DIY header collector - how's it look?
http://www.imagestation.com/mypictur...&id=4243430047
I got some mandrel "U"-bends from JCWhitney and did a shitload of cutting, welding & grinding to get what you see. It's obviously not a show-piece, but I'm not worried about it being pretty - except for on the inside where the pipes merge. That's the one spot where it actually IS pretty, but I didn't get the pics uploaded yet.
[Modified by 94gsr, 9:07 PM 12/15/2002]
I got some mandrel "U"-bends from JCWhitney and did a shitload of cutting, welding & grinding to get what you see. It's obviously not a show-piece, but I'm not worried about it being pretty - except for on the inside where the pipes merge. That's the one spot where it actually IS pretty, but I didn't get the pics uploaded yet.
[Modified by 94gsr, 9:07 PM 12/15/2002]
Looks nice. Welds are a bit rough, but function over fasion right?
Are the welds smooth on the inside? If they are rough like on the outside, id try to find a way to smooth them down.
Looks nice though.
How long did it take? How much did it cost?
-Nick-
Are the welds smooth on the inside? If they are rough like on the outside, id try to find a way to smooth them down.
Looks nice though.
How long did it take? How much did it cost?
-Nick-
Well it LOOKS pretty good. I hope it gets good results, it looks like you spent quite a bit of time on it. I don't know much about exhaust flow but it looks a little long? Any reason for this..... torque?
My welding skills have pretty much been self-taught & I've only got about ten hours of experience, but they're getting better.
The length is to help broaden the torque curve & produce more torque before the peak.
Total cost, excluding gas & wire for the welder, was about $25 for the piping. Total time involved was probably around twelve hours at the most.
The insides of the welds & the merges are as smooth as a baby's ***.
[Modified by 94gsr, 7:42 AM 12/16/2002]
The length is to help broaden the torque curve & produce more torque before the peak.
Total cost, excluding gas & wire for the welder, was about $25 for the piping. Total time involved was probably around twelve hours at the most.
The insides of the welds & the merges are as smooth as a baby's ***.
[Modified by 94gsr, 7:42 AM 12/16/2002]
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how long it take you to do that ?? and how'd you figure out angles and how big and whewre to cut etcc ? im tryin to do my own merge collector etcc.
and to think you could have bought a Flowmaster Pulsetech collector and be done!!!!!
Your 4-2-1 merge looks an aweful like the HyTech merge...looks like a copy...
how long it take you to do that ?? and how'd you figure out angles and how big and whewre to cut etcc ? im tryin to do my own merge collector etcc.
As for the angles, turbulence is created when flowing air is forced to bend at more than a 10° angle. I just cut pieces out of U-bends to get near that 10° for minimal turbulence & welded things up. It's really a trial-and-error type thing. You just have to start into it & "feel" your way through. The cuts are all straight cuts, nothing complicated there, you just have to make sure that your cut is actually straight, and that things line up properly. If you would like me to help you with your collector, just IM me.
[Modified by 94gsr, 8:40 PM 12/26/2002]
Congrats on the work, your atleast ahead of me! I've yet to learn the welding/cutting aspect, but know what I want.
BTW, Hy-Tech was not the first to use the 4-2-1 merge style they use. So don't feel bad if everyone thinks it is a copy.
John @ Hy-Tech and Dave @ SMSP both stirred my brain with ideas. If I make a header to what I want, will everyone think it is a copy? Or I can send the specs to either builder and have them do it.
One, I don't have the money.
Two, mine would be a ugly duckling compared to the quality both shops turn out.
Three, creating/building you "masterpiece" is the greatest teaching tool there is.
Ever think what the salt lakesters went through when they needed something?
They built it themselves. Some failed, BADLY! Some did ok, some learned, and some improved, trying again.
Vic Edelbrock Sr. ring a bell? They didn't have the nice computers back then to figure flow ratings and other whatnots. They went with gut instincts. Some worked, alot failed. Learn from your mistakes.
ALWAYS LEARNING!
BTW, Hy-Tech was not the first to use the 4-2-1 merge style they use. So don't feel bad if everyone thinks it is a copy.
John @ Hy-Tech and Dave @ SMSP both stirred my brain with ideas. If I make a header to what I want, will everyone think it is a copy? Or I can send the specs to either builder and have them do it.
One, I don't have the money.
Two, mine would be a ugly duckling compared to the quality both shops turn out.
Three, creating/building you "masterpiece" is the greatest teaching tool there is.
Ever think what the salt lakesters went through when they needed something?
They built it themselves. Some failed, BADLY! Some did ok, some learned, and some improved, trying again.
Vic Edelbrock Sr. ring a bell? They didn't have the nice computers back then to figure flow ratings and other whatnots. They went with gut instincts. Some worked, alot failed. Learn from your mistakes.
ALWAYS LEARNING!
No offense to the fab, but what about the design? The fact that it was made doesn't mean anything if it's based on no data which is proven to work.
I keeps seeing this sort of thing here, someone makes a header and everyone congratulates them on a nice looking part, like that's the end of it. What's the point of making one unless:
1. You had to make one to fit a special setup.
2. You need a header tuned to a "non-standard" rpm range.
3. You have a new design which is better then anything out there.
4. You can make yourself it cheaper than buying one.
Which one does this header fit?
