Suspension Done!!! (for the most part...easy stuff left)
So this project turned out much more than I thought it would be. I ended up doing:
Replacing bushings with Energy Suspension (Front) and Prothane (Rear)
Repalced Front lower Ball Joints
Replaced Tie Rod Ends
Installed ST Rear Sway Bar (22mm)
Installed Tein SS Coilovers
Installed Front Strut Bar
and what's left:
Install Lower rear Tie bar
Install Upper rear strut bar (the one I had didn't fit right)
Now the question everyone is probably wondering....how does it ride? Well, I test drove it right now at 2am so it's not the best results....PLUS it's pouring rain outside. I will say i can feel the road SOOO much better. I feel in control....even though I can't fly onto/off on ramps, I can definately feel the car's rigidness now. Steering is much more stiff (thanks to the new tie rod ends), and I can feel a lot of the bumps on the road (not as bad as what I thought it would be from reading other people's opinions of bushings and coilovers). Overall, I'm not sure yet if I think it was woth all this effort. I'm sure I'll know once I actually get to drive it on a dry day.
Replacing bushings with Energy Suspension (Front) and Prothane (Rear)
Repalced Front lower Ball Joints
Replaced Tie Rod Ends
Installed ST Rear Sway Bar (22mm)
Installed Tein SS Coilovers
Installed Front Strut Bar
and what's left:
Install Lower rear Tie bar
Install Upper rear strut bar (the one I had didn't fit right)
Now the question everyone is probably wondering....how does it ride? Well, I test drove it right now at 2am so it's not the best results....PLUS it's pouring rain outside. I will say i can feel the road SOOO much better. I feel in control....even though I can't fly onto/off on ramps, I can definately feel the car's rigidness now. Steering is much more stiff (thanks to the new tie rod ends), and I can feel a lot of the bumps on the road (not as bad as what I thought it would be from reading other people's opinions of bushings and coilovers). Overall, I'm not sure yet if I think it was woth all this effort. I'm sure I'll know once I actually get to drive it on a dry day.
Front Spring rate:
6/336
SC060-01250
Rear Spring Rate:
5/280
SG050-01250
Spring rate adjustable Range:
Front: Max/Min (kgf/mm-lbs/in)
+2.0 112 ~ -2.0 -112
Rear: Max/Min (kgf/mm-lbs/in)
+2.0 112 ~ -2.0 -112
6/336
SC060-01250
Rear Spring Rate:
5/280
SG050-01250
Spring rate adjustable Range:
Front: Max/Min (kgf/mm-lbs/in)
+2.0 112 ~ -2.0 -112
Rear: Max/Min (kgf/mm-lbs/in)
+2.0 112 ~ -2.0 -112
what exactly is the rear tie bar? I was under the impression it was the sway bar, but from your install it's something completely different. Please inform me and what it's use is. thanks
what exactly is the rear tie bar? I was under the impression it was the sway bar, but from your install it's something completely different. Please inform me and what it's use is. thanks
im gettin ready to do some of that same **** in a few days or so. How hard was the energy suspension? did you get the master kit? was it hard? how much was your sway bar too! looks nice thou, good work!
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Install Upper rear strut bar (the one I had didn't fit right)
yeah you will find that too be a problem with the rear bars you get they seemingly arent long enough is that the prob you had? all the generic bars sold on ebay the "end bolts" arent long enough try a hardware store for longer ones and or if a local auto store sells bar go threw them and see if you can find a longer bolt for the ends.
Man, this project was the biggest pain the a$$ ever. But that was mainly because I had parts that were rusted, parts that were worn down, parts that broke trying to take off...etc.
Removing the bushings are like seriously NOT WORTH trying yourself. I spend over an hour trying to take ONE of the bushings out and finally realized I don't want to spend 20+ hours trying to take out bushings when a shop can do it in an hour. That's what I did. Overall, I'm glad I did it myself since a shop probably wouldn't have told me parts that were going bad (ball joints) etc and I did it myself and KNOW i did eveything right.
My sway bar was $120 I believe. I can't remember since I bought it a while back but it was really easy to install and I feel a great deal of difference.
Removing the bushings are like seriously NOT WORTH trying yourself. I spend over an hour trying to take ONE of the bushings out and finally realized I don't want to spend 20+ hours trying to take out bushings when a shop can do it in an hour. That's what I did. Overall, I'm glad I did it myself since a shop probably wouldn't have told me parts that were going bad (ball joints) etc and I did it myself and KNOW i did eveything right.
My sway bar was $120 I believe. I can't remember since I bought it a while back but it was really easy to install and I feel a great deal of difference.
yup...that's it. Make sure you realize that it doesn't include bushings for the rear though. You got two sheets with bushings on it right? I guess ES doesn't make rear bughings for our accords. (that's if you have a 5th gen). I don't know about other gens.
thanks for the info. i got a friend to help with the pressing out of the bushings! charge me next to nothing! how much did the shop charge?
[Modified by ratherbewalking, 10:28 PM 12/17/2002]
[Modified by ratherbewalking, 10:28 PM 12/17/2002]
Awesome..having hookups is always nice. I had the local NAPA do it for me. He charged me $55 for it (since it almost took him an hour to press them out and press the prothane bushings for the rear in).
For the front, I had the two on the lower control arm, and then the two at the top of the upper control arm.
For the rear, I had four pressed out for the lower control arms, and then one for the upper control arm.
So I guess a total of 18.
For the rear, I had four pressed out for the lower control arms, and then one for the upper control arm.
So I guess a total of 18.
Awesome..having hookups is always nice. I had the local NAPA do it for me. He charged me $55 for it (since it almost took him an hour to press them out and press the prothane bushings for the rear in).
I did the 'burning' thing but still, AFTER that, you still gotta get the outter metal shell out. Those things are like welded in there.
Anyway, I just didn't see it worth stinkin up the neighborhood (since I live in a condo), gettin dizzy off of burnt rubber, and trying to pound out a metal sleeve without ruining the inside of the arm.
Anyway, I just didn't see it worth stinkin up the neighborhood (since I live in a condo), gettin dizzy off of burnt rubber, and trying to pound out a metal sleeve without ruining the inside of the arm.
That metal sucks the same friend I was helping do his ened up cutting it with some air saw he had for his impact crazy stuff. Overall the install seems like a biatch to me that I am not looking foward too. Which is why the kit has been siting for like a year.
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