Code 6 when i put car in reverse! Coolant Temp sensor....help! and radiator fan is ALWAYS on....
ok so when i put the car in reverse the check engine light comes on and also my radiator fan will always come on...even with the car not turned on but on the 2nd ign. turn i guess if you want to call it that. i checked the code and its a code 6 which is a coolant temp sensor. so most likely this would be bad right? well...the thing is the temp gauge still works...so wouldn't this be a sign that the CTS is working and maybe its a bad radiator fan relay? i don't have any tools to check it so yeah...just trying to get some advice before buying anything i don't need. thanks for the help.
oh yeah...i have a 88crx hf with a 94-95 B16A3 in her. where exactly is my radiator fan relay? i think the CTS is right under the dizzy.
last thing....haha sorry...why would it make the check engine light come on and the car seems to want to die out whenever i put the car in reverse? this is ONLY with the reverse light connector plugged IN...if i unplug the yellow connector.....there isn't this problem. sure beats the hell out of me...
code 6 - coolant temp is the sensor for the ECU which is not the same sensor as the gauge - there are 2 on the head - the coolant temp switch for the fan is on the back of the block - the cooloing fan relay is on the passenger side inner fender panel just behind headlight and above battery
oh so even tho my gauge still works...it has nothing to do with the CTS in other words? hmmm...so should i try the relay first since the fan is always on--even with just the ign. turned without the car on. oh and there is two on the head? hmmm...which one would i wanna check? what sensor is the one near the dizzy? cause in my haynes manual..it says the CTS is near the dizzy
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Project_ED8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">last thing....haha sorry...why would it make the check engine light come on and the car seems to want to die out whenever i put the car in reverse? this is ONLY with the reverse light connector plugged IN...if i unplug the yellow connector.....there isn't this problem. sure beats the hell out of me...</TD></TR></TABLE>the HF has a signal from the back-up lights to the ECU at pin-out B9, green with black stripe wire - try unplugging it from the ECU
sweet. in my other thread this guy was talking about the hf and something with the reverse problem but he never fully answered my question. what you just described probably is what he was going to tell me. thanks! i'll try it out in the morning. unpluggin this won't cause the ecu to throw any codes?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Project_ED8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sweet. in my other thread this guy was talking about the hf and something with the reverse problem but he never fully answered my question. what you just described probably is what he was going to tell me. thanks! i'll try it out in the morning. unpluggin this won't cause the ecu to throw any codes?</TD></TR></TABLE>No - this wire is only present on the HF, not on DX or Si
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlicrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No - this wire is only present on the HF, not on DX or Si </TD></TR></TABLE>
cool thanks. this may sound stupid but better safe than sorry...after unplugging the wire from the ecu and if this solves my reverse problem...can i just cut off the connector on the wire where it plugs into the ecu since i won't need it anymore?
yeah...i see what you mean about the 2 sensors now...took me awhie to figure it out haha. the one on the back of the block is the coolant temperature switch for the fan...and the one near the dizzy and vtec solenoid is the ECT-engine coolant temperature sensor...i was confusing the two. so i guess i just need a new engine coolant temp sensor.....can i use any or does it have to be from a b16 motor or something? i think i have an extra one from my old si D16A6 motor laying around here.....
cool thanks. this may sound stupid but better safe than sorry...after unplugging the wire from the ecu and if this solves my reverse problem...can i just cut off the connector on the wire where it plugs into the ecu since i won't need it anymore?
yeah...i see what you mean about the 2 sensors now...took me awhie to figure it out haha. the one on the back of the block is the coolant temperature switch for the fan...and the one near the dizzy and vtec solenoid is the ECT-engine coolant temperature sensor...i was confusing the two. so i guess i just need a new engine coolant temp sensor.....can i use any or does it have to be from a b16 motor or something? i think i have an extra one from my old si D16A6 motor laying around here.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Project_ED8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sweet. in my other thread this guy was talking about the hf and something with the reverse problem but he never fully answered my question. what you just described probably is what he was going to tell me. thanks! i'll try it out in the morning. unpluggin this won't cause the ecu to throw any codes?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, that was me, I never fully answered your question because you never fully explained your symptoms, .....until you posted this following thread.......hehehehe. I wouldnt want to give you the wrong diagnosis.
