to blockguard or not to blockguard
I've used blockguards in both my D16Y8, my B18C, and my B20B - worked like a charm. I've pushed 1.8 bar (on the track) through my little D16Y8 with stock sleeves and my Toyota/B16A piston/rod package - sleeves are fine. And i've pushed well over 1 bar of boost daily on my B18C and B20B blocks. Just make sure you get the cylinders bore'n'honed after careful and proper installation of the blockguard.
blockguards =
People here are saying that you only need them if your engine detonates. What if you have a perfectly tuned engine, and then one day your engine starts detonating without you knowing it? I'd rather have the security, wouldn't you? And its utter BS that the blockguard causes overheating. I've never had a heating problem with the 3 engines i've used blockguards in. As long as they are installed right, and don't block any water passageways holes that are on your headgasket, I don't see the problem in using them.
blockguards =
People here are saying that you only need them if your engine detonates. What if you have a perfectly tuned engine, and then one day your engine starts detonating without you knowing it? I'd rather have the security, wouldn't you? And its utter BS that the blockguard causes overheating. I've never had a heating problem with the 3 engines i've used blockguards in. As long as they are installed right, and don't block any water passageways holes that are on your headgasket, I don't see the problem in using them.
The engine doesnt suddenly start to detonate. I see no reasons why this would happen, unless the user tanks up with low octane gas. The block guard is not going to protect you from detonation then.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 337
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From: Smells of Burnt Rubber and about 1,320 Feet
We designed the block saver for a couple of reasons one being a cheap insurance policy. Second, for saving your block and keeping the destruction within the sleeve.
Sometimes you will get Block savers that will fit tight, loose on one end and tight on the other or not at all. Honda blocks are cast, therefore the tolerances are a little loose. The Blocksaver was designed from one block there for those were the tolerances we had to go off of. Since everyblock is a little different some filing may be required to get the correct fit on your inparticular block.
Sometimes in certain cases your sleeves may take the shape of an egg but that is due to trying to fit a too small of block saver into the water passage area without any prior filing to ensure proper fitment.
Heat Spots may have occured on past models of block savers or cooling problems. we tried to avoid this but sometimes the case will arise.
we have a newly redesigned block saver that has better cooling passages and minimizes the length of surface area touching the sleeve rather now it is several small areas to ensure better stability and much better cooling.
Hope this helps you out as to any questions you had regarding the block Saver if you have any othe rquestions you may call us direct at 909-272-2150
Oh yah you do not need to machine it in or weld it in. Just check tolerances and do some minor filing. good Luck
Sometimes you will get Block savers that will fit tight, loose on one end and tight on the other or not at all. Honda blocks are cast, therefore the tolerances are a little loose. The Blocksaver was designed from one block there for those were the tolerances we had to go off of. Since everyblock is a little different some filing may be required to get the correct fit on your inparticular block.
Sometimes in certain cases your sleeves may take the shape of an egg but that is due to trying to fit a too small of block saver into the water passage area without any prior filing to ensure proper fitment.
Heat Spots may have occured on past models of block savers or cooling problems. we tried to avoid this but sometimes the case will arise.
we have a newly redesigned block saver that has better cooling passages and minimizes the length of surface area touching the sleeve rather now it is several small areas to ensure better stability and much better cooling.
Hope this helps you out as to any questions you had regarding the block Saver if you have any othe rquestions you may call us direct at 909-272-2150
Oh yah you do not need to machine it in or weld it in. Just check tolerances and do some minor filing. good Luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTGEKiller »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Golden Eagle Products Suck, Just like there Sleeves!
Don't recommend GE Products. They don't last and are knock off's. hahahaha</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats not even close to the topic of this thread... why did you post that
Don't recommend GE Products. They don't last and are knock off's. hahahaha</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats not even close to the topic of this thread... why did you post that
I also had an str block guard in my ls vtec built turbo. luckly after about 1000 miles of having it in there i decided to build the head and we caught the problem. it also egg shaped # 2 and #3 cylinders. we took the block bored it out .20 over and it works fine.
