a timing light down through the hole near the engine code and i see 2 white marks to the right that are barely visible. do i center that + mark in between the 2 white marks to get to 16 degrees?

 

well first off a h22 is going to run like **** with a p28. a p28 runs saturated injectors and a p13 runs peak hold. what injectors are you running? was your car running good before this problem? is your ecu jdm or us?
does your car run good when you first start it, and after it warms up it throws code one and runs like ****?
the timing marks are ten degrees. so the first one is 0 the 10. so you move your dial on your timing light to 15-16(where ever you want it), move the dizzy until that second mark lines up with your light. get it? it not like a b-series, but setting timing is setting timing on any car.
did you try the h23 ecu?

 

i'm running h22 injectors. my car ran fine before the h22 swap. i have a jdm p13 running it now. my car runs like **** when i first start it up..seem like i'm missing all the time along with the hesitation. once the car hits exactly normal temperature, it almost instantly doesn't have the misfire anymore but still has the hesitation. the ecu throws a code 1 pretty much anytime it wants to. i'm thinking about sending the ecu back to hmotors to get it tested. for now, i'll knock back the timing an run the p14.

i don't have a dial on my timing light..so how does that work? do i have to put th + mark in between the 2 marks to right or would i have to it 16 degrees ahead of those marks?

 

hey talk to 4bidden or search his post i think he had the same problem!!!

 

I do in fact have the same problem....somewhat. Its off/on so hard to tell if I've cured it yet.

However, your situation sounds a little different.

Code 1 does not mean its definately the o2 sensor.

Have you checked your injectors? Fuel pressure? Sometimes the injectors that come in JDM H22 are so clogged that the motor runs crappy and very lean. The lean condition will cause the Code 1. It runs ok at partial throttle because the ECU is reading from the o2, seeing that its lean, and dumping more fuel which helps your situation. The P14 makes it feel better because the fuel maps are way off and dump more fuel since its maps are designed for 240cc injectors, not 345 like the JDM H22.


So check your fuel supply and post back. Might have to PM me a link to the thread, I dont come in here often.

 

how would i go about checking my injectors and fuel pressure? what is the difference between h23 and h22 injectors? maybe i switched the injectors around when the motor was put in.

i checked my plugs and they get black very quickly...wouldn't that mean i was running rich instead of lean?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4bidden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I do in fact have the same problem....somewhat. Its off/on so hard to tell if I've cured it yet.

However, your situation sounds a little different.

Code 1 does not mean its definately the o2 sensor.

Have you checked your injectors? Fuel pressure? Sometimes the injectors that come in JDM H22 are so clogged that the motor runs crappy and very lean. The lean condition will cause the Code 1. It runs ok at partial throttle because the ECU is reading from the o2, seeing that its lean, and dumping more fuel which helps your situation. The P14 makes it feel better because the fuel maps are way off and dump more fuel since its maps are designed for 240cc injectors, not 345 like the JDM H22.


So check your fuel supply and post back. Might have to PM me a link to the thread, I dont come in here often.</TD></TR></TABLE>


i have tried both injectors and they do the same thing.(h23 and h22) maybe ill get a hold of the guy. pop a new fuel filter, have the h22 injector cleaned.(because they are off the car now anyways) and see what it does. code 1 description: fuel supply system, o2 heater, o2 wiring, or ecu. well i know the wiring on the o2 is good, because i just put one in, so it down to fuel supply, or ecu.
are the h22 and h23 fuel pump different?

 

i imagine the pumps are the same...lots of other people have done this swap and haven' had to worry about switching pumps..maybe both our pumps are bad bun unlikely.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yOnKiNaToR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i imagine the pumps are the same...lots of other people have done this swap and haven' had to worry about switching pumps..maybe both our pumps are bad bun unlikely.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i need to get to the bottom of this. i need to run this computer on another car. but this is the only guy i know with a vtec lude. this sucks!

 

since i got the motor from hmotorsonline i'm gonna see if i can send my p13 back to them and have them test it. it runs literally perfect on the p14 so i swear it HAS to be the ecu.

i heard that inside ecu's they have these injector chips or something like that. they control the injectors and if one or two go bad it can make your car run like ****...i wonder if that's it?

 

My buddy had the same exact problem with the code 1...it was in his fuel supply system.

Swap the FPR for a known good one and see if that does anything. You need to get the H22 injectors back in there...the H23 ones will NOT run that motor well AT ALL, especially with the H22 ECU.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4bidden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My buddy had the same exact problem with the code 1...it was in his fuel supply system.

Swap the FPR for a known good one and see if that does anything. You need to get the H22 injectors back in there...the H23 ones will NOT run that motor well AT ALL, especially with the H22 ECU.</TD></TR></TABLE>


to tell you the truth, it runs better with the h23 injectors. the car does not have the problem until the car is at full running temp. and it does not run bad all the time. but it did get worse over time. the fuel regulator is ok. i thinking it is going to be the ecu. jdm p13's suck *****.

 

Well it should not run better with the H23 injectors at ALL. I put some H23 in my H22 and the car did not even want to run and would NOT accelerate.

I know you said the o2 wiring is good, but is the actual sensor ok?

 

i originally had a code 41 so i replaced the 02 sensor, but now i'm getting a code 1. i'm not sure which injectors are actually in the car...how do i tell the h23 and h22 injectors apart? i believe one set has blue marker on them and the other orange. maybe i should take out the injectors and clean them?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4bidden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well it should not run better with the H23 injectors at ALL. I put some H23 in my H22 and the car did not even want to run and would NOT accelerate.

I know you said the o2 wiring is good, but is the actual sensor ok?</TD></TR></TABLE>

like i said before, i put 4 o2's in the car.
the dude spend a lot of money on o2's

 

any luck yet rathead?

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yOnKiNaToR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any luck yet rathead?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i haven't seen the guy around in like a month. he should stop by soon.
then i am going to try cleaning the injectors and a new fuel filter. ill keep you updated for sure when i know anything.

 

i had the same problem, take it to a dyno and you can see why its not making the power from the AF. Check the resistance on the MAP and the TPS, just in case something was to go bad, they have almost the same symptoms. I went as far as changing my entire fuel delivery system, walboro, sx reg, stainless lines from tank. sx filter, str rail, rc injectors. didn't help. I had jdm p13 in there and afc, tossed the p13 for remapped p28 and went on my way with so much more power. if i can dig up the old dynos before and after i will post them. Take your car to the dyno and see whats going on under there. and on a lude motor the timing is done from the tranny service hole not at the crank.

 

Another thing if your a swapped car with a lude get a lude fuel pump at least, and a 1:1 FPR

 

well, i put the h22 in a prelude that previously had an h23 with almost exactly the same torque so fuel pump's should be the same or close enough where it doesn't matter....besides, i've heard lots of people doing these swaps without swapping fuel pumps so i wouldn't think it's an issue...i swear it feels like it's pulling timing...maybe i should try setting the distributor timing waaay retarded and see if it does anything.

 

anybody know how to tell the difference between h23 and h22 injectors?

 

bump