Help!! Z6 mini-me swap idles at 3500 RPM.
The setup is a 88 CRX SI D16A6 block with Z6 head and intake manifold, I am using the A6 distributor. As far I am told and I can tell everything is plugged in as it should be.
when I start the car it idled at 3500 RPM. The mani has a purge solenoid which I was told I did not need and to disconeect it from the mani nipple and plug one of the lines from the stock one to that nipple, bypassing the purge solenoid. When I did that it idles at 2500 RPM, 1K less than previous.
I would appreciate any help troubleshooting this problem. Thank You
when I start the car it idled at 3500 RPM. The mani has a purge solenoid which I was told I did not need and to disconeect it from the mani nipple and plug one of the lines from the stock one to that nipple, bypassing the purge solenoid. When I did that it idles at 2500 RPM, 1K less than previous.
I would appreciate any help troubleshooting this problem. Thank You
You need to check for vacuum leaks. Double check all of the vacuum hoses, and also the vacuum ports/nipples (is one disconnected/open?). If those things check out fine, take a look at the gaskets. Intake Manifold gasket, Throttle body gasket, and IACV gasket. Once you're %100 sure that they are okay, then lower your idle speed by adjusting the idle screw, which is located on top of the T/B.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
I zipped tied the vacuum lines i was not using, I will make sure they are sealed well. The mani gasket is new and it is on tight, the same for the TB and IACV. Right from the start I tried adjusting the idle crew but when I take it off the throttle cable bracket/spring does not move at all it is at the lowest it will go.
I will re-check all of these today, I will zip tie all vacuum lines to the nipples.
What can I use to check for leaks?
if it was air I could put something on the edges and check for bubbles, but it is a lot harder with vacuum.
I will re-check all of these today, I will zip tie all vacuum lines to the nipples.
What can I use to check for leaks?
if it was air I could put something on the edges and check for bubbles, but it is a lot harder with vacuum.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Renegade »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I zipped tied the vacuum lines i was not using, I will make sure they are sealed well. The mani gasket is new and it is on tight, the same for the TB and IACV. Right from the start I tried adjusting the idle crew but when I take it off the throttle cable bracket/spring does not move at all it is at the lowest it will go.
I will re-check all of these today, I will zip tie all vacuum lines to the nipples.
What can I use to check for leaks?
if it was air I could put something on the edges and check for bubbles, but it is a lot harder with vacuum.</TD></TR></TABLE>
- vaccuum lines would be #1 to recheck
- have you bled your cooling system? if not and if you still have air in your cooling system sometimes (varies) it can affect the engine's idle; usually if you have air in your cooling system, the needle would go to "H" rather quickly when letting the car idle for a while.
- check to see if you put any gaskets on the wrong way, such as the TB gasket.
- make sure you have the MAP sensor vacuum line hooked up correctly on the TB (should be going to the orange spout/pipe near the idle adjustment screw and not the charcoal canister pipe)
are you getting any check engine lights?
I will re-check all of these today, I will zip tie all vacuum lines to the nipples.
What can I use to check for leaks?
if it was air I could put something on the edges and check for bubbles, but it is a lot harder with vacuum.</TD></TR></TABLE>
- vaccuum lines would be #1 to recheck
- have you bled your cooling system? if not and if you still have air in your cooling system sometimes (varies) it can affect the engine's idle; usually if you have air in your cooling system, the needle would go to "H" rather quickly when letting the car idle for a while.
- check to see if you put any gaskets on the wrong way, such as the TB gasket.
- make sure you have the MAP sensor vacuum line hooked up correctly on the TB (should be going to the orange spout/pipe near the idle adjustment screw and not the charcoal canister pipe)
are you getting any check engine lights?
the best way to check for leaks like that would be to spray some starting fluid around the gaskets and vacuum lines. If there are any leaks you'll hear the motor rev a little bit. My CRX did the exact samething until I switch 2 lines around on the MAP
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thanks for the responses, I will try these tomorrow, I just got out of class and I can't mess with it now, I will wake people up.
I'll post what I find.
Redlineracer -- do you which line you switched?
thanks
I'll post what I find.
Redlineracer -- do you which line you switched?
thanks
You know what it wasn't a line switch that I did. The car was idling that high on me because I had a Y-fitting that was clogged. I unclogged the fitting and the car ran fine after that.
I thought this was interesting.
this is a JDM tag being sold on ebay, it has almos the same vacuum line routing on your Z6 mani.
actually maybe not
One of the lines from the purge sol goes directly to the FPR and the map sensor to the canister
this is a JDM tag being sold on ebay, it has almos the same vacuum line routing on your Z6 mani.
actually maybe not
One of the lines from the purge sol goes directly to the FPR and the map sensor to the canister
Update -
I ended up putting in the A6 mani back on. I think the map sensor on the Z6mani may be bad. I will try again later with a different mani and sensors. It starts up but putters, I think it is a timing issue.
I ended up putting in the A6 mani back on. I think the map sensor on the Z6mani may be bad. I will try again later with a different mani and sensors. It starts up but putters, I think it is a timing issue.
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