Official Alarm Install On 4th Gens
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Posts: 1,391
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Official Alarm Install On 4th Gens
Aight, well here it goes guys, feel free to add to it, give any useful information, all that good stuff. On preludes, most hondas, you're only gonna need 6 of the wires on the harness apart from the lock and unlock wires, the lock/unlock wires were blue and green on mine, they're thin little wires, you'll need the lock/unlock wires, door trigger, ground, 12v, ignition, siren, and parking lights. The tools you'll need are, crimpers, crimp caps, electrical tape, phillips head screw driver, drill and self tapping screws (for mounting siren), soldering iron and solder and a test light handy would be good just incase you have more than one of the same color wire in the harness you find.
To start out with you'll need to take 4 phillips head screws out of your underbezzle or kneeguard whichever you call it.... after you take that off you'll need to take that metal plate out, i think they're 8mm's, maybe 10's, can't remember, once you take these 2 things out... your air duct needs to come out, it should just slide right out with no problems
Now you're ready to start working, i started with door trigger first.
This is what the harness looks like, sorry about the quality, don't have a digital camera, it's a cam recorder with camera built in, parents won't swing for one .
Anywho, the harness is just kinda hanging around, it looks like there are two sets of 13 wires or so going into one big harness, if you're sitting on the ground outside the car with just your head in, the harness should be DIRECTLY next to your head, it's very easy to see, the wire you want for your door trigger is going to be
so whatever alarm you have, whatever color you have, for me with a DEI alarm, more specifically a viper, i have GREEN as the door trigger, the factory color for door trigger is Black/White Stripe, I used t-taps for this connection.
Next we'll do parking lights, they're optional, but i like to have them, so here we go, the factory color for the parking lights is gonna be Red/Blue stripe, you'll be able to catch this right near the fuse box, here's my pic, once again i used a t-tap
Now we have 12 volt constant and Ignition we need to grab, these will require some really good connections, i soldered mine and wrapped electrical tape around them. You're gonna grab both of these wires in the "ignition harness." It's a pretty big harness, it should be located right above where your air duct was, the 2 wires you're gonna grab are very thick, too thick to t-tap, here's the pic of the where the wires were,
sorry about this pic, i took it when i had the metal piece in and the air duct in. The wire for the 12 Volt is going to be White, once again these wires are very thick, a lot thicker than the other wires, and the wire for Ignition is Black/Yellow stripe. On the Viper alarms these colors are 12v-Red, Ign-Yellow
Now we have lock/unlock... these wires arent generally located on the harness, they're on a seperate harness that plugs into the brain of the alarm. Mine were Blue and Green, the factory colors are gonna be Black/White stripe, and Black/Red Stripe. Sorry about this one, but i cant remember which is lock and which is unlock , it's not a big deal though, once you get everything in working order, when you hit the arm key on the keypad and it unlocks you know you gotta switch it, lol. But here's the pic of the harness I caught these 2 from. this harness is just kinda chillin, lol, it's not hooked to anything, mine was just sort of hanging above my clutch.
Now you just have to ground the alarm and mount your siren, for your siren, just extend your wire on your alarm harness and run it through the firewall into the engine bay and find a suitable home for it, as far as grounding it, i grounded it to that metal piece we took out. Now button your lude back up and program your remotes (you actually need to read the manual for that one).
Hope this helps as many people as possible. PM me with any questions and feel free to add any helpful hints.
NOTE TO ALL: If you're car blows up do to you not using a test light and grabbing the wrong wires at the wrong places, it's not my fault
Also, if you feel it's necessary, unhook your battery to ensure yourself of no shorts.
Modified by PetroGuyX at 4:52 PM 8/6/2003
To start out with you'll need to take 4 phillips head screws out of your underbezzle or kneeguard whichever you call it.... after you take that off you'll need to take that metal plate out, i think they're 8mm's, maybe 10's, can't remember, once you take these 2 things out... your air duct needs to come out, it should just slide right out with no problems
Now you're ready to start working, i started with door trigger first.
This is what the harness looks like, sorry about the quality, don't have a digital camera, it's a cam recorder with camera built in, parents won't swing for one .