Yep, its B-9 that you need to cut. Its only on the HF's for ECU to know when the vehicle is backing up. I guess its to retard timing or something during backing up to FUTHER decrease GAS consumption........crazy stuff Honda does I tell ya!!
If you know how to pull the pin out safely, do that, otherwise just cut B-9 and tape both ends. This shouldnt effect the PR3 or PWO ecu.
Modified by HandCommand at 12:03 PM 11/21/2003
Yep, that was me, I never fully answered your question because you never fully explained your symptoms, .....until you posted this following thread.......hehehehe. I wouldnt want to give you the wrong diagnosis.
Yep, its B-9 that you need to cut. Its only on the HF's for ECU to know when the vehicle is backing up. I guess its to retard timing or something during backing up to FUTHER decrease GAS consumption........crazy stuff Honda does I tell ya!!
If you know how to pull the pin out safely, do that, otherwise just cut B-9 and tape both ends. This shouldnt effect the PR3 or PWO ecu.
Modified by HandCommand at 12:03 PM 11/21/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HandCommand »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yep, that was me, I never fully answered your question because you never fully explained your symptoms, .....until you posted this following thread.......hehehehe. I wouldnt want to give you the wrong diagnosis.
Yep, its B-9 that you need to cut. Its only on the HF's for ECU to know when the vehicle is backing up. I guess its to retard timing or something during backing up to FUTHER decrease GAS consumption........crazy stuff Honda does I tell ya!!
If you know how to pull the pin out safely, do that, otherwise just cut B-9 and tape both ends. This shouldnt effect the PR3 or PWO ecu.
Modified by HandCommand at 12:03 PM 11/21/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha yea i figured that. thanks for the help tho. ever since i got my car back from this half-*** swap job...honda-tech has been nothing but helpful thanks a lot guys! damn.....i should of just did this swap myself and any trouble i could of just asked on here! but yeah...how do you pull the wire out from the ecu? do u need a special tool? i'll probably just cut it but if i shouldn't cut it let me know. oh btw...B-9...what plug is that one? the fat green one...or one of the two smaller black ones?
Yep, that was me, I never fully answered your question because you never fully explained your symptoms, .....until you posted this following thread.......hehehehe. I wouldnt want to give you the wrong diagnosis.
Yep, its B-9 that you need to cut. Its only on the HF's for ECU to know when the vehicle is backing up. I guess its to retard timing or something during backing up to FUTHER decrease GAS consumption........crazy stuff Honda does I tell ya!!
If you know how to pull the pin out safely, do that, otherwise just cut B-9 and tape both ends. This shouldnt effect the PR3 or PWO ecu.
Modified by HandCommand at 12:03 PM 11/21/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha yea i figured that. thanks for the help tho. ever since i got my car back from this half-*** swap job...honda-tech has been nothing but helpful thanks a lot guys! damn.....i should of just did this swap myself and any trouble i could of just asked on here! but yeah...how do you pull the wire out from the ecu? do u need a special tool? i'll probably just cut it but if i shouldn't cut it let me know. oh btw...B-9...what plug is that one? the fat green one...or one of the two smaller black ones?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlicrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should be able to use the CTS from the D16A6</TD></TR></TABLE>
isn't it since i have the OBD-1 B16A3 i can't use a D16A6 engine coolant temperature sensor since the si D16A6 motor is OBD0 and so is that sensor...so i would need any honda motor engine coolant temperature sensor from 94+?
isn't it since i have the OBD-1 B16A3 i can't use a D16A6 engine coolant temperature sensor since the si D16A6 motor is OBD0 and so is that sensor...so i would need any honda motor engine coolant temperature sensor from 94+?
