Hi guys. I am currently in the process of building up a d16a6 for a daily driver turbo application.
I am expecting to get about 200-225hp to the wheels.
In addition to completely rebuilding the bottom end (hone sleeves, eagle connecting rods and forged pistons) I was also contemplating using a block guard. My friend uses one on his ls integra made by STR and says he has no problems with cooling etc.
But I have heard others say that it is not necessary, that most pressure on the cylinder wall is placed half way up the cylinder not at the top where the block guard is. Also some say that the block guard causes hot spots at the top of the cylinder which can lead to detonation. Still others say that posting the cylinders is the way to go.
Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

My blockguard IS creating a cooling issue. I had to run out to buy a thick Koyo radiator, a 160-degree thermo, and run nearly 100% pure water and RedLine WaterWetter in order for my temperatures to stay about where they were when I didn't have the blockguard.

If for a daily driver in a mild climate, then OK. If you're in a hot place like TX and you road-race... forget it.

 

I'm not positive but when you use a sleeve kit such as Darton I don't think you can use a block guard. The darton sleeves have a type of black guard built in at the top.

 

What type of block guard are you using?

 

since your building the block why dont you just get it sleeved ?

 

Anyone care to elaboarate on the differences between blockguards and sleeving? Prices, benefits, disadvantages, etc.

 

Earl knows his stuff!

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=329715

Regards,
BigMoose

 

Don't want to sleeve the block. Car will be a daily driver. Sleeving cost too much, and from what I understand it also hampers cooling. The ATR block guard is a piece of metal (some kind of alloy, aluminum?) that gets tapped into the block between the block and the acutal cylindars, which on a honda float. The ATR block guard has larger coolant passages than the nuformz block guard and from what I hear coolant restrictions is not a problem. The block guards job is to reduce the travel of the floating cylinder walls. Anyone care to elaborate?

 

ok, here is the deal. If you are looking to roughly double your hp, i can't see any way you can do it reliably without getting it sleeved. Now, if you are going to be cheap, yes, you can use the blockguard. Just install it BEFORE you get the block bored and honed (i hope your planning to do that). Reason being because when you "tap" in the guard, it slightly deforms the tops of the cylinders and changes piston to cyl. wall clearances. Please, for the sake of your engine (and ypur pocketbook) dont do a cheap build. Ive personnaly been in your place and made very expensive mistakes. LEARN FROM ME!! If you dont do it right, dont bother at all.

 

doesn't sleeving restrict coolant around the cylinders, raising the engine temp?

 

Maybe a little but not as much as a block guard... I personally don't like them, I would rather run the motor with stock sleeves and no block guard then have one... If you sleeve the block which is what i would do for any super high compression or boosted applications I would just go with Golden Eagle.... http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/sleeves.htm Have fun...

 

I believe that Viren is having a special on sleeving right now. $700 for GE.

 

I agree with ur friend. I have a STR blockguard in my car and my engine temp is where it always was. Look at my sig. I'm having 0 problems with cooling (stock radiator). If ur concerned u can throw in some water wetter and you should be fine. Just make sure that u install it properly when and if u do get one.

 

Considering that neither the block nor the cooling system was actually designed for wicking away as much heat as you'll be generating in the chamber, it's all a moot point IMO. A blockguard will solidify (for the most part) the deck of the block, which theoretically will allow higher cylinder pressure without losing cylinder seal. Now listen to this, because here comes the important part: a small amount of movement in the cylinder bores will not break anything other than the head gasket seal. That's right, if/when the cylinders squirm around a bit on an open deck Honda motor, it's going to kill the gasket seal before anything else. Why? Because the gasket is incapable of being resilient to movement while retaining seal, but the bottom end assembly can generally flex quite a bit before permanent damage occurs.

My point is that a blockgaurd might potentially save a gasket or two, but it won't appreciably increase the life span of anything else. Rods and blocks can and do actually stretch, bend and compress quite a bit during normal operation; they are designed this way and a little movement will not hurt them permanently. It's called resilience, and is something any good automotive alloy is adept at. On the other hand, adding the blockguard will restrict coolant flow where it's most needed, and given the relatively small water jackets your average Honda block already has, is definitely not a good thing.

IMO, just run a 2mm head gasket and leave it at that. All this motor needs, aside from some tough rods and pistons, is a little less compression to meet your power goals (along with a good turbo of course). The blockguard is an overhyped peice of metal that can actually add stress to the top end, and let's face it, Honda knew what they were doing when they designed that block with an open deck. It's plenty strong for power levels much higher than your goal, so unless the stock sleeves can't handle the power, there's no reason to even bother with block prep. And if they can't, it's new sleeves you need to be thinking about, because no blockguard is going to protect weak sleeves from breaking. Just my long 02 cents, peace.

 

Guys, thanks you very much for the input.
Now I've got to step up and make the call.