It just reminds me of someone taking great care to make square pistons. Nice workmanship perhaps, but what's the point?
I keeps seeing this sort of thing here, someone makes a header and everyone congratulates them on a nice looking part, like that's the end of it. What's the point of making one unless:
1. You had to make one to fit a special setup.
2. You need a header tuned to a "non-standard" rpm range.
3. You have a new design which is better then anything out there.
4. You can make yourself it cheaper than buying one.
Which one does this header fit?
It just reminds me of someone taking great care to make square pistons. Nice workmanship perhaps, but what's the point?
Congrats on the work, your atleast ahead of me! I've yet to learn the welding/cutting aspect, but know what I want.
BTW, Hy-Tech was not the first to use the 4-2-1 merge style they use. So don't feel bad if everyone thinks it is a copy.
John @ Hy-Tech and Dave @ SMSP both stirred my brain with ideas. If I make a header to what I want, will everyone think it is a copy? Or I can send the specs to either builder and have them do it.
One, I don't have the money.
Two, mine would be a ugly duckling compared to the quality both shops turn out.
Three, creating/building you "masterpiece" is the greatest teaching tool there is.
Ever think what the salt lakesters went through when they needed something?
They built it themselves. Some failed, BADLY! Some did ok, some learned, and some improved, trying again.
Vic Edelbrock Sr. ring a bell? They didn't have the nice computers back then to figure flow ratings and other whatnots. They went with gut instincts. Some worked, alot failed. Learn from your mistakes.
ALWAYS LEARNING!
BTW, Hy-Tech was not the first to use the 4-2-1 merge style they use. So don't feel bad if everyone thinks it is a copy.
John @ Hy-Tech and Dave @ SMSP both stirred my brain with ideas. If I make a header to what I want, will everyone think it is a copy? Or I can send the specs to either builder and have them do it.
One, I don't have the money.
Two, mine would be a ugly duckling compared to the quality both shops turn out.
Three, creating/building you "masterpiece" is the greatest teaching tool there is.
Ever think what the salt lakesters went through when they needed something?
They built it themselves. Some failed, BADLY! Some did ok, some learned, and some improved, trying again.
Vic Edelbrock Sr. ring a bell? They didn't have the nice computers back then to figure flow ratings and other whatnots. They went with gut instincts. Some worked, alot failed. Learn from your mistakes.
ALWAYS LEARNING!
Austin - who was trying to be nice
Make your own decision:

kb58:
1. The stock collector for the ITR header is garbage IMO, and I wanted a tri-y with long secondaries to improve low-rpm performance. So this did need to be made special.
2. If you make your own collector, you can tune the header to whatever rpm range you desire - a "standard rpm range" doesn't cut it for me if there's more power to be had from tuning to a different rpm range, (as there usually is). If you don't like the outcome, you can make another one to different specs for a different rpm range.
3. The design is not new, but current, or even old designs can be manipulated to indeed be "better than anything out there".
4. You would be lucky to purchase a long tri-y collector like this for less than $500. Total cost for me was under $50, taking into account the gas & wire for welding & the bits for grinding & cutting.
The ultimate point is to manipulate your torque curve and realize the full potential of the header, in whatever the desired rpm range is.
Austin:
Point taken. I saw the Hy-Tech piece when the original pics were first posted by John quite some time ago, and it piqued my curiosity. The design was new to me so I started researching & asking questions about it - i.e., why the long primaries, and the long & seemingly small secondaries. The knowledge that I acquired about exhaust flow through a conduit, (many thanks to Dave & M.D.!), led me to make what you see. I definitely would not claim the design, or idea for the design, to be my own. However, the specs are my own, as I have no idea what specs are used for any other headers.
[Modified by 94gsr, 11:58 AM 12/27/2002]
1. The stock collector for the ITR header is garbage IMO, and I wanted a tri-y with long secondaries to improve low-rpm performance. So this did need to be made special.
2. If you make your own collector, you can tune the header to whatever rpm range you desire - a "standard rpm range" doesn't cut it for me if there's more power to be had from tuning to a different rpm range, (as there usually is). If you don't like the outcome, you can make another one to different specs for a different rpm range.
3. The design is not new, but current, or even old designs can be manipulated to indeed be "better than anything out there".
4. You would be lucky to purchase a long tri-y collector like this for less than $500. Total cost for me was under $50, taking into account the gas & wire for welding & the bits for grinding & cutting.
The ultimate point is to manipulate your torque curve and realize the full potential of the header, in whatever the desired rpm range is.
Austin:
Point taken. I saw the Hy-Tech piece when the original pics were first posted by John quite some time ago, and it piqued my curiosity. The design was new to me so I started researching & asking questions about it - i.e., why the long primaries, and the long & seemingly small secondaries. The knowledge that I acquired about exhaust flow through a conduit, (many thanks to Dave & M.D.!), led me to make what you see. I definitely would not claim the design, or idea for the design, to be my own. However, the specs are my own, as I have no idea what specs are used for any other headers.
[Modified by 94gsr, 11:58 AM 12/27/2002]
The only people that I have seen use the longer primary was HyTech, SMSP(after HyTech), and the new Comptech
That's cool. I was just wondering if you knew where you were going with it, and had done your research. I realized my post could have gone across as harsh but thanks for the polite explanation.