Anywho, the harness is just kinda hanging around, it looks like there are two sets of 13 wires or so going into one big harness, if you're sitting on the ground outside the car with just your head in, the harness should be DIRECTLY next to your head, it's very easy to see, the wire you want for your door trigger is going to be
so whatever alarm you have, whatever color you have, for me with a DEI alarm, more specifically a viper, i have GREEN as the door trigger, the factory color for door trigger is Black/White Stripe, I used t-taps for this connection.
Next we'll do parking lights, they're optional, but i like to have them, so here we go, the factory color for the parking lights is gonna be Red/Blue stripe, you'll be able to catch this right near the fuse box, here's my pic, once again i used a t-tap
Now we have 12 volt constant and Ignition we need to grab, these will require some really good connections, i soldered mine and wrapped electrical tape around them. You're gonna grab both of these wires in the "ignition harness." It's a pretty big harness, it should be located right above where your air duct was, the 2 wires you're gonna grab are very thick, too thick to t-tap, here's the pic of the where the wires were,
sorry about this pic, i took it when i had the metal piece in and the air duct in. The wire for the 12 Volt is going to be White, once again these wires are very thick, a lot thicker than the other wires, and the wire for Ignition is Black/Yellow stripe. On the Viper alarms these colors are 12v-Red, Ign-Yellow
Now we have lock/unlock... these wires arent generally located on the harness, they're on a seperate harness that plugs into the brain of the alarm. Mine were Blue and Green, the factory colors are gonna be Black/White stripe, and Black/Red Stripe. Sorry about this one, but i cant remember which is lock and which is unlock , it's not a big deal though, once you get everything in working order, when you hit the arm key on the keypad and it unlocks you know you gotta switch it, lol. But here's the pic of the harness I caught these 2 from. this harness is just kinda chillin, lol, it's not hooked to anything, mine was just sort of hanging above my clutch.
Now you just have to ground the alarm and mount your siren, for your siren, just extend your wire on your alarm harness and run it through the firewall into the engine bay and find a suitable home for it, as far as grounding it, i grounded it to that metal piece we took out. Now button your lude back up and program your remotes (you actually need to read the manual for that one).
Hope this helps as many people as possible. PM me with any questions and feel free to add any helpful hints.
NOTE TO ALL: If you're car blows up do to you not using a test light and grabbing the wrong wires at the wrong places, it's not my fault
Also, if you feel it's necessary, unhook your battery to ensure yourself of no shorts.
Modified by PetroGuyX at 4:52 PM 8/6/2003
#5
Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Rochster, NY, Grubby Nettles
Posts: 3,262
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (PetroGuyX)
[englishman]ahem..i DO believe the correct term is traitor [/englishman] but yeah. good call on that. ophdaheezy.. you wont be oph any heezies w/o your lude. so fix it. and use this damn good writeup.
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Posts: 1,391
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (NatakuBlitz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NatakuBlitz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ophdaheezy.. you wont be oph any heezies w/o your lude. so fix it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
hahahahahahahahahahaha, no heezies be off for you
hahahahahahahahahahaha, no heezies be off for you
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: State College, PA, 16865
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (PetroGuyX)
two additions to this. Personally I will only solder. This provides both a better, more secure connection, plus a more factory look than a tap. #2, MAKE SURE YOU TAPE ALL YOUR WIRES. most alarms use the same color codes, blue unlock, green lock, red power, black ground, brown siren output, etc etc. It's not cool to leave these wires visable. It aids the theif big time. Cut the wires you don't need from the harness, place the alarm where you are going to install it, and then route all the wires to where you're going to connect them. Find which ones run to the same general area and tape them up with a buttload of electrical tape. This helps to camo your wires and makes it also harder to trace back to where the brain is. It's also best to pick a sort of unorthodox/hard to access area to place the brain. This can also help slow the theif.