ok guys i think i found the problem. well the connector was unplugged for the CTS-coolant temp. switch but for the fan--the one on the BACK of the block...not the ECT-engine coolant temperature SENSOR near the vtec solenoid and dizzy on the left side of the motor. and as i looked closer...seems the connector was ON the sensor...but the sensor broke off the block! sooo...i guess i need to replace that sensor....but my question is...what EXACTLY is it called...cause the ECT-engine coolant temperature sensor comes up as the sensor on the left side of the block on some parts websites i've been searching on the net. ....well hopefully this solves the problem.
also for that sensor....it seems to me that there should be two wires going to it? the CTS on the back on the block. well...mine only has one..umm red and green or something i forgot. the other hole in the connector where a wire should be is covered. is this right?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlicrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">both are next to each other - gauge sending unit has 1 wire yellow/green - CTS has 2 wires red/white and green/white </TD></TR></TABLE>
hmm...the CTS...i found that on the left side of the motor...and yea it had red\white and green\white wires. now the other sensor on the back on the block only had one wire...i think it was red\blue and the other hole where a wire should be was covered up for that connector....should there be two on this sensor or only one?
hmm...the CTS...i found that on the left side of the motor...and yea it had red\white and green\white wires. now the other sensor on the back on the block only had one wire...i think it was red\blue and the other hole where a wire should be was covered up for that connector....should there be two on this sensor or only one?
one more thing...i dont know if this applies to my B16A3(are the jdm sensors different?) but yeah...i was reading some other threads when i searched for ECT or such...and they said that there sensor is ON the thermostat housing? so....is this where mine is? cause if so...there is NO sensor plugged into the brown connector ON the thermostat housing. BUT...on the left side of the head...i'm thinking this is where MY ect is? is this right?
damn am i getting confused! threads i've been reading say the cooling temp. FAN switch(not the ECT) is near the vtec solenoid and dizzy...but i thought this sensor was the engine coolant temperature SENSOR??? and i thought on the back of the block...is the cooling temp. fan SWITCH? also...what is this sensor people seem to be talking about on my thermostat? is this the fan switch? cause its not being used at all and there is nothing plugged into it.
haha ok i dont think its the cooling fan temp. switch on the back of the block that is dead. turns out the two prongs i saw i thought that those were just pieces broken off from that sensor, but those are suppose to be there so yeah...my question is he has a wire going straight from that sensor on the back of the block to the ecu...is that right? maybe this is causing the code 6 and causing my fan to always be on?
oh man...the sensor back on the back on the block..that is my knock sensor. LOL...i traced the wire back to the ecu...and its hooked up to pin B19 on the ecu so yeah...wth i thought it was the coolant fan switch??? lol...cause when you guys said back of block...and i saw this i thought that is what you guys meant. lol damn...today is a bad day for me! =/ well...i guess i'll be replacing the ECT...and this is the sensor near the dizzy and vtec solenoid right? its not the sensor on the thermostat housing right?
hmm ok now i see. the two ECT sensors are....one on the thermostat housing...and one on the left side of the motor, near the dizzy and vtec solenoid. now this is the problem...wth isn't there a connector going into the ECT switch on the thermostat housing??? there is one for the ECT sensor near the dizzy...but no connector into the sensor on the thermostat housing. would this cause my code 6 or did the guy who installed my motor just jump this sensor???
The older B16's have the coolant temp switch(sensor that tells the fan to come on) on the back of the block. The newer B16's(92-newer) are on the tstat housing. If the swap was done correctly it should be plugged in on the tstat housing. The sensor on the head is the ECT. Hope that clears things up.
there is nothing plugged into my coolant temp switch on the thermostat(i have no connector or anything for this) so is this causing my fan to stay on??? is there any way to fix this? do i have to buy a sensor or something? how does the fan stay on with no coolant temp. switch on the thermostat housing? is it hard wired or something?
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