pillow ball mounts or new stock rubber mounts
im ordering my koni yellows today and will be installing them soon after they come in and when i do it im gonna do the energy suspension bushing kit and was thinking that at the same time i should replace my 231k old stock upper mounts and was wondering if there is really any benefit to pillow ball mounts over the stock rubber mounts
well im sure even replacing the 231k mounts with brand new rubber mounts would show a difference but comparing apples to apples is a pillow ball mount noticably better than a new stock mount?
well im sure even replacing the 231k mounts with brand new rubber mounts would show a difference but comparing apples to apples is a pillow ball mount noticably better than a new stock mount?
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Last time I checked, Integras don't use the shock to locate the suspension, so I have no idea what good an ultra-stiff upper mount would do, regardless of intended use.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Last time I checked, Integras don't use the shock to locate the suspension, so I have no idea what good an ultra-stiff upper mount would do, regardless of intended use.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ditto. Obviously you want the top of the shock well located but this is a non-critical location since the top mount only locates the shock and has nothing to do with geometry or suspension motion. Since the car is not for much street use the lack of compliance effect on ride harshness won't matter much but I'd think you might just put in a fresh mounting rubber or urethane and spend your pillow ball money elsewhere on the car where it would improve performance.
Ditto. Obviously you want the top of the shock well located but this is a non-critical location since the top mount only locates the shock and has nothing to do with geometry or suspension motion. Since the car is not for much street use the lack of compliance effect on ride harshness won't matter much but I'd think you might just put in a fresh mounting rubber or urethane and spend your pillow ball money elsewhere on the car where it would improve performance.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda318dx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where can you get urathane inserts??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Energy or prothane i think...... they just replace the rubber upper mount.
Energy or prothane i think...... they just replace the rubber upper mount.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeremyL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wondering if there is really any benefit to pillow ball mounts over the stock rubber mounts</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes.
Less compliance = More control
Yes.
Less compliance = More control
FWIW, Mugen does not recommend poly bushings or a pillowball mount for their suspension systems. The N0 and N1 both come with replacement hard rubber bushings instead.
Supposedly, ITR upper mount bushings are harder than the poly bushings sold via ES and Prothane. Not that I can tell a difference, I went from metal pillowballs to ITR upper mounts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FWIW, Mugen does not recommend poly bushings or a pillowball mount for their suspension systems. The N0 and N1 both come with replacement hard rubber bushings instead.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Also KONI technically will void the warranty on a street shock if you use shock bushings urethane as well. A really good shock especially for street use will appreciate the slightly more compliance of the a rubber bushing as the urethan will typically trnasfeer and not isolate some of the road frequencies and harmonics that really aren't important for handling (lots of medium and high speed, low amplitude motion) and the shock valving will fo i'ts best to damp it althouhgh it is not really necessary, thereby risking prematurelyt wearing the shock. Lots of cheap shocks with sleepy valving come from the factory with pretty colored urethan bushings but they tend to not be aware enough to even sense those frequencies. On the otherhand, the durometer hardness ratings of urethan bushings now have become much more developed and some urethane now can be inot far from what the rubber bushings are so some of this concern is not as big a deal as it used to be. My own street car has pretty fresh rubber shock mounts and I save the urethane for the racecar that gets little mileage and wear in the grand scheme of things.
So it makes sense that Mugen would rather see you on rubber, especially for street use.
Also KONI technically will void the warranty on a street shock if you use shock bushings urethane as well. A really good shock especially for street use will appreciate the slightly more compliance of the a rubber bushing as the urethan will typically trnasfeer and not isolate some of the road frequencies and harmonics that really aren't important for handling (lots of medium and high speed, low amplitude motion) and the shock valving will fo i'ts best to damp it althouhgh it is not really necessary, thereby risking prematurelyt wearing the shock. Lots of cheap shocks with sleepy valving come from the factory with pretty colored urethan bushings but they tend to not be aware enough to even sense those frequencies. On the otherhand, the durometer hardness ratings of urethan bushings now have become much more developed and some urethane now can be inot far from what the rubber bushings are so some of this concern is not as big a deal as it used to be. My own street car has pretty fresh rubber shock mounts and I save the urethane for the racecar that gets little mileage and wear in the grand scheme of things.
So it makes sense that Mugen would rather see you on rubber, especially for street use.
no, it's 7 for front, and 17 rear. those are the little rubber bushings. i'm impressed by the price... i will be getting them when my sus gets redone one day.
but what about the bushing that sits in the cup, #11 on the front? anyone know if those are harder rubber on itrs?
jeff
but what about the bushing that sits in the cup, #11 on the front? anyone know if those are harder rubber on itrs?
jeff
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