15 posts and already causing $#!+....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTGEKiller »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Golden Eagle Products Suck, Just like there Sleeves!
Don't recommend GE Products. They don't last and are knock off's. hahahaha</TD></TR></TABLE>
show some proof before mouthing off.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTGEKiller »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Golden Eagle Products Suck, Just like there Sleeves!
Don't recommend GE Products. They don't last and are knock off's. hahahaha</TD></TR></TABLE>
show some proof before mouthing off.
Here's some pics of GE block guard:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D
Modified by boostedb20vtec at 2:56 AM 5/5/2003
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D
Modified by boostedb20vtec at 2:56 AM 5/5/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MotorMatrix.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">none of them work. you didnt post the right link.its too short</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK... I think the pictures are now fix. Sorry about that.
OK... I think the pictures are now fix. Sorry about that.
I'll throw my 2 cents in on the issue...
While blockguards should have some benefit, I would hardly consider this an alternative to sleeving a block. If people are looking to push aroun 300whp, just forget the blockguard, there are countless people who don't use them and have had success. For people who are looking to make 400+whp, just do yourself a favor now and get your block sleeved. I firmly believe that all a blockguard will do is keep the water jacket from getting pushed out far, the real problem is the sleeve's strength. If you get any detonation at a high boost level the blockguard won't save you.
-Mike
While blockguards should have some benefit, I would hardly consider this an alternative to sleeving a block. If people are looking to push aroun 300whp, just forget the blockguard, there are countless people who don't use them and have had success. For people who are looking to make 400+whp, just do yourself a favor now and get your block sleeved. I firmly believe that all a blockguard will do is keep the water jacket from getting pushed out far, the real problem is the sleeve's strength. If you get any detonation at a high boost level the blockguard won't save you.
-Mike
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbopanda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What if you have a perfectly tuned engine, and then one day your engine starts detonating without you knowing it? I'd rather have the security, wouldn't you? </TD></TR></TABLE>
A perfectlytuned engine shouldn't detonate...otherwise it wouldn't be perfectly tuned ...would it?
A perfectlytuned engine shouldn't detonate...otherwise it wouldn't be perfectly tuned ...would it?
FWIW I threw in an Inlinepro Blockguard(which appears to be VERY similar to the GE one pictured earlier) while my head was off for my new pistons. I just basically added it for a little added insurance, no other reason. I plan on making around 400whp after tuning with Hondata.
Mark
Mark
Has anyone here "studded" their sleeves ala. TOO? For those who don't know what I'm talking about...it's drilling holes in the block and tapping them, threading studs through that just touch the outside of the cylinder sleeves and then using some metal epoxy over the outside of the studs just for safety. Does this do a good job of bracing the sleeves? It seems that it could go either way, since the contact area is VERY small. I think Bryson with the ZC crx in colorado is doing this to his motor...
I'm considering studding (maybe blockgaurd, but reconsiderin) on my d16z6
I'm considering studding (maybe blockgaurd, but reconsiderin) on my d16z6
When i do a block guard on any car i check for fitment and i always do a quick hone after wards jsut incase it is slightly eggshaped. It may not do anything its jsut my routine. ive built a few blocks that ran 11s with a block guard with as far as i kow are still running today with no problems. I normally use the STR or the Nuforms.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ion_four »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Has anyone here "studded" their sleeves ala. TOO? For those who don't know what I'm talking about...it's drilling holes in the block and tapping them, threading studs through that just touch the outside of the cylinder sleeves and then using some metal epoxy over the outside of the studs just for safety. Does this do a good job of bracing the sleeves? It seems that it could go either way, since the contact area is VERY small. I think Bryson with the ZC crx in colorado is doing this to his motor...
I'm considering studding (maybe blockgaurd, but reconsiderin) on my d16z6</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did it.

I haven't boosted any yet (only 75 miles on the engine so far), but we'll see. Others here have done it with no probs.
Sonny
I'm considering studding (maybe blockgaurd, but reconsiderin) on my d16z6</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did it.


I haven't boosted any yet (only 75 miles on the engine so far), but we'll see. Others here have done it with no probs.
Sonny



