taking tint off????????
my buddy from school just took his off of his civic coupe. he paid a place to do it. for all of the windows it was around 200! i think most of that went to the back window since you cant use a razor blade to scrape it since it will destroy your defroster,
if the tint peeled right off then the film was left on. i still have it on my teg, you need a razor and some tint remover to get it off. and it WILL take you all day.
Here's what I do:
Just using water won't work very well, you want something to lubricate the window while you're using the razor blade to take the film off or else it might scratch. I use a mixture of dish soap and water (not sure about the exact amounts, but mix it in a spray bottle until its at the consistancy where when you spray it on the window it will be fairly soapy, and the soap slowly moves down the window).
For the rear window, you need to be careful if you have defroster lines. If you do, just take your time, work one section at a time. Here are the steps:
1) Spray the section you are going to work on with a lot of the soap/water mix.
2) Carefully scrap the film off with the a razor blade ( I use the replacement blades that you would use in a normal cutter, can find them at hardware stores, usually come in a couple packs)
It's going to be messy, so you're going to want to put down a lot of towels so your car doesnt get soaked with a soapy water mess. Also, have somewhere to discard the film as you scrap it from the window. Finally, use the spray as needed. No need to get a scratch in the nice glass.
Hope this helps.
*REMEMBER: BE CAREFUL AROUND DEFROSTER LINES. DO NOT CUT THEM*
Just using water won't work very well, you want something to lubricate the window while you're using the razor blade to take the film off or else it might scratch. I use a mixture of dish soap and water (not sure about the exact amounts, but mix it in a spray bottle until its at the consistancy where when you spray it on the window it will be fairly soapy, and the soap slowly moves down the window).
For the rear window, you need to be careful if you have defroster lines. If you do, just take your time, work one section at a time. Here are the steps:
1) Spray the section you are going to work on with a lot of the soap/water mix.
2) Carefully scrap the film off with the a razor blade ( I use the replacement blades that you would use in a normal cutter, can find them at hardware stores, usually come in a couple packs)
It's going to be messy, so you're going to want to put down a lot of towels so your car doesnt get soaked with a soapy water mess. Also, have somewhere to discard the film as you scrap it from the window. Finally, use the spray as needed. No need to get a scratch in the nice glass.
Hope this helps.
*REMEMBER: BE CAREFUL AROUND DEFROSTER LINES. DO NOT CUT THEM*
This is my method, and I think it's prolly the fastest.
Get a bottle of amonia.
Spray the windows that you want. SPRAY THEM GOOD. Dont be shy.
Put a plastic back on the back and cover the inside of the window.
Get a blow dryer/heat up and heatup the outside of the window really good. This will break down ALL of the adhesive.
Use a bulnt edge to push some of the tint so you can either grab all of it, or use a razor blade and scrape it. If you have a large section coming up and it's not coming up easily. Spray more amoina down in there and it'll come up easy.
For the back hatch do the same, but use are blunt rubber edge or something (I used the back end of a rubber coated wrench). Heat it up good and lay on the amonia from the inside.
If you do it right you'll be able to pull off the entire thing in one sheet.
Get a bottle of amonia.
Spray the windows that you want. SPRAY THEM GOOD. Dont be shy.
Put a plastic back on the back and cover the inside of the window.
Get a blow dryer/heat up and heatup the outside of the window really good. This will break down ALL of the adhesive.
Use a bulnt edge to push some of the tint so you can either grab all of it, or use a razor blade and scrape it. If you have a large section coming up and it's not coming up easily. Spray more amoina down in there and it'll come up easy.
For the back hatch do the same, but use are blunt rubber edge or something (I used the back end of a rubber coated wrench). Heat it up good and lay on the amonia from the inside.
If you do it right you'll be able to pull off the entire thing in one sheet.
this is what I went off of, and it worked pretty well. My only suggestion for the whole razor blade thing is to spend the 2 bucks on the actuall retractable holder that is normally used to scrape paint off windows and **** when you paint houses. It can be found at any hardware store for cheap.
http://www.tintdude.com/remove.html
http://www.tintdude.com/remove.html
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The AntiRice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is what I went off of, and it worked pretty well. My only suggestion for the whole razor blade thing is to spend the 2 bucks on the actuall retractable holder that is normally used to scrape paint off windows and **** when you paint houses. It can be found at any hardware store for cheap.
http://www.tintdude.com/remove.html</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would recommend against getting the razor holder, just because its a little more difficult to manuever in tight areas... with just the blades you can get into the small spaces easier, but they are a big harder to hold.
http://www.tintdude.com/remove.html</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would recommend against getting the razor holder, just because its a little more difficult to manuever in tight areas... with just the blades you can get into the small spaces easier, but they are a big harder to hold.
don't use a razor. it's too dangerous back there with the lines.. use a plastic razor like a sharp edged putty knife from home depot. i used that for my removal and i was able to glide over the lines with ease and take off the adhesive with amonia.. i learned this plastic putty knife trick from professional tint installers.
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