re: post skunk2 intake manifold install idle probs / 94 gsr

big thanks
to everyone who helped.
it was really very simple, i just needed to look at the damn thing instead of whining and wringing my hands. because of ongoing, intermittent tb probs that cause somewhat similar symptoms, i just assumed that was it.
vacuum leak
the vacuum line that runs from the top of the throttle body near the map sensor had snapped off where it connects to the evaporative emission (evap) purge control diaphragm valve on top of the evap control canister. this is kinda hard to see as it's below the intake tuning and below the top diaphragm connection. there are three connections on the top of the canister. the one closes to the firewall leads to evap two way valve which ends up at the gas tank. the top connection goes to the evap purge control solenoid valve which is the thing that makes you scratch your head because it does not mount onto the skunk2 intake manifold (oversight?). this ends up going into the intake manifold. i'll leave off all the iab related info. so anyway, now i need a new evap control canister. hoping the dealer doesn't charge $50 or something for 50¢ worth of plastic...

-g

 

you've got to be fkkking kidding!!!!

dealer says $197.25 for what they call the "charcoal canister."
not in stock, not that that matters...
he suggested junkyard: hondas only or honda heaven in santa clara or hap in sactown.
after i get some other prices i am going to have to look again at somehow repairing mine. it's a very small plastic tube that broke off so i would have to be very careful with the glue and find one that will hold up to gas, oil, dirt and drag racing...

 

a&h motorsport says $148.85

 

research indicates that many with bikes in ca are removing much of the evap control stuff for weight savings and to fit on certain exhausts. unfortunately i'm facing a smog inspection in the next three months and i also don't want my parked car to reek of gas or throw a code 90.

 

what problems would one have if you took off the evap control stuff?? Does the ecu care about this? what would you remove and what vacuum lines would you have to plug off for things to work properly. Are there really any advantages to doing this?

 

here's what i know from today's research:
you wouldn't pass smog
parked car will reek of gas - i smelled this in the engine bay last night after driving only 30 seconds
i also learned today that a clogged/defective canister can actually hurt performance
you could cap off certain vacuum lines, join others and disconnect this or that to achv a vacuum but i'm not sure you'd be code free, maybe depends on what you did with the things that are wired like the evap purge control solenoid valve.
advantages seem doubtful, but dunno - probably in the "not worth it" category (or worse).

 

Sucks about your evap tank man. By the way, the evap does have a connection point on the top front of the Skunk2 manifold on the side closest to cylinder 1. It's just mis-sized for the GSR evap hosing (smaller than the stock hose connector size).

 

thanks. just starting to calm down ($200 bucks?!?! for that?!?!). uh oh.

anyway, yeah i'm talking about a mounting point for the evap purge control solenoid valve itself, not the tubing. mine is just zip-tied to bracket that holds the throttle cable (onto the firewall).

yeah it sucks. if i wasn't facing smog i'd probably just ghetto rig it somehow.

(the train sucks!!! extra $1 "service charge" for not buying a ticket out of a machine at the station now uh oh.)

 

I'm not sure if you've tracked down the canister yet, but I've always had great luck after putting a note in the classifieds for that kind of thing. I'm sure there are more than one of them just sitting around in somebody's garage.

 

thanks, but i think i'm too impatient. will try repair tonight. open to any and all glue suggestions...

 

I broke the same part I believe but the one I broke is the other end the one on top of the intake mani. I just sanded the little tube part down smooth on both side of the breaks and used JB weld very percicly and it has held like a dream I slid the vacuum hose right back on with out it breaking again... So i would suggest JB weld its good stufff. I tried epoxy and heavy dudty super glue and no good....


[Modified by GS-Racer01, 6:44 PM 8/15/2001]

 

i broke this tiny plastic tube off of the evap canister that accepts the vacuum hose coming from the top of the tb. from your description i think we broke different things or else you broke the one above the one i broke. i couldn't afford five minute epoxy so i had to settle for "4-6 minute epoxy." i'm forcing myself to wait the full 16 hours for it to fully cure. i will try jb weld if i have to try again. thanks.

 

well I broke the same part, but the one I broke is the plasic tube part of the sensor that is on top of the intake manifold where the vacuum line attaches it to some sort of sensor, and then the vacumm line runs to the evap can.. Sorry the desctiption above wasnt real great yeah I know exactly what part your talking about... But yeah if the epoxy doesnt work try the JB weld... Like I say mine is still holding good and its been three or four months.. I could of just payed $50 for the whole sensor but I figured I would try to glue it first and what do ya know its still holding great...