I've done a lot of research, and I'm trying to decide if I want to get a blockguard or not. I've heard that sleeves can float quite easily without one, and I've also heard that the previous comment is complete BS. I've heard that hotspotting of the sleeves can be an issue when using a blockguard, and I've also heard that that's BS. From what I understand, when there's a problem with sleeves, its usually at the bottom of the sleeve and not up top (where the blcokguard goes).

I'm in the processs of doing a rebuild on my b18c (eagle rods, cp pistons, acl bearings, etc.) I don't have the $$$ to sleeve at this point, and I'm trying to decide if I want to use a blockguard or not.

Is there anyone out there who is running stock sleeves withOUT a blockguard without any problems (~400-450WHP). Or perhaps those who tried it would a BG and had problems due to the lack of a BG?

 

go with Golden Eagle blockguard if you cant afford to sleeve it with golden eagle sleeves. here is some pics of the GE blockguard. 99.00 shipped right now.

 

So... do you recommend the use of a blockguard? Can you give me any insight as to why (or perhaps why I should not run without one)?

 

I believe in them. We had a small crack in the #3 cylinder that without the blockguard wouldve DEFINETLY caused more damage than it did. :D

 

where was the crack.... and what did you attribute it to?

 

Personally, I think that with proper tuning from the get go, you won't need a BG

 

Pound it in nice and hard, and distort those factory sleeves

 

i put on a str, block lasted 1500 miles before 2&3 were egg shaped soo bad it scuff a piston and hurt some rings. blockguards sleeve it or forget it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbodGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i put on a str, block lasted 1500 miles before 2&3 were egg shaped soo bad it scuff a piston and hurt some rings. blockguards sleeve it or forget it</TD></TR></TABLE>

did you just use a mallet and pound it in?? if you did that might be the reason.

if you decide to get a blockguard, make sure the machine shop knows what they are doing. let them weld the blockguard first, then bore hone so it wont deform the cylinders later!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MotorMatrix.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go with Golden Eagle blockguard if you cant afford to sleeve it with golden eagle sleeves. here is some pics of the GE blockguard. 99.00 shipped right now.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

HOLY S$%T!!!!

when did GE srat making block-guards!!!?? i need to get one of those!

 

people have taken stock sleeves to 400WHP.

I personally, violently, GRANADED a D series @ 14PSI where the pistons shot out of the block and damaged everything. Although the block was fucked the sleeves where NOT cracked.

A block gaurd is to protect against detonation.

If you have proper management and proper tuning using 91-94 octane gas then you don't need one.

on the other hand, if you don't ....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by servion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Is there anyone out there who is running stock sleeves without a block guard without any problems (~400-450WHP). Or perhaps those who tried it would a BG and had problems due to the lack of a BG?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If memory serves jinxproof99 was running stock sleeves on his car and made 509 hp to the wheels and ran in the 10's without a block guard. Not saying you should test those limits but it seems with proper management and tuning that a block guard is not necessary.

 

 

i would say its definately good advice to get your block bored after you install a blockgaurd. i had mine installed and it did push the sleeves out of round .003" so i got them bored. but a buddy of mine, who installed his w/engine in the car, has had no problems so far. just make sure to tap it in evenly... i think that was part of the reason mine was out... the machinist didn't tap it in that evenly

 

When you install a blockguard it should SLIP into place. You shouldnt have to tap it in at all. If it doesnt drop in with minimal clearance, then sand it down till it does. Tapping it in is placing the stock sleeves under a compressive stress before the engine is up to full heat. The metal of the sleeves, and the metal of the block guard are different. They expand at different rates. If you have the sleeves in compressive force before the sleeve is heated up, when the sleeve heats up it expands, creating even more compressive force. This is the reason that you need a little bit of clearance to relieve the pre-compression stress on the sleeves. Do this, and you wont have a single problem.

I'd just like to add, unless you are detonating you dont need a block guard. The sleeves do wobble at higher boost levels, but not enough to blow a headgasket.

 

When a blockguard is install like Boosted Hybrid says it should be taken to the machine shop and the block rehoned?
I am think and review my option of doing a blockguard in a spare D16Y8 motor w/ .20 over pistons and rods.

Also has anyone whom has used or is using a blockguard have any issues w/ overheating issues?

Thanks
Eric

 

Try checking out this thread:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=412298

 

Thats a nice block guard i would use it but i would sink it in a 1/4 to 1/2 inch.just more water contact area. just my opinion.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you install a blockguard it should SLIP into place. You shouldnt have to tap it in at all. If it doesnt drop in with minimal clearance, then sand it down till it does. Tapping it in is placing the stock sleeves under a compressive stress before the engine is up to full heat. The metal of the sleeves, and the metal of the block guard are different. They expand at different rates. If you have the sleeves in compressive force before the sleeve is heated up, when the sleeve heats up it expands, creating even more compressive force. This is the reason that you need a little bit of clearance to relieve the pre-compression stress on the sleeves. Do this, and you wont have a single problem.

I'd just like to add, unless you are detonating you dont need a block guard. The sleeves do wobble at higher boost levels, but not enough to blow a headgasket. </TD></TR></TABLE>

OK, I just installed a GE block guard into my friends LS block that still on the engine stand and what I noticed was on the other end of the BG, it's kind of loose and the other end it's a little tight. It makes me worry that it may start coming loose on me later on when the car is running. What do you guys think about this? I think I'm going to call GE tomorrow and ask them about this. It's a little loose on the other end that I can push it with my finger. What I mean by this is on the #4 cylinder side is loose, and #1 cylinder side is a little tight that I have to tap it with rubber mallet.

 

Screw the blockguard all together. If you want a low cost alternative to sleeving, have a machine shop pin your block. you don't have to worry about the massive coolant restriction, and it's relitively cheap to have done. Just make sure the machine shop that does it is reputable. Just my .02

 

If its tight on the one side, sand it down a bit. A dremel with a nice sanding bit is what I have used in the past. It needs to slip into place with absolutely no tapping it in. If the blockguard is a tiny bit loose, this is ok. Once the engine is warmed up the sleeves will expand into the blockguard, and everything will tighten up.

 

**WARNING** DUMB QUESTION AHEAD!


if the BG is loose...wouldn't it drop down too far into the coolant passage?

 

thats not a dumb question, I was just about to ask the same thing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by genop &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats not a dumb question, I was just about to ask the same thing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i think its suppose to fit nicely in (not too loose so it wond fall in) but not be so tight to the point where you have to force it in. correct me if im wrong.

 

Way to install something with force for everyone dropping the hammer on the BG. They must suck pretty bad, st00pid uses them in almost all his builds. Granted he isnt God so dont go do everthing he does, but his stuff is working well . . . oh yeah on stock sleeves. at all the haters.