Here is the news. Tuesday after the dyno session I was driving home, Car shut off and lost power. I had been driving for around 1 hr constant or so. There was no power into the ecu. Culprit = blown FI E/M fuse under the hood. 15A fuse in the #6 location. This is on a 2000 civic BTW.

I checked the main relay. Switched to a known good working main relay. Put in a new hondata prepped ecu. New hondata. Took fuel pump out of main relay and hooked it to a seperate relay. I still used the fuel pump signal wire from the main relay.

Here is what goes on. When the main relay is not hooked up...fuse will not blow. With ecu not hooked up and main relay hooked up....fuse will blow.

Here is the pita thing....this is intermitent. Sometimes disconnecting the ecu and main relay...the car will not blow this fuse...let me drive it about 20 feet and blow the fuse again. I checked continuity on the fuel pump wire, ICM, starter signal, IGP1 and IGP2. I am burnt out. 25 dollars in fuses. Stupid car. Looks like I am going to miss the H-T florida meet. Any help would be awesome.

Jason

 

check your fuel filter, sometimes a clogged filter can overwork the pump.

 

Its blowing the fuse with the ecu and fuel pump disconnected. Just the main relay.

 

boing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blown90hatcH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its blowing the fuse with the ecu and fuel pump disconnected. Just the main relay.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had the same problem about a month ago. Turns out that my OBD-2 to OBD-1 harness, a couple of the wires came off and were grounding out. Check your harness real good and make sure you have no bare wires in there grounding out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted99Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I had the same problem about a month ago. Turns out that my OBD-2 to OBD-1 harness, a couple of the wires came off and were grounding out. Check your harness real good and make sure you have no bare wires in there grounding out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have like 6 of my harnesses in stock. Tried them in my car and others cars.

On a side note, I manually touched IGP1 and PG1 together to check and see if it is grounding and it blew the same fuse. So somewhere there is a power wire grounding.

Jason

 

Fuse 44 "FI E/M" (15A) has got nothing to do with the fuel pump, that is taken care of by Fuse 13 "Fuel Pump" (15A).

If you remove the FI E/M fuse and ECU, check for a short to ground on IGP1 (B1), IGP2 (B9), INJ1-4 (B11, B3, B4, B5) and the IACV (B23). Those are the only components that are powered by that fuse.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fuse 44 "FI E/M" (15A) has got nothing to do with the fuel pump, that is taken care of by Fuse 13 "Fuel Pump" (15A).

If you remove the FI E/M fuse and ECU, check for a short to ground on IGP1 (B1), IGP2 (B9), INJ1-4 (B11, B3, B4, B5) and the IACV (B23). Those are the only components that are powered by that fuse.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is that while leaving the main relay hooked up? Just checking for continuity on ground right? Key off.

Jason

 

Yes, leave the Main Relay in. However, disconnect the (+) battery terminal for good measure.

And your checking to see if one of those wire has continuity to ground.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted99Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I had the same problem about a month ago. Turns out that my OBD-2 to OBD-1 harness, a couple of the wires came off and were grounding out. Check your harness real good and make sure you have no bare wires in there grounding out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Also...was your problem intermitent?

 

Thanks again man.

 

Bump for more info!

 

Bump. At least you are lucky enough to blow fuses. I have blown 2 Ecus through the capacitor in the span of 6 months. Normal driving, out of no where..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fuse 44 "FI E/M" (15A) has got nothing to do with the fuel pump, that is taken care of by Fuse 13 "Fuel Pump" (15A).

If you remove the FI E/M fuse and ECU, check for a short to ground on IGP1 (B1), IGP2 (B9), INJ1-4 (B11, B3, B4, B5) and the IACV (B23). Those are the only components that are powered by that fuse.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup... If you spliced for injectors, make sure you dont have a bad wire... Check your harness behind the fuse panel... maybe a mouse or something chewed through a wire...

 

Jas, i think thats the same fuse that was popping wit that harness we sent back last week But ours was popping right on start up everytime in every car we tried it in ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr206 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jas, i think thats the same fuse that was popping wit that harness we sent back last week But ours was popping right on start up everytime in every car we tried it in ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That was the IG 40a I thought.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ScrapinSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yup... If you spliced for injectors, make sure you dont have a bad wire... Check your harness behind the fuse panel... maybe a mouse or something chewed through a wire... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I am going to check the resistor box that I spliced into as well to make sure nothing is grounding out.

Thanks

 

na it was the same fuse, and this is on fairly stock motors only mods weer intake, exhuast, and that harness with Skunk 2 ecu. my old one works fine in evey car, but that one was blowing the same fuse on every car keeping the cars from starting. Not saying yours is the same issue, but deff smoething to think about.

 

Welll....it isnt the harness. I checked for continuity on ground with the injectors, IACV and IGP1 and IGP2. I had no grounds on checking them at all. Also, this time...the car cranked. I will drive it again to see if it blows on monday. Stupid car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you remove the FI E/M fuse and ECU, check for a short to ground on IGP1 (B1), IGP2 (B9), INJ1-4 (B11, B3, B4, B5) and the IACV (B23). Those are the only components that are powered by that fuse.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nothing. Everything was perfect...but the fuse didnt blow. When the fuse does blow, I will check them again.

 

Like I had mentioned over the PM, get someone else in there to wiggle **** around while your checking. Otherwise, have that meter handy when the fuse blows again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like I had mentioned over the PM, get someone else in there to wiggle **** around while your checking. Otherwise, have that meter handy when the fuse blows again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I am starting to think it may lie with the resistor box or wiring there. Nothing gets moved around the ecu/harness area. But the resistor box I have is just something that might move around.

 

***UPdate***

Car is also throwing code 16 as well. I think I may have a short in the injector resistor box?

 

Will check the resistor box on monday...any other suggestions.

 

sounds like you're on to it. check for shorts!