Adjusting clutch pedal...
Ok, I'm referring to the 98 integra helms manual: p. 12-4.
I'm having problems with what is referred to as "locknut C" in the diagram. It's supposed to be tight as 9 lb-ft, but it's freaking impossible to loosen from the push rod that goes to the clutch MC.
I am able to turn "locknut C," but it turns the push rod along with it. 
So basically, I'm turning the push rod and giving it MORE length between the clutch MC and the pedal. I need less length here, as my clutch lets out too high. I'd like it to engage a little closer to the floor instead of the 1cm from fully out that it is now.
I've tried holding the push rod with vice grips and turning "locknut C" to no avail. The push rod still turns in the grip of the vice grips when I turn "locknut C."
I can't believe the push rod doesn't have a hole through it, or an octagonal section you could hold with a crescent wrench.
Anyone got some tips?
The boot that the push rod goes through to the clutch MC is a little moist (as seems to be normal), but how bad should it be before I replace the clutch MC?
I'm having problems with what is referred to as "locknut C" in the diagram. It's supposed to be tight as 9 lb-ft, but it's freaking impossible to loosen from the push rod that goes to the clutch MC.
I am able to turn "locknut C," but it turns the push rod along with it. 
So basically, I'm turning the push rod and giving it MORE length between the clutch MC and the pedal. I need less length here, as my clutch lets out too high. I'd like it to engage a little closer to the floor instead of the 1cm from fully out that it is now.

I've tried holding the push rod with vice grips and turning "locknut C" to no avail. The push rod still turns in the grip of the vice grips when I turn "locknut C."

I can't believe the push rod doesn't have a hole through it, or an octagonal section you could hold with a crescent wrench.

