This seems to be a hot topic for the H22 owners out there. Here is a step by
step "how to" conversion to the more reliable H23 (manual) style of tensioner. The H22a block used, is obviously a "mock-up", so don't be critical of the missing pieces. This conversion can be done in the car, but in this case it was done out of the car for illustration purposes only.

http://www.collectiveracing.ne...c=9.0


Modified by 2point6 at 9:06 AM 2/17/2008

 

BTW, you guys here at HT ar the first to see this. I don't even have it up on my site yet... How's that for love? Hope you guys can use this info. If you like this type of write up, give me a shout at my site. Stop in and check it out if you like.

 

Thanks for the write up bro.

I will call Honda tomorrow and get prices on those parts for sure, unless someone will beat me too it.

I thought there would have been a lot more parts for this install, but seems easy. Too bad I already bought another auto tensioner, but oh well.

 

What about the bracket that goes where the auto ten, goes. It bolts right into the 2 places the Auto one does. its for the chance that you don't lose tension one the timing belt. I don't see it on the block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fly1865 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about the bracket that goes where the auto ten, goes. It bolts right into the 2 places the Auto one does. its for the chance that you don't lose tension one the timing belt. I don't see it on the block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I personally don't use this part, but you can add it as a little extra insurance. With this conversion, there is really little chance the belt will become loose enough, since the belt is a tight fit to put on. If you choses to use the lock, you will have to modifiy it slightly so it will align with the tensioner pulley.


Modified by 2point6 at 9:25 AM 7/2/2003

 

awesome write up

*Bookmark*

 

Updated.

 

Bad *** write up, but I still dont see how the manual tensioner is less likley to fail than the auto.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junglerunna02 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bad *** write up, but I still dont see how the manual tensioner is less likley to fail than the auto. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The auto tensioner is hydraulicly pressed up on the tensioner which tensions it. And the tension mainly relies on constant hydraulic pressure.

It's not really required, just a lot more insurance when you have aftermarket mods such has agressive cams and such which require more stress to turn.

2point6 -- while NOT running the balance shafts at all, is it required to run the balance shaft tensioner pulley?

I would think it's causing a little vibration with no balance shaft belt at all, but would require a shorter bolt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2point6 -- while NOT running the balance shafts at all, is it required to run the balance shaft tensioner pulley?

I would think it's causing a little vibration with no balance shaft belt at all, but would require a shorter bolt.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you are not using the balance shaft belt, you can delete the balance shaft tensioner pulley. Make sure to replace it with a metal spacer so the adjuster nut will still be able to hold it all in place.

 

This thread rocks.

 

yeah i machined the bottom crank pulley out, and also did a sleeve so i didn't need to add the balance shaft pulley, unfortunately, the Alien Autotec balance shaft kit remove the balance shafts, but on the rear one you still have to put the pulley cover (with internal gears) on because two presure holes are opened to allow oilpressure in to lubricate the gears, tapping this is hard because of the are to place them, and also the closeness of the major oil passage for the oilpump, so i simply sealed the balance shaft plug, but kinda pointless since two other oilholes exist and put the cover on.. i would have been nice to remove the added pulley cover so i wouldn't need to have that big peice (extra weight in there) but oh well....

unless you have a miracle cure.. and also did the adapter plate for the euro-r manifold for the h22 AIC, i noticed the civic D series is the same, but the opening is a little smaller, =0)

great write up scott!

-G

 

Excellent writeup

 

UR DA MAN

 

I was wondering if this was financially obtainable for me and from what I can see the total for the Manual tensioner (w/o the extra bracket) comes to a total of $69.11. Which is well with in my means. This is before all taxes and shipping of course since it can be diffrent for everyone. A replacement auto tensiner is 66.55. But if my auto tensioner does go poo then I think I personally would like the added insurance that a $9.69 bolt and bracket add to the manual conversion. Great write-up! The info you have provided will help people for a long time to come. cheers!


Modified by SuperSH at 6:45 PM 6/30/2003

 

EH your missing one CRUTIAL PART !!!!

the 3 peg tripod, that you actually bolt down the tension pulley to, and secure it... it's a peice that goes in where the auto tensioner does.. and you secure teh adjustable pulley it to it, because as in the pictures the only peice putting tension on it is the little spring which in my opinon will not last the startup !!!

PLEASE add that in your writeup.

 

Wow nice write up. I have to do my t-belt/waterpump/balancer belt soon and I bought the parts to do the h23 manual tensioner swap. Is this a DIYer?'

Great pics and write up... It makes much more sense.

BTW, can you use a H22 balancer belt instead or do you have to use a h23 one?


Modified by Keith at 4:29 AM 7/1/2003

 

finally a good write up

 

yah great write up, i wish this was here when i did my swap 8 months ago. It would have gotten rid of a lot of the guess work

 

Great info. I have just a few questins. Do you know the dimensions of the washer, plain 11mm? I mean width and the 2 diameters. If I would know it, I can buy it for a few cents instead of 2 or 3$. Another think is the washers between T-belt and balancer belt pullies (but with a few washers (used as spacers) the H22 pulley can be used correctly). Did you use the original washer that was on the H22 between these pullies?

What "extra lock or bracket" are you talking about? Is there any part number of pic? Or is it some custom work?

So when I tighten the adjusting nut, it tights both the timing belt and balancer belt pullies? In original H22 it tightened only the balancer belt pulley.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HotWheelz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EH your missing one CRUTIAL PART !!!!

the 3 peg tripod, that you actually bolt down the tension pulley to, and secure it... it's a peice that goes in where the auto tensioner does.. and you secure teh adjustable pulley it to it, because as in the pictures the only peice putting tension on it is the little spring which in my opinon will not last the startup !!!

PLEASE add that in your writeup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I honestly delete that part every time I do this conversion. I mentioned it earlier in the thread. I have never seen it used on just about every street or race h22 I have come across that has this conversion already. My veiwpoint is that because of how much tighter the timing belt is after doing this, the part can be deleted without issue.

 

Great right up mang!

 

Do you think some bracket like this?

 

I also don't understand where is used the 14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER. I can't see it in the pictures.

When I use an old H22 balancer belt pulley with its bracket, can i also remove from the buy-list parts 13404-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., BALANCER BELT and 13415-PT0-000 - BRACKET, BALANCER BELT ADJUSTER? If so, the simplied list whould look like this (also without the 14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER mentioned above):

14510-PT0-004 - ADJUSTER COMP., TIMING BELT
14516-PT2-000 - SPRING COMP., TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
90014-P14-A00 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER BASE
90015-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER SPRING
90016-PT0-000 - BOLT, TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
90140-P14-A00 - WASHER, PLAIN (11MM)

Is this correct?

 

damn, great wrtie up

i think we need to create a website dedicated to FREE Prelude tech information