I just finished fabricating my own set of traction bars that are similiar to the z10 bars for my hatch... total cost to me comes to under $60 and a whole day in my garage.. i just finished the project at around 10 pm and took it out for a spin, and i must say, its like night and day.. steering is more responsive and hwyspeeds are more exciting.. But best of all, no more WHEEL HOP... just wheel spin..

anyways, tommorrow i'll be hittin the tracks to really test out the upgrade weather permitting... i've also go pics of the install, just need to upload to the net.. i'll also post my results as well if i get a chance to run..

 

sweet i wanna see these...

 

yeah I wanna know and see too.

 

i hope you used differnt radius rod mount points on the crossmember, id like to see pics.

z10 mount points are dangerous

 

humm, why are they dangerous?

 

well, i just got back from the track.. my best time was 13.5 @ 103.3 mph w/ 2.1 60ft on falken azenis.. weather was perfect, a bit chilly, but perfect for the cars to run in.. Not only that, I got a total of 27 runs within 4 1/2 hours of TnT, best of all it only costed $15 to run.. my ET's were all over the board, from a 13.5 up to a 16.7... Trap speeds ranged from 95 up to 103 mph..

back to the traction bars.. my 1st launch was pretty good, there was very minimal wheel hop, perhaps a split second or so.. 1st run of the day, i netted a 13.9@101.1 w/ a 2.1 60ft. On the2nd run, the dredded wheel hop monster emerged and i hit a 14.6, so i decided to check out the traction bars... Low and behold, the jam nuts came loose and so I had to readust the bars and tighten the nuts..

After a few more runs, I continued checking the nuts to see if they were coming loose and to my suspicion they were!!.. And in the process of constantly readjusting and tightening the nuts and radius rod tension, I accidently over tightened the rods to the point that the front part of the wheels started bulging inward and had been the culpret of MAJOR wheel hop for about 5 runs...

So after we figured that was the culprit, we AGAIN readjusted the rods to zero tension and gave it one turn again and retightened the jam juts.. Only then, did my wheel hop issues subside to a lesser degree. All day, I had launching problems.. I could never dump the clutch, and had to constantly ride out 1st and part of 2nd gear or launch slowly until the car got moving. My 60 ft times today are very similiar to previous times at the track. I dont know what's the problem, maybe my design has a minor flaw or something, or I just dont know how to set the rod's tension properly to achieve zero wheel hop. I should also mention that My camber is a bit noticable as well and is going to be taken care of as soon as possible. Its probably also attributing to my wheel hop problems as well.

As for the pics of the rods and install, anyone want to host the pics?? I can email them to u for that purpose... Shoot, wish i could host them myself, but i'm too dam busy etc... but illl keep trying... i'll keep u eager guys who wanna see the pics posted...

 

the reason the z10 bars are dangerous is becuase the geometry is so far off. I starte an article about this and i havent had time to finish it but its basically about proper suspension geometry, something that NONE of the 92+ kits are offerieng. Its so easy and simple it makes no sense to me why they arent doing this. If someone would jsut bug me and ask me to write the article i would do it, so email me if you want to see it!!!

BTW ill host your pics if you want

 

write ur article and post it or email it to me, I wann know so i can make improvements to my next set i'm planning on making very soon... I will email u the pics tommorrow, its late here and i need to go to sleep....

 

when you say geometry, are you referring to optimum for road racing/autox (let's say) or strip racing? I'd wager that the two are fairly different, and that the z10's are designed for drag racing.

 

it doesnt matter what the application is.

I was the designer of the z10 arms, so trust me i know what they were meant for

its not a matter of what the application was originally meant for as suspension gemoetry is suspension geomtery and there are simple rules which should not be broken. Both the Comp Engineering and z10 bars break these rules, and im not sure why. I learned about proper suspension geometry from the off-road desert race guys, they KNOW how to build suspensions, pulling 20 inches of travel, bump steer free.

 

I'm very confused...you designed them.

 

he also designed their block girdle...

 

what is confusing? I started z10 when working with my former boss, before i became very unhappy working there, and left.

everything they sell was my design. After leaving the only innovation was to sell the crossmembers made out of 4$ worth of cromoly for 900$. How brilliant.

 

PLEASE PLEASE WRITE IT! email it to me, or post on ht.com. i would really like to read it.

 

Hey FFgeoff,
I remember reading your Z10 traction bar not too long ago. Care to do a write up again?
jason phan

 

FFGeoff...the confusion was that I did not know you left the company...It just sounded like you were saying, "Yea I designed them but they suck." But it's clear now. Thanks.

 

i would like to see a write up as welll...

 

geoff do it or i will paint your truck shane yellow

 

check out the bars in my sig. Jimfab.com
Im gonna be testing out the prototype bars for the integra here very shortly.

art

 

On Jimfab.com...

"Not recommended for street use."

Why not Art?

 

say it with me, DISCLAIMER.

 

*With Art..."DISCLAMER"


Stupid laws.

 

that guy can fabricate !!

jimfab makes good stuff, for sure

 

That is nice of you to say, coming from the designer of the Z10 traction bars.

 

i like his crossmember design for the CRX more than mine. Its much cleaner and simpler. KISS, it works very well in this case.

I dont like his radius arms but i just saw EARLy prototypes im sure if he can come up with that crossmember he can figure something even better out too.