As a last pointer, use two sirens. A normal one for under the hood, in an area that isn't easy to get to with the hood closed. For the second one, use a mini-peizo siren installed in the car. When the alarm goes off, those mini's make a god-awful loud high-pitched sound. It makes being in the car suck VERY VERY bad. Again, this might help slow the guy down or make him decide to bail. Just do any little thing that makes it all look like nothing is there, this will help slow the person down
As a last pointer, use two sirens. A normal one for under the hood, in an area that isn't easy to get to with the hood closed. For the second one, use a mini-peizo siren installed in the car. When the alarm goes off, those mini's make a god-awful loud high-pitched sound. It makes being in the car suck VERY VERY bad. Again, this might help slow the guy down or make him decide to bail. Just do any little thing that makes it all look like nothing is there, this will help slow the person down
Trending Topics
#9
Honda-Tech Gold Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Orange County, Ca, USA
Posts: 5,487
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Re: (rjr162)
Solder's cool but please use 3M electrical tape. The cheap **** comes loose when it gets hot.
Use a DEI 515R Back Up siren under the hood. Cut it, disconnect the alarm brain, or cut the battery, and it'll still go off.
Wrap the FailSafe starter kill relay really well and install it next to the starter with all the wires taped black. So that thieves won't find it by looking under your dash.
Use yellow split loom on ignition and starter wire with yellow 3M electrical tape. Thieves might think its SRS wiring and won't mess with it.
Go to a stereo shop and ask for a broken old alarm system and mount it loosely under the dash with the wires ran up high and zip tied tight. When they disconnect it and it doesn't do ****, they might get discouraged.
Although this might be illegal in your area... go and buy the Hella air horn and connect it, using a relay, to your instant trigger output.
My two pennies.
Use a DEI 515R Back Up siren under the hood. Cut it, disconnect the alarm brain, or cut the battery, and it'll still go off.
Wrap the FailSafe starter kill relay really well and install it next to the starter with all the wires taped black. So that thieves won't find it by looking under your dash.
Use yellow split loom on ignition and starter wire with yellow 3M electrical tape. Thieves might think its SRS wiring and won't mess with it.
Go to a stereo shop and ask for a broken old alarm system and mount it loosely under the dash with the wires ran up high and zip tied tight. When they disconnect it and it doesn't do ****, they might get discouraged.
Although this might be illegal in your area... go and buy the Hella air horn and connect it, using a relay, to your instant trigger output.
My two pennies.
#10
Re: (ScareyH22A)
Okay I just want to add one thing.
This is Very Important! Make sure you know which wires are for the SRS!! You do not want to accidentally cut or connect to those. Doing so could deploy the airbags and trust me nothing hurts like one of those! You try taking a hit from one of those to the sac... Trust me no fun at all!! Then it's like the car is filled with Tear gas or some **** so your eyes start burning. (sorry little rant)
BTW - Good Write up! Thanks! I might change some stuff on mine or finally connect the door locks
This is Very Important! Make sure you know which wires are for the SRS!! You do not want to accidentally cut or connect to those. Doing so could deploy the airbags and trust me nothing hurts like one of those! You try taking a hit from one of those to the sac... Trust me no fun at all!! Then it's like the car is filled with Tear gas or some **** so your eyes start burning. (sorry little rant)
BTW - Good Write up! Thanks! I might change some stuff on mine or finally connect the door locks
#12
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Posts: 1,391
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (NatakuBlitz)
yea, there does seem to be some stickiness to this thread, but yea, that's why you really should have a test light around when you're doing an alarm install, it'll save you from a few headaches if you connect a wrong wire
#15
Re: Official Alarm Install On 4th Gens (PetroGuyX)
Wow, I am very impressed by your write-up Mike! You seem like a professional, therefore you have a career ahead of you! Thanks so much for this. I may need to use it sometime down the road!
#18
Re: (PetroGuyX)
unless someone else knows I can check what wire I used. I know I did the wrong one because it still turns over but it won't start...
I was lazy and had to finish so I could get my insurance inspection with a functional alarm. It won't start so I just left it. I do plan to redo it so it won't even turn over.
I was lazy and had to finish so I could get my insurance inspection with a functional alarm. It won't start so I just left it. I do plan to redo it so it won't even turn over.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
noworldorder
Audio / Security / Video
4
02-28-2007 06:43 PM
dvp95
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
7
08-23-2002 04:39 PM