Anyone got some tips?
The boot that the push rod goes through to the clutch MC is a little moist (as seems to be normal), but how bad should it be before I replace the clutch MC?
Simmilar issue that Bob#455 is having, however he wants his clutch a little higher, I'm going to have to try this soon too, as my pedal height it just a little too low at the moment.
Austin
Austin
this sounds like the nut that has to be loosened to do the adjustment for exedy organic clutches, if i'm not mistaken.. there was a trick to it, and sgT told me what it was.. this was over a year ago, so now I can't remember.. try PMing him, maybe..
it CAN be done, I know.. mine was a pain to do too..
it CAN be done, I know.. mine was a pain to do too..
There are 2 12mm(maybe 14mm) nuts. all you do to break the lock(top) nut loose is use 2 open wrenches. adjust the pedal stroke length by turning the other (adjusting) nut in the direction you want the push rod length to shorten or loosen. tighten lock nut. done.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tilt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There are 2 12mm(maybe 14mm) nuts. all you do to break the lock(top) nut loose is use 2 open wrenches. adjust the pedal stroke length by turning the other (adjusting) nut in the direction you want the push rod length to shorten or loosen. tighten lock nut. done. </TD></TR></TABLE>
thats how i did mine!
thats how i did mine!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tilt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There are 2 12mm(maybe 14mm) nuts. all you do to break the lock(top) nut loose is use 2 open wrenches. adjust the pedal stroke length by turning the other (adjusting) nut in the direction you want the push rod length to shorten or loosen. tighten lock nut. done. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Looking at the diagram, it appears you are referring to the CLUTCH SWITCH (or ADJUSTING BOLT). I am referring to the PUSH ROD and LOCKNUT C.
Your method is effectively adjusting PRELOAD, not the actual throw of the push rod... Thus, it is incorrect for the adjustment I need.
Dammit, I wish I had a scanner.....
Looking at the diagram, it appears you are referring to the CLUTCH SWITCH (or ADJUSTING BOLT). I am referring to the PUSH ROD and LOCKNUT C.
Your method is effectively adjusting PRELOAD, not the actual throw of the push rod... Thus, it is incorrect for the adjustment I need.
Dammit, I wish I had a scanner.....
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's supposed to be tight as 9 lb-ft, but it's freaking impossible to loosen from the push rod that goes to the clutch MC.
I am able to turn "locknut C," but it turns the push rod along with it. 
So basically, I'm turning the push rod and giving it MORE length between the clutch MC and the pedal. I need less length here, as my clutch lets out too high. I'd like it to engage a little closer to the floor instead of the 1cm from fully out that it is now.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This was my exact problem too. My ACT clutch engaged to high, I needed it to engage closer to the floor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've tried holding the push rod with vice grips and turning "locknut C" to no avail. The push rod still turns in the grip of the vice grips when I turn "locknut C."
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup. I was upside down, killing my back doing this. However, with a VERY tight grip on the push rod with vice grips (it might have been a pair of pliers - the round opening would provide a better contact patch), I was able to bust it loose. It left a couple of teeth marks on the push rod. A very annoying piece of maintenance. Well worth it though, as I love the clutch engagement.
I am able to turn "locknut C," but it turns the push rod along with it. 
So basically, I'm turning the push rod and giving it MORE length between the clutch MC and the pedal. I need less length here, as my clutch lets out too high. I'd like it to engage a little closer to the floor instead of the 1cm from fully out that it is now.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
This was my exact problem too. My ACT clutch engaged to high, I needed it to engage closer to the floor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've tried holding the push rod with vice grips and turning "locknut C" to no avail. The push rod still turns in the grip of the vice grips when I turn "locknut C."
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yup. I was upside down, killing my back doing this. However, with a VERY tight grip on the push rod with vice grips (it might have been a pair of pliers - the round opening would provide a better contact patch), I was able to bust it loose. It left a couple of teeth marks on the push rod. A very annoying piece of maintenance. Well worth it though, as I love the clutch engagement.
i actually replied to an old post with full pictures and everything on how to do this..not sure what happened to it tho
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98R-1144 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i actually replied to an old post with full pictures and everything on how to do this..not sure what happened to it tho
</TD></TR></TABLE>
.....I think this is the thread you are referring to:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=297560
</TD></TR></TABLE>.....I think this is the thread you are referring to:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=297560
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Austin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Simmilar issue that Bob#455 is having, however he wants his clutch a little higher, I'm going to have to try this soon too, as my pedal height it just a little too low at the moment.
Austin</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think I need to decrease the length of the push rod, not increase it. Either way, I could not get locknut C to budge...I stopped because I was afraid I would screw up the push rod with the vice grips. Did you try to adjust yours yet Austin?
Austin</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think I need to decrease the length of the push rod, not increase it. Either way, I could not get locknut C to budge...I stopped because I was afraid I would screw up the push rod with the vice grips. Did you try to adjust yours yet Austin?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bob#455 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I think I need to decrease the length of the push rod, not increase it. Either way, I could not get locknut C to budge...I stopped because I was afraid I would screw up the push rod with the vice grips. Did you try to adjust yours yet Austin?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haven't touched it yet, I've been working a little too much, and I haven't gotten around to it yet.
Austin
I think I need to decrease the length of the push rod, not increase it. Either way, I could not get locknut C to budge...I stopped because I was afraid I would screw up the push rod with the vice grips. Did you try to adjust yours yet Austin?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haven't touched it yet, I've been working a little too much, and I haven't gotten around to it yet.
Austin
*update:
I got the locknut "C" loose. I had a pair of long pipe wrench pliers and put it around the push rod. Then I used another pair of long pipe wrench pliers to hold the handles of the 1st set and apply much more pressure. Then I used a 12mm crescent wrench to break the locknut C loose.
Is there a spring somewhere hidden in the push rod assemmbly? The reason I ask, is that without the locknut C loose - the push rod would rotate and rotate the locknut C with it - but it would try to go back to it's original position. But once I got locknut C loose, it would rotate a lot easier.
Now the clutch engages/ disengages a lot closer to the floor..... BUT, it feels really light after the clutch is engaged. I took up all the slack possible by lengthening the CLUTCH SWITCH (or ADJUSTING BOLT), but maybe I need to replace it with a longer one..... Oh well, off to Lowe's now..... And yes, I did GOUGE the **** out of the push rod. LOL.
I got the locknut "C" loose. I had a pair of long pipe wrench pliers and put it around the push rod. Then I used another pair of long pipe wrench pliers to hold the handles of the 1st set and apply much more pressure. Then I used a 12mm crescent wrench to break the locknut C loose.
Is there a spring somewhere hidden in the push rod assemmbly? The reason I ask, is that without the locknut C loose - the push rod would rotate and rotate the locknut C with it - but it would try to go back to it's original position. But once I got locknut C loose, it would rotate a lot easier. Now the clutch engages/ disengages a lot closer to the floor..... BUT, it feels really light after the clutch is engaged. I took up all the slack possible by lengthening the CLUTCH SWITCH (or ADJUSTING BOLT), but maybe I need to replace it with a longer one..... Oh well, off to Lowe's now..... And yes, I did GOUGE the **** out of the push rod. LOL.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And yes, I did GOUGE the **** out of the push rod. LOL. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I wonder if it's possible to loosen locknut C without gouging the **** out of the push rod? Judging for my previous experience, I'm guessing not.
I wonder if it's possible to loosen locknut C without gouging the **** out of the push rod? Judging for my previous experience, I'm guessing not.
I had the same prob!!! I had to grip the fool outta the shaft with vicegrips & it finally broke loose but, I had to work for it!!!
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98vtec
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Jan 12, 2007 02:44 PM





