Ok we finally finished the wiring last night and put the rest of the car back together.

On the 1st attempt to start the car, we sprayed some fuel out of the rail. (bolt wasn't tight enough )

Attempt #2 the car wouldn't turn over and it threw code # 4 CKP sensor. We swapped the 2 white wires on the distributor.

Attempt #3 we had a spark plug out of the car to check to see if we were getting spark. we got a spark and it felt like the car almost turned over on 3 cylinders. so we reinstalled the spark plug and tried to fire it up again. Nothing. Now when we check the ecu code all we get is a solid check engine light.

Attempt #4 we go back and check for spark again. Nothing. Still a solid check engine light. We switched the wires back to the way we had them the 1st time. Nothing. Still the solid check engine light

I'm at a loss.

any ideas?

 

*bump*

 

What ECU are you running? Are you sure the distributor is alright? is the car actually turning over without spark? have you reset the ecu? Did you flood the motor? is the timing right? Are the plug wires in the right firing order? Is the timing belt on right? is the crank turning and not just the pulley?

Sorry man I'm just trying to get a few things rolling in your head that might spark something for you to look for.

 

Hmm, does the CEL come on at all?

Make sure the plug wires go on the following order on the distributor:

3 4
1 2

If you are getting no spark, then best thing to do is check ALL of your wires using a digital multimeter following from the dizzy plug.

Use this diagram to verify your connections since you have converted from OBD0 > OBD1:

http://www.boosted.org/obd0_to_1.php

I'd also recommend verifying timing on the motor making sure everything is at TDC, and do a compression check to make sure compression within the motor is good.

Check spark plugs as well and make sure the motor is not flooded with fuel.

Keep us posted.

 

You can't flood a b18c1 engine.

 

wanna make a bet?

 

Id love to see how you flooded one. I poored gas straight into the combustion chambers of a f22 the put the plugs in and fired it up. I accidentally poored way to much fuel in also. It was kinda funny.

 

Yeah the CEL now stays on when we flip the switch for the codes. We'll do a compression test next. Thanks for that link man I'm gonna go through and check each wire individually with that.

We do smell alittle gas when we pull a spark plug to check for spark, but i don't think we're flooding it. And I guess we'll have to check the timing as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redlineracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wanna make a bet? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea, I'd love to bet. Engines that can be flooded are those old *** ford's, chevy's and other **** that use carburators. Do you know what a carburator is? Our cars are fuel injected and have no carburator. There is no such this as flooding our engines.

 

just because the car is fuel injected does not mean it can't be flooded. You ever seen a fuel injected motor that uses peak and hold injectors instead of pulsed short out and stay wide open during deceleration with the TB butterfly closed and the motor shut down because there was too much gas to ignite. That is only one way of flooding a fuel injected motor. Trust me if it can be done, I have seen it and a customer will always prove you wrong if you think it can't be done. Nothing is impossible.

 

back the the problem

the ecu in the car will show code 0 with all connectors hooked up.
if i unplug the IAT the car will only show code 10 not code 10 and 0.
if the ecu was bad wouldn't it only display the code of 0 regardless of the IAT being unpluged?

(i'm at work thinking, when i get home i'm going to try all the ideas posted so far)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redlineracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just because the car is fuel injected does not mean it can't be flooded. You ever seen a fuel injected motor that uses peak and hold injectors instead of pulsed short out and stay wide open during deceleration with the TB butterfly closed and the motor shut down because there was too much gas to ignite. That is only one way of flooding a fuel injected motor. Trust me if it can be done, I have seen it and a customer will always prove you wrong if you think it can't be done. Nothing is impossible.</TD></TR></TABLE>

We aren't talking about a car with peak and hold injectors. We are talking about a b18c1. ALSO, the car wasn't running in the first place, so the engine can't be flooded.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redlineracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just because the car is fuel injected does not mean it can't be flooded. You ever seen a fuel injected motor that uses peak and hold injectors instead of pulsed short out and stay wide open during deceleration with the TB butterfly closed and the motor shut down because there was too much gas to ignite. That is only one way of flooding a fuel injected motor. Trust me if it can be done, I have seen it and a customer will always prove you wrong if you think it can't be done. Nothing is impossible.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i m with you man...i've seen it done before. I was hella frustrated with my friends car.

 

So mcdade what'd you find out?

 

working on checking the wiring out right now, i will post when i find something

 

I flooded my b16 when I started it for the first time. 800cc injectors, the car started really rough and then just died. Took out a bunch of fuel in the hondata, burnt a new chip, took out the spark plugs that were straight black and reeked of fuel, threw them away, dropped in some new plugs and it was fine.

 

it can be your dizzy most likely wired wrong or defective dizzy.

code 4 will cause your car to start but it will rev limit the bitch to 3.5. the two white wires WILL CAUSE UR car not to start if not going to right place!!!

make sure all the wires are going to the right place on the dizzy and the PLUGS.

if the light stays one it means you have no ENGINE CODES if you wired a switch turn it on and it should start to blink if their is any codes.

 

well we just rewired the dizzy, all the wires are now correct.
still no spark

i've checked all the fuses and relays in the car

the only sensor the ecu will respond to is the IAT.

i can unplug anything in the engine bay (except the iat) and the ecu will not throw a code.

i'm getting frustrated
any ideas on this?
anyone in the philly pa area, with an obd1 acura/honda that i can test my ecu on?

 

in the helms manual it asks you to look for resistance between the 2 terminals on the IAT. If you get resistance, check voltage between the red/yell wire and use body for ground. if you get 5v measure voltage between red/yel wire and grn/blu wire if you get 5v replace the ecu with a good ecu.

Let me know if you don't get 5v anywhere you;re supposed to or if you don't get resistance between the two terminals on the IAT replace it and see what happens.

Remember I'm only try to give you some more ideas. without actually being there I don't know what else to tell you so I'm reading the troubleshooting flowchart out of a helms for the IAT sensor.

 

Thanks man, we'll definitly try it when we get some time. I know its hard to diagnose without actually seeing the car, but believe me, we appreciate all the suggestions everyone has.

-JasterM5

***oops just realized i was signed in under McDade***