well I'm kinda bummed that after my entire install, I finally have a problem.

*Quick specs:
B16, stock bottom end
Port/Polished & milled .020, 2-layer headgasket
Skunk2 Stage 2 Cams, Valvetrain, and every single seal on the head replaced, and new timing belt sensioner and water pump

& PE Timing belt (yes, for a b16 ) I know since these cams do not have a large primary lobe, and i've never heard of the t-belt having problems on these or similair jun III cams.............I did it anyway. overkill is kinda the theme for my engine

Ever since install we kinda thought the belt needed to be tensioned more, and I've seen posted it's not as tense as the OEM.....

The motor has 1,500 miles on it. I was just doing a valve adjustment today because I am scheduled to for tuning on thursday, and took a closer look at the belt.
The actual blue belt is pretty dark, it has dark lash marks where for all the cam gear positions, I don't know if this is or is not normal.
The teeth, on the side facing the fender, NOT the engine, are showing signs of wear.

What could have caused this ? What aspect of install error could cause the teeth to wear so damn quickly? I can't think of what I've screwed up, any help always appreciated.

 

Well, I just bought one recently and was supposed to put this on this weekend, but lack of time. However, funny, since then, I have read a few on here in the past week thats giving me to think about it, hell here's a link I just ran into today.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=588649

 

my belt is also showing some signs of wear and i just installed it like a week ago. Th trhreads on the side of the belt seem to be coming apart.
i applied some epoxy adhesive on those edges just to be sake...but for $150 dollars......... ****!

 

geez. as for install, when putting the head back on and the t-belt and everything around it, that is one thing i was having problems with (tension) but a fellow h-t'er and engine builder/racer helped me out, and I can't really cast doubt on the install.

So these belts are crap ? My oem belt had no signs of wear @ 50,000.00 miles, and this thing is gone @ 1,500.00 miles? What sucks the most is I don't even have the $$$ anymore to buy a new oem belt, and def. don't have the time

 

The OE timing belt is fine. It also has kevlar (look for the orangy fiber visible on the side).

Just make sure you have tension on the front side of the motor, on top of the gears, and between the intake gear and water pump and you should be fine.

Big primary lobes on Toda's and/or high spring pressure makes the the top and back side of the belt loose even though the front side is tight.

 

hm, I compared the tension with my friends OEM (belt, engine) and it's not as loose as I thought, actually about the same. on both sides,

and i swapped the valve cover to a cut one, and have the middle timing belt cover off.....so i can check the tension on all of these spots, and it's fine.

 

so even with toda b's and up, OEM is better or as good as the toda belt or PE belt?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The OE timing belt is fine. It also has kevlar (look for the orangy fiber visible on the side).

Just make sure you have tension on the front side of the motor, on top of the gears, and between the intake gear and water pump and you should be fine.

Big primary lobes on Toda's and/or high spring pressure makes the the top and back side of the belt loose even though the front side is tight. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I've noticed with a few different PE belts that they seem to stretch alot easier than OEM. Can't really reuse them...

You try prying up on Tensioner?

Suprdave

 

PE has like 3 different sizes of B-Series timing belts. B16A, B18C, and B20
http://www.power-enterprise.net

 

Really? Tell their distributor....
http://www.power-enterprise.net

 

I got one, new, never installed.......for sale if anyone wants one?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so even with toda b's and up, OEM is better or as good as the toda belt or PE belt?

</TD></TR></TABLE>


Nope, PE is 6x stronger than oem. Those marks are normal. They just get there b/c of the lower guide. No problems here and I've been running this belt with much more than stock tension for several thousand miles on spec b's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Nope, PE is 6x stronger than oem. Those marks are normal. They just get there b/c of the lower guide. No problems here and I've been running this belt with much more than stock tension for several thousand miles on spec b's. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, the PE belts are only 4x stronger than OEM.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by importbeat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Actually, the PE belts are only 4x stronger than OEM. </TD></TR></TABLE>

No way, its 5.749473x stronger than